Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi roy

i just bought a new camera and it has been great , records straight to sd card

great sounds and great vision

really easy to use , has remote control and external microphone point which i use.

easy to get out of car and watch on telly or copy straight to computer.

http://www.vsport.com.au/ecommerce/?categoryID=157

this is vision from it recently, and it was setup quickly as i had bought it that day! the quality is quite a bit better again without the downgrading it for you tube.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=lf6opg6Mdt0

cheers russ

+ 1

Well worth the money.

If I have any money whatsoever left over I am buying one of these POVVO things this year.

You couldn't give me 5 GoPro's in its place, I wanted to throw that thing out the window by the end of the event!

Hey guys, anyone seen/heard/used one of these?

http://www.hoyttech.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...;Product_ID=315

You are going to need one with gyro bw - other wise all your vids will be of where the car is facing rather than where it is going.

My experience is - the more you spend, the better it is.. We have 4 x 520 TVL bullets running to a quad box. these are then recorded onto a handicam. We also have handicam mounted centre of the cage.

I have it on good authority the handicam is the only way to shoot in differing lights. ie from inside the car looking out. The bullets must be mounted in a constant light source like pressed up against the screen.

For TT this year we are putting all the footage into a 2 x channel solid state recorder (XM-DVR Pro) so it is set n forget every morning. then we can upload from CF card to hard drive every evening.

The other thing we are using is a lanc.

The current system is horn except for the duration of the tapes when in SP mode.

google PDR100, DVR1000, XM-DVR Pro, GV-D1000, FFV Mini DVR Pro. They are a good price spread of recording devices.

TT

Cheers Greg!

Russell has kindly lent me a "box" which can take 4 pencil cams, but I have 2 only. It also has an aux microphone, a lance to switch the handycam on/off.

If I use this I'll still need to but a camera, and so far I haven't been able to get any sound from it. This is the problem we had at Burnie.

The main worry for me is the amount of bloody wiring in the system, if I do eventually get it all to work it just seems SO easy to bump one lousy wire in the heat of getting a helmet or whatever, and she's all over......

I'm torn, really am......

I bought a Hoytech camera and the footage was very average and the sound is delayed. I sent it back they said it was fixed, but it was still the same. Hoytech ended up returning my money.

I now use the POV1, I purchased mine form one of the guys I race against, here is his website

http://mgr.net.au/

His name is Mark Greenham, he is very easy to deal with and has the same interest as us, going fast in racecars. Tell him Ashly Barnett gave you the contact details and he might do a bit better!

For incar footage from my Series 6 RX7 see these links. You can click watch in high quality and the click full screen.

The footage is actually beter than the you tube stuff as you have to compress it for YouTube.

The best thing about this camera is how easy it is to download and edit on your computer.

Hope this helps

ashly

Guys, anyone know if the POV1 has anything uniquely motorsport related about it?

Was looking on the web yesterday and you can pick up a DV Recorder 320gig for around $300, add to that a small mic and camer, which plug straight in, and your only around the $500 mark.

Here is the recroder,

post-194-1233876106_thumb.jpg

Sharp Cam $120

post-194-1233876373_thumb.jpg

I got a Panasonic Digi Camera DMC FX36 which has a HD vid function and with a 16GB high speed card has heaps of memory. It's pocket sized, great quality, you get a free still camera with it! with a Leica lens (no joke in a lot of applications this gives my DSLR a very good run for its money). Biggest limitation is sound, which is important, and I don't think you can hook up an external mike either. Just a thought.

You got any sample vids? Im after another compact digital camera at the moment and if it does good HD and I can use it in-car it would be great..

Guys, anyone know if the POV1 has anything uniquely motorsport related about it?

Was looking on the web yesterday and you can pick up a DV Recorder 320gig for around $300, add to that a small mic and camer, which plug straight in, and your only around the $500 mark.

Here is the recroder,

post-194-1233876106_thumb.jpg

Sharp Cam $120

post-194-1233876373_thumb.jpg

These items use a hard disk to recorder to. The first bump you hit the drive corrupts and requires a format.

using solid state memory such as CF and SD cards (which have no moving parts) overcomes this.

These items use a hard disk to recorder to. The first bump you hit the drive corrupts and requires a format.

using solid state memory such as CF and SD cards (which have no moving parts) overcomes this.

Cool thanks Tim,

I've actually found an SD version which I'm waiting on pricing for, out of the UK. It's listed as 199 pounds which is far cheaper than the POV1. No doubt the quality won't be as good, but for someone like me who just does the odd track day should be fine. Comes with a screen to review, mic, cam and recorder.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...