Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Finally got time to get up to see Chris and he confirmed my yellow plugs dangling under the seats have nothing to plug into. The anti-submarine rams are completely missing from both front seats.

"Well, there's your problem" :blush:

So my airbag fault is different from most. I reckon there wouldn't be too many others out there that started investigating a flashing airbag warning light and found out the components had been NICKED.

EDIT: deleted name, address (physical & email), phone number & identikit photo of culprit. For legal reasons. :(

  • 1 month later...

I know this is reviving an old thread...but.... I had the airbag light on. Did the key reset and it came back after a couple of days. Took it to the workshop (C-Red in Perth :thumbsup: ) and Mark chucked it on his scanner. No code came up and he reset it properly and it's been good ever since. Mark said there is a known glitch with the V/G/M 35 airbag system- something to do with a passenger side seatbelt switch.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Guys,

My airbag light was flashing and I found the solution on the net and it worked first go on my M35.

Turn the ignition to the "on" position. Watch the airbag light closely(it will be on solid) the split second it goes off(beggining to flash) turn the ignition off, count to 5. Turn back to "on" position and do the same another 2 times.

Next time you turn it to "on" position it will blink really slowly(diagnosing) Then switch off. Next time you turn it on it will be solid and then turn off completely.

hi fellas,

same thing happened to my m35 last night,just tried the above method. It worked..So far so good.Will report back a little later to see if the fix is long term .

Thanks so much for all the advice/ help we pick up on this site.

graham

  • 1 month later...

Try this Stephen... worked for my mates car (although the light just came on again).

Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 secs, and then turn off, and then start to flash.

To reset the light, you must turn the key to on, watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 secs and as soon as the airbag light turns off, turn the key to the off position (you have to turn the key to off before the airbag light starts to flash, or you must start over). You need to repeat this 5 times. Try to start the car, and hopefully the light will be reset

Thanks for this I was racking my brain trying to clear the same problem.

The golden question is - will the airbags still work!

and the more pressing question in fine print : is my insurance still valid after I bypassed a safety device. (think about it.)

and the more pressing question in fine print : is my insurance still valid after I bypassed a safety device. (think about it.)

Im not sure if the insurance question is more pressing than the safety one Chris :P

ok after looking into the seats, i dont think the non-electric seats have the rams in them.

i think the plug is just a switch to see if someone is sitting in the seat so the airbag computer knows to deploy any bags in the event of an accident.

i dont want to rip apart my nice RS seats, but it disappears into the bottom cushion

Do these cars have a model that comes without seat bags?

If they do legally you can bypass the seat bags according to the RTA in NSW.

Been there, done that a number of times while i was doing airbags for a living for 5 years.

Of course, the base model has no seat bags or electrics and I haven't seen a ram under mine either although there are plenty of wires. I agree with Duncan, getting the system out of fault so the bags deploy in an accident is much more important to me than how the insurance company will weasel out of their contract.

Of course, the base model has no seat bags or electrics and I haven't seen a ram under mine either although there are plenty of wires. I agree with Duncan, getting the system out of fault so the bags deploy in an accident is much more important to me than how the insurance company will weasel out of their contract.

RS leather optioned seats do not have air bags either... unless the safety option was also ticked by the original purchaser.

RS leather optioned seats do not have air bags either... unless the safety option was also ticked by the original purchaser.

I wish the previous owner of mine (RS with leather) wasn't so safety conscious, then I wouldn't have to go thru all this crap pinch.gif

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

Not sure if this would help - but I had the same annoying problem with my Stagea - got it reset a couple of times and then tried resetting it myself (after reading this forum) with occasional success.

Even called Chris regarding costs for new seats.

Anyhow - took it to Victoria Park Auto Care in Perth and he said something about he cut the yellow plug out from under the seat and bypassed it so it was hardwired (?), said its a common circuit problem with a number of car such as Falcons and BMWs.

It cost us $200 to repair and light had not come back on!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...