Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

has any one got wheel alignment specs for s2 rs4s or any stag. just put $240 tyres on and dont wana scrub them out in a hurry.

any info or links would be appreciated

Front toe = zero

Rear toe = -2mm

Front camber = 1 degree negative

Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5

I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber.

Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative

My tyres were wearing perfectly evenly on these settings ( had to get the adjustablecamber bushes to acheive it).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253368-wheel-alignment/#findComment-4379342
Share on other sites

i change my mind every time i align my car (i work in a tyre shop and can do it whenever i want) trial and error. eventually ill find the sweet spot....

it would be good to see some official specs tho.

D.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253368-wheel-alignment/#findComment-4379595
Share on other sites

ive posted the factory specs a couple of times before, scanned from Jap workshop manual, they are very broad settings, nothing really useful to go off, a good wheel aligner wouldn't even bother looking at them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253368-wheel-alignment/#findComment-4380165
Share on other sites

Front toe = zero

Rear toe = -2mm

Front camber = 1 degree negative

Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5

I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber.

Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative

My tyres were wearing perfectly evenly on these settings ( had to get the adjustablecamber bushes to acheive it).

x2

but you won't get to 0.5 deg neg on the rears with eccentric bushes on a S2.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253368-wheel-alignment/#findComment-4380177
Share on other sites

ive posted the factory specs a couple of times before, scanned from Jap workshop manual, they are very broad settings, nothing really useful to go off, a good wheel aligner wouldn't even bother looking at them.
Yep I got my settings from SK's posts - although he knows a hell of a lot about RB engines he's actually a suspension specialist and in real life these settings have worked for me on my S1 Stagea.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253368-wheel-alignment/#findComment-4380346
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...