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Well like a few ppl on hear i put my 040 in today..

And had majore troubles getting it to the bottom of the tank (tryed to get it in possition for around 2 hrs) in the end i thought enough is enough, i had the pump straped to the cradle with a house clamp. took that of and had it right to the bottom within 5 mins.. seems to work just fine no rattles or nuthing :) lets just hope it holds up..

fingures crossed it should be fine :)

  • 1 month later...

as long as the cable is of good quality and is capable of carring the full load current of the pump u decide to use then no, not really. i used ring lugs to bolt the wire to the pump and used a stainless steel nylock nut on each terminal

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Warning: Thread resurrection!!

Just an important tip for anyone doing this;

Do not use regular heat shrink/ wire when hooking up the pump.

I just pulled out my 040 after almost 2 years (because the fuel pump fuse kept blowing). Turns out the heatshrink used on the wire joints had been dissolved by the fuel and was non existant.

Consequentially, the bare wires were shorting and blowing the fuse (potentially dangerous)

The wire i used is also looking worse for wear and brittle.

I am now trying to source some PTFE (teflon) insulated wire for the job.

  • 1 month later...

post-80628-0-29776400-1319604901_thumb.jpg

This is a picture of my 044 that I put into my r33. And works a charm. I put this picture up as I couldn't find one myself when I wanted to do it. Hope this helps and personnally I think its easier to install than a 040 with regards to placement and adding the sock.

  • 1 month later...

dunno if anyone has said this but before you disconnect the battery you should try depressurise the system buy starting the car with the fuel pump fuse removed...its the top one of the set closest to you by the battery (15 amp)

but still be careful when removing the hoses as they still squirt!! it burns pretty bad when it gets in you eye!!!!!

also once you have all the tank sealed and cover back on i would give it at least 5 mins before connecting the battery back up as there will be fuel vapor in your boot

my two cents anyway

  • 3 weeks later...

I never want to that job again.

But it works.

Also, I found it was really difficult to get the pump back in, then I adjusted the clamp around and it went straight on. If I did it again it would take half the time.

  • 4 weeks later...

So I didn't read the end of this thread... and the comment about heatshrink... bugger. I direct soldered the wires and used heatshrink, but I have the joins offset by about 2 inches from each other, so they'll never touch. It was the one thing I asked myself, whether or not heatshrink would be fine in petrol. ARGH! I'm NOT undoing it again! =-]

Also, I have some notes for others coming up... I installed a Walbro GSS432 today using this guide.

Firstly, the cradle is right up the back and you need to reach in up to your elbow to get to it. I spent a bit of time back and forth looking at this guide wondering why the pictures showed it sitting right at the hole. You need a torch to see it really. You lift it up off the bracket, then pull it towards you and out the hole. That part was actually easy after finding it!

Second bit to add? My top part had an electrical harness on the tank side that stopped me bringing the whole thing out. Once I had it off the cradle it was past the point of no return and I had to balance it there and find a cable tie to hold the plug so that I could undo it and bring the whole unit out of the boot.

post-3573-0-88124400-1326270037_thumb.jpg

I was using a Walbro GSS432, as I bought it a while back on the cheap and my pump just died overnight... no time to investigate a bigger unit. This pump is quite a bit smaller in size and in order to line it up with the fuel pipe and to retain the factory sock, I had to use a box knife to cut a raised bit off the pump's rubber perch bit that it came with. The standard perch (or whatever it was called) is on the right, and that just won't go on this unit. The sock that came with the Walbro is in the packet at the top, and it's ridiculously small and short. It won't reach anywhere near as far down as the factory sock. The factory sock fits and the new retaining washer thing holds it on quite nicely.

post-3573-0-33003400-1326270163_thumb.jpg

A closeup of my work. The instructions say to cabletie (supplied) the pump at the bottom, and with the pipe at the top done up it was rock solid and didn't budge. The rubber bit at the bottom created a tight fit vertically for the pump, and the sock and inlet of the pump stick out the hole in the bracket where the factory rubber bit sat in.

The whole lot slid very easily back into the tank, and the sock was angled perfectly down and into the tank as the factory item was.

As I said previously, I used heatshrink over my soldering, but I cut the wires offset by two inches, so they can never come in contact anyway.

Hope this helps!

post-3573-0-64260000-1326270181_thumb.jpg

Update... the sample of wire and heatshrink I put in a glass jar of unleaded petrol has done exactly what someone in this thread said it would do. It's expanded/swelled and slid down the wire. I presume my wiring has done the same thing in the fuel tank. I don't know whether the solder join bulge has stopped it from moving or not. I might experiment with that next.

To anyone else doing this, be warned! =-]

Update... the sample of wire and heatshrink I put in a glass jar of unleaded petrol has done exactly what someone in this thread said it would do. It's expanded/swelled and slid down the wire. I presume my wiring has done the same thing in the fuel tank. I don't know whether the solder join bulge has stopped it from moving or not. I might experiment with that next.

To anyone else doing this, be warned! =-]

yeh i wasnt tooooo sure how the heatshrink i used would react to petrol.

but it doesnt concern me because to create a spark you need sufficent voltage/current and it needs to be close enough to overcome the resistance of air (i think from memory is 10^8 ohms - LOTS). also you need sufficent oxygen to burn the with the fuel vapour. and finally (on mine) the lugs i are bolted on firmly with nylock nuts (i know its plastic).

as i think about it now, if you were to short circuit the cables submersed in fuel you probably would not get a spark, just the fuse would blow... perhaps try that if you want...

CAREFULLY

lol

i dont like soldering on things that vibrate. where the solder meets the copper it can create a fatigued joint over time. unlikely but happens. soldering is better for joints that do not suffer from mechanical stresses.

Agreed, I don't think it'll spark or blow up. Firstly it has nothing to short to, and then there isn't the right air/fuel ratio as you said.

I was super cautious not to have sparks around when I had the tank open, and I let the boot air out once everything was back together and before I put the battery terminal back on. (sparky spark!)

Petrol ratio with air needs to be in a fairly narrow range of values in order to ignite. If you have a 100% fuel / fuel vapour situation eg a sealed tank there will be no kaboom.. not that I'd risk it deliberately but petrol won't ignite without oxygen. That said, I also wouldn't experiment with shorting wires under petrol in your garage. Darwin award, anyone?

Tank open situation on the other hand you are mixing air and fuel vapour, sparks are bad news.

  • 2 weeks later...

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