Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^

Your big valves helping or hurting?

Are you using pods or an air box?

Apexi pods and hurting spool helping top end. Before the latest mods it's a pretty normal figure 400kw on 98 for a nicely built 26 with stock valves always thought something may have been holding it back considering the amount of head work iv had done.

"Clearly" shoot 4?? :)

Iv been considering returning to stock airbox to till I noticed one of my plastic turbo to afm pipes completely chewed up by a hungry possum in the shed wasn't fn happy.. If I get time in the next few months I'll return it to stock and re test id prefer the stock look.

Unless you are opening the ports to 90% of the valve head ratio don't bother with bigger than +1.0mm exhaust valves. The bigger valve head can also hurt flow in a small bore. Moreso a problem on intake though.

Yep close about 4300 on pump but I think around 3800 on e85. I still believe my +2mm Exhuast valves effect spool a bit... Not only was it a smallish outlet on the manifolds but there could have been a nasty square edge in the mix aswell I really should've matched it up earlier but got lazy...

hot damn. your spool is comparatively very good, imo. what cams? dumps? boost control info? timing?

How do you work that out exactly? :huh:

You - 175km/h @ 7000rpm (4th)

RPMGTR - 230km/h @ 8000rpm (4th)

You are doing 150km/h @ 6k, 175km/h @ 7k... So roughly 200km/h you are 8k

Meaning yours is the shorter ratio... So of course yours appears more responsive.

Ben's dyno using 5th, mines 4th gear.

Ben's getting 28.7 km/1000rpm. Std is 33.5 5th and 25.5 4th. Half way between.

Ben tends to use 5th gear as it give less gear box loss, 5th is 1:1 ratio.

Unusual he starts the dyno at 3000 rpm

Ben's dyno using 5th, mines 4th gear.

Ben's getting 28.7 km/1000rpm. Std is 33.5 5th and 25.5 4th. Half way between.

Ben tends to use 5th gear as it give less gear box loss, 5th is 1:1 ratio.

Unusual he starts the dyno at 3000 rpm

isnt the idea to run the dyno in 1:1?

Depending which gear you run it will give u a higher/lower torque readout...

Hp should still be the same yea?

Though I guess depending what gear the car is in it will effect how much load is on the engine causing the curve to move left/right relative to load

Depending which gear you run it will give u a higher/lower torque readout...

Hp should still be the same yea?

Though I guess depending what gear the car is in it will effect how much load is on the engine causing the curve to move left/right relative to load

No gear ratio will only change the tractive effort or the actual load through the load cell. In a perfect world the gear ratio shouldn't make a difference in measured hp or only be slightly different due to the differing thrust loading through the gearbox.

In reality even the good dynos show a slight difference between say 3rd and 4th gear probly due to unaccounted for acceleration rates.

The ramp rate is really the only thing that should influence how a turbocharged cars power delivery is plotted. Slower ramp rate gives the turbocharger longer to spool hence moving the graph to the left.

No gear ratio will only change the tractive effort or the actual load through the load cell. In a perfect world the gear ratio shouldn't make a difference in measured hp or only be slightly different due to the differing thrust loading through the gearbox.

In reality even the good dynos show a slight difference between say 3rd and 4th gear probly due to unaccounted for acceleration rates.

The ramp rate is really the only thing that should influence how a turbocharged cars power delivery is plotted. Slower ramp rate gives the turbocharger longer to spool hence moving the graph to the left.

In my opinion, exactly.

Dyno's are set up to give a fixed road speed increase with time, e.g. 12 kph/sec.

If you use a taller gear the dyno stills holds the wheel speed to 12 kph/sec, giving the dyno sweep longer time from start to red line.

This then gives the turbo's more time to spool. Should give a quicker spool up , not by time but by road speed, which is what the reads.

I prefer dyno runs in rpm not road speed. This shows what the motor is doing more acurately than the unknown gearing of the car.

People on this thread do not even knowin what gear Ben's run was done.To me it seems 5th with a 4.1:1 diff. Only way to get 230 kph at 8000rpm.

He does use 4th sometimes,and 5th soetimes. He tuned my R32 GTR many years ago, great job too.

Ben's dyno using 5th, mines 4th gear.

Ben's getting 28.7 km/1000rpm. Std is 33.5 5th and 25.5 4th. Half way between.

Ben tends to use 5th gear as it give less gear box loss, 5th is 1:1 ratio.

Unusual he starts the dyno at 3000 rpm

Since when is 5th gear 1:1 ratio ?

4th is 1:1 , 5th is 0.752

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...