Jump to content
SAU Community

Deciding Whether Or Not To Build A Cheap Track Car

R33_Dude

By R33_Dude,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No pics yet . Rego'd and definitely roadworthy.

I'm waiting on some money to clear from the bank (check deposit from another car sale... Could take another two days).

Plus another two guys were looking at it for the same reason and they are dead keen. It could still fall through if one of the other blokes gets in first.

Fingers crossed the money will clear and I get there first.

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I did some digging around on its history. Need some second opinions.

Has a new head on the CA18DET. The old one broke a timing belt and destroyed a pair of valves plus other damage. Has a new head with lower k's than the original head plus a new head gasket.

Has a new diff plus a few other bits and pieces. As I mentioned before it still needs a new front bumper.

This all said the bloke will part with it for $5000.

I'm not so sure now. Seems like it has had a tough life... That also said replacing the CA18 is damn easy (comparatively) and I know of three nice cheap (relatively) replacements off the top of my head.

Would anyone else be put off by the way it lost a timing belt and lost a head?

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

When the new head went on, did they fix or replace anything else?

What caused the timing belt to go?

Any proof, like receipts for the fix?

I'd certainly look into it more, which you by the sounds of it!

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

excellent mate, well done, seeme that you are not kidding yourself by thinking it wont cost you more money. dont be too worried about the timing belt issue, it happens, and as long as it was repaired correctly it will be fine, but keep in mind the age and milage of these engines. might be worth a sr20 later on down the track.

Well I am about to buy a manual S13 complete with CA18DET, a tad dirty and in need of a new front bar and some lovin' but mechanically spot on (and all stock bar a pod filter) with coilovers and new DBA gold slotted rotors. Desperately in need of some better tyres though.

In response to some people here. I am not going to be competitive in any way (at least not yet). This is a learning and fun experience.

I am not too fond of go karting no matter how fun it is - I have had a bit to do with go karts in the past. I prefer the full sized car. I don't care if I will be ridiculously slow. To restate what I said earlier I just want to have fun.

The ten thousand is my initial budget - car, basic modifications, etc. I suspect I will see this balloon out to at least double this by the end of the year. Lets not get confused between a someone wanting to build a cheap, fun car to take to club days and someone who wants to be leading the field.

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted
When the new head went on, did they fix or replace anything else?

What caused the timing belt to go?

Any proof, like receipts for the fix?

I'd certainly look into it more, which you by the sounds of it!

The timing belt snapped due to age I believe.

Well it seems the repair was done by a competent mechanic (as in a good mechanic but wouldn't take it to him myself) and included a head gasket and a low kilometre head replete with stock valves, cams, etc.

There is definite proof - it drives very well, blows no smoke, came on boost cleanly with no surges/spikes of any kind.

I don't know it just turns me off having found the car and then finding it has had major problems in the past but what would you expect for a 19 year old car that has probably been driven every day of its life and driven hard?

Its still cheap no matter how I look at it. I am paranoid of bottom end damage though even though it all looks fine. Its just the risk of something being sh!te thats turning me off....

Maybe I should just keep looking around. Maybe I should just buy it and if something screws up stick to my guns and build a strong SR20/CA18/RB20 to replace it.

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a decent choice you've made their mate. Personally I'd go for an SR, but that's just me.

Have you looked into ex-drift cars? Sometimes you can pick up half decent ones with some work done for not much money, just require a fair bit of tidying up from some dodgy modifications.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Well i am always looking around and if its a CA18DET powered S13 which needs bumper and bodywork and is very std then i would nto be too fussed if you miss it at $5,0000 as i believe you will be able to get better examples for that sort of money

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Try finding one in tasmania though. Car prices here are ridiculous sometimes - in particular for imports. :)

If you can find a similar car in similar condition either in the state or in a position to be transported here at low cost (aka spirit of tasmania), let me know!

I haven't parted with any cash yet, still waiting on that cheque to clear, and if something better came up I would give the bloke my apologies and snap that up instead.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted

my only advice would be try not to build a track/street car. i started out doing that with my skyline and it does not work. no track car is fun on the street, and when it comes time to move on it sad to see what people are willing to pay for it :down:

thats why im keeping mine and focusing more on track time

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Black_CSR
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By Black_CSR · Posted

      ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • GoHashiriya
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Kinkstaah
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • itsmeyo
      WTB R34 GTR Guard Liners

      By itsmeyo · Posted

      Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...