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Thought I'd have a look and add my info car is currently on the build again bigger turbo and intercooler

But here is some figures when finally complete and

On Dyno will post sheets of new power.

Currently 427kw revs taken to 8800.

Cracked r34 gtt 25det neo

Fully forged from ground up.

Valves seats rings arp head bolts, studs

Wiseco forgiez

Tomei poncams stage 2

Rc 720cc injectors Greddy intake

Hypertune 90mm throttle body

4 inch intake piping all round

SARd external gate

Custome sinco top mount mani

ARE surge pot fuel pump wallbro x 2

Nismo engine mounts to stop torque bend ( still engine pulls hard lol)

Hks t04s 1.0 exhaust wheel (nice change at 4000rpm no valve noise means no cops lol)

Apexi avcr

Apexi el2 gauges oil pressure,temp water And boost

Apexi rsm

3 1/4 inch exhaust with cat back

Arc cold air intake box

Spitfire coilpacks

Upgrade vct module It's awesome keeping vct trust me

Basicly it there's heaps of other things but that's basic core stuff.

427kw atw at 1.4 bar boost

On Bp 98 ultimate

Oh and vipec ecu and os giken twin plate clutch

I havent found a cat im happy with yet. Nobody has tried the more expensive ones.

Interested in this also

hmmm... what cats have you tried Jez?

i'm leaning towards a CES or Ballistic cat.... CES is just a modified Magnaflow (which i take it to mean they've just put flanges on to bolt up to Skylines) but being CES i'm thinking $$$

Cyifly. Can u post up ur dyno sheet please. Very impressive

My poncams as per receipt:

260 degrees 9.15mm intake

260 degrees 9.15mm exhaust

Off engineering receipt:

Was machined 20 thou over by memory

List:

Modify pistons to neo spec

Repair can tunnels

Supply retainers and locks

Machine crank and fit sleeve

Supply and fit valve guides

Hot tank engine

Port head to race

Supply valve springs

Fit oversize inserts

Supply inlet and exhaust valves

Bore and hone block

Modify oiling

Supply rb25 crank shaft

Drill and tap oil gallery's

Manufacture seats

Deck block

Manufacture vernier gear

Assemble Aline pistons

Engine balance race bearings

Arp head studs

Seals

N1 oil pump

Welsh plugs

Was all done at Jhh engineering in Woodbridge Queensland. Def will DVs when I find it lol got all the papers stacked with tax receipts lol...

But I will definitely will post the new Dyno sheet when it comes to finished hoping to make around 600kw on this next run but fingers crossed the old girl doesn't decide to play hard to get

In terms of the engine mechanically and engineering wise no money at all was spared Jhh was told that if ya have to call me it means it is suppose to be done so The instruction was to jhh to engineer the tuffest 25det they could without stroked kits.

Just to be different ad everyone does rb26/30/28 etc.

Car itself has tein suspension with set damper rebound and adjustable height. Set up for track.

Upgraded dbhh slotted rotors front and back

Endless track series 2 pads

Full exhaust 3 1/4 inch

Obviously general shit like wheels front kit ad side skirts with twin pipe exhaust to keep cops away.

Not sure If I can upload with iPhone photos but if you have an iPhone I can send ya pic.

Car only now has 21000 genuine kms on it do tried to keep as stock looking as possible to be somewhat of a sleeper and non cop b8 skyline

Edited by Cyifly

Yea that's why turbo coming off intercooler gate and being reassessed for the figures the guy that is tuning my car is aiming for starts in a few weeks just hoping it won't be too pocket damaging

Been reading through this thread together with nearly all the others, yes its my favourite passtime, together with my 33; and this is the conclusion that I have drawn, I think.

Hub dynos read differently to 2 wheel dynos that read differently to 4 wheel dynos.

Every dyno lies because it is used as a form advertising because everyone wants bragging rights and to say mines bigger than yours.

But if you look at the real purpose of any dyno it is to tune the car, so it really doesnt matter what it reads from a power and torque value (within reason of course), what matters is that the expert using it can modify the ecu setting to maximise and optimise engine efficiency. If this is correct then why is there so much weight given to power and torque figures if that's NOT what dynos are good at.

The other thing I notice is that 10 - 15 years ago it was difficult to achieve dyno power and torque figures of today due to a number of enhancements over time mostly the tuners ability and knowledge and the tools they now have namely engine management systems. What's to say that this evolving technology can not push engine packages that have also be known to make 400kw up to 450.

My conclusion is dynos are for tuning, and if you really want street cred, respect, or bragging rights or whatever they call it, really you should be posting up times because thats all that matters either quarter mile or track.

See if you build a car you need to have an objective and we are blessed with skylines because they are so versitile. If you want a 10 sec daily who cares what power it has what matters is that it runs 10s. If you want street/track car to run 1 min laps then that is what is important.

I look at that video of that gtt couple of pages back, tell you the truth I would give a sh%t what power that was making, if I could drive that thing like that driver I would have the greatest day of my life..hat off to you mate.

Lastly, (sorry for the rant)

if you had a true 400awkw Gtr weighing 1600kg what quarter mile time and top speed should it run, sorry rephrase that, what time have people run.

402kw 10.81et 131.36mph. As per 2wd dyno dynamics dyno.

I bet if you ran that on the Unigroup dyno it would make 402rwkw

Like mark (MLR) said, I would love to see a few of the other big hp cars on the Unigroup dyno next weekend.

Maybe bring their old dyno graph, compare it to a correct one, then throw it out

I don't really think we can refer to them as correct or incorrect unless they are incorrectly calibrated. Dynos are a comparative tuning tool. They only need to be consistent to be accurate.

It doesn't matter if they are out by 5%, 10% or even 20%, as long as they are consistently out, the tuner will tune the car exactly the same.

It's like if I'm building an engine. I use a very expensive set of micrometers, bore gauges and other instruments to work out clearances and other things. But say I whipped out my $250 chinese copy set from a decade ago, I measure a journal with the mitutoyo set and get 1.8880 and get 1.8901 on the bearing but with the chinese set I measure the journal at 1.8884 and the bearing at 1.8905. Is the chinese set any less accurate than the mitutoyo set? Not for this type of comparative measurement it's not. I still get 0.0021" clearance. If I was relying on that chinese set to give me an accurate shaft size for something and wasn't comparing it to something for clearance....then it would be inaccurate.

I bet if you ran that on the Unigroup dyno it would make 402rwkw

I know it would. I've been on both back to back. The difference? Less than a kw.

The power? Nowhere near 400, so I'm outta here!

I don't really think we can refer to them as correct or incorrect unless they are incorrectly calibrated. Dynos are a comparative tuning tool. They only need to be consistent to be accurate.

Yay I got to take my palm off my face for a post, and actually smile. This forum unfortunately has swollen nappy loads of posts blocking the view of otherwise useful or interesting dyno related posts due to people having small minds on the topic.

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