Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just though id punch in some info about something to do with oil filters; ill try to explain it:

-Now when i start my car, the knocks would jump to 91-95. I though this was just the starter motor noise but just to check i disconnected my coil packs and cranked the car, yes it did repeat the 90ish knocks without the car starting so i was pretty happy that it wasnt a bad startup tune.

-I have been having an issue with drift oil filters from autobarn with my oil light staying on for 2ish seconds and pressre the same (on startup, even warm start)

This was noticed by creatd ms and myself but i though it was just the oil taking a second to pump around.

-about a week ago i changed back to coopers oil filter and now there is no knock on startup (reaches 1-2max) and my oil light turns straight off in less than a second and i get full pressure.

Coincidence??? no way as it was instant fix for my issue

Conclusion: Bad oil filter or a bad batch; either way im not happy buying a filter which 'may' be bad and potentially wreck a 10k motor.

Take this not as a discredit but simply i will not be using the drift filter again, greddy/coopers/knn for me now.

BTW the oil was 8100xcess 5w40 and 300v changed at 2000km intervals

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252567-knock-vs-oil-filter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'll take notice when there's some hard evidence about this, I use a Ryco oil filter, and my pressure light goes off straight away, and pressure always reflects whether its a hot day, car's warm etc.

Same diff using Castrol EDGE 5w30 or Motul 8100 Xcess.

Might want to check if there is an anti drain back incorporated into the filter. Some do, some don't.

Getting agricultural but the same thing happens with my dirty diesel patrol with some filters. Genuine nissan are fine and have the anti drain back.

??

drift oil filters? maybe they're designed to leak oil so you can get sideways more easily and the knock is your engine rattling itself to death.

coopers filters are very good quality, keep using them.

Yeah thanks man, dont worry ill keep using coopers or maybe greddy next time for a try

10k motor? when did you get a forged build... i thought it was still a stock RB26, which is worth less than half that :cool:

Cause if it was a 10k motor, you shouldn't be having any problems or using drift filters

Aha i see so if you have a 10k motor and a crappy restrictive filter with low oil pressure then it should be ok? i mean if mine blew then i would spend 10k to rebuild it.

I use Z145A has the anti drain back valve... Slight difference on start up oil pressure registering compared to the other black Ryco filters I used previously. The part number for those excapes me now. No difference on knock noticed between the two however, always sits on 1 doesnt move until I get to about 2500rpm.

Edited by MintR33

i use a z145a too... no knock

trent uses drift filters on all his built engines... wouldn't imagine that he'd be putting a part like that on unless he thought it was a good product

Genuine Nissans filters are cheap as dirt.. why would you want to settle for anything else.

Get it directly from Nissan dealer for ~$12 a piece, get 5 in 1 visit and they'll last you a while. Probabaly the cheapest part you'll ever need to replace on the car.

I got another question on oil filters. Nissan got 2 types of oil filters that can be fitted to RB-series engine. Big oil filters and small ones. They oall have the same thread. My rb20 had a big one. And an rb25 had a small one. Small one costs more. What are the benefits of running a smaller oil filter if none ?

I always thought, that the bigger the oil filter, the more oil it can hold, the better ?

I got another question on oil filters. Nissan got 2 types of oil filters that can be fitted to RB-series engine. Big oil filters and small ones. They oall have the same thread. My rb20 had a big one. And an rb25 had a small one. Small one costs more. What are the benefits of running a smaller oil filter if none ?

I always thought, that the bigger the oil filter, the more oil it can hold, the better ?

Ive noticed this too mate, umm best way to think of it; smaller one would reach full pressure faster for startup but under full load/high rpm applications you would want a higher capacity as the smaller one would be the restriction.

i dont want to bag drift but itsjust 'one' bad experience can affect the reputation of the company to a small group of potential customers.

Rememmber: a good product; the customer will only tell 5 or so people about, whereas a bad product the customer will tell over 15.

Similar to 2 threads ive read on here about a certain trader SP and their bad customer service.

nissan genuine oil filter. 15208-h8911au

thats the large one

there is no difference between the large and small oil filters, they are just made to save space, but the small ones would build pressure up more.

I buy filters for my mates GTi-R powered N14 pulsar and my R34 and they both do the same job.

Also, large oil filters are made in thailand and the small ones are made in japan, this also reflects in the cost of them!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...