Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

second collector pic.

looks kinda average where u can see the pipes coming in overlap the actual collector pipe. paying that kinda money i'd want it to be 110% perfect

kyles collectors are better than that

You're right, I'm from the states, and Kyles manifolds are about half to one third the price of the Full race manifolds, even though they're only 2 states away from me.

My 6 boost collector looks much better than that, and I dont know why you'd want a stainless manifold anyway, the heat expansion characteristic is definately not ideal for a component like a turbo manifold that sees at much heat as it does. I think the only advantage of stainless is that they're prettier, and maybe lighter? I'm not sure about that though.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

second collector pic.

looks kinda average where u can see the pipes coming in overlap the actual collector pipe. paying that kinda money i'd want it to be 110% perfect

kyles collectors are better than that

johnsparts013mp9.th.jpgjohnsparts014ch5.th.jpgjohnsparts015qd9.th.jpgjohnsparts016fo8.th.jpg

Looking at the bottom of the 3rd pic, there is a ledge from what i can see, is that from overlap of the collector to pipe or something?

Looking at the bottom of the 3rd pic, there is a ledge from what i can see, is that from overlap of the collector to pipe or something?

LOL, u know what, im sure they will do the same shit.... there is variances in both of them...

You're right, I'm from the states, and Kyles manifolds are about half to one third the price of the Full race manifolds, even though they're only 2 states away from me.

My 6 boost collector looks much better than that, and I dont know why you'd want a stainless manifold anyway, the heat expansion characteristic is definately not ideal for a component like a turbo manifold that sees at much heat as it does. I think the only advantage of stainless is that they're prettier, and maybe lighter? I'm not sure about that though.

Actually, the full-race manifold is the heavyweight of the 2. From memory my sr 6Boost was 8kg's and my full-race mani was 10kg. The full-race does have a slightly thicker flange plate tho and provision for two gates. The full-race mani certainly does 'grow' towards my strut tower when hot.

Edited by juggernaut1
sorry to say but for that bloody price i'd want it to have stainless steel flanges, not f**king mild steal

nice design but still... 6boobs for the win!

hmmmm, 3 times the fun, 6boobs are good :D

That GT4088R vs S374 comparison is beyond suss, I've seen plots of the same car running S366 and GT4088R and the S366 was at best the same as the GT4088R but couldn't make the same power on boost. The Borg Warners are good turbos, but they aren't THAT good.

Cheers Den001, I look forward to hearing how it goes :D

I have looked at heaps of things around the place over time trying to get to the bottom of different setup options but I guess should make a habit of favouriting things so I can look back over it all. Here are a couple I know of, one shows a typical example of someone who sells Borg Warners trying in the face of fact to make out that a 1000hp Borg Warner can spool the same as a ~800hp Garrett when in fact there is a 1000rpm spool difference being called out:

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=521223

And an S366 vs GT4088R comparison - for some reason this time the images aren't coming up for me, not sure if its because I am at work this time or not but either way you can tell the gist of results from the conversation:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t...9140&page=3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...