Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea i am only a rating 5. =(

anyways, do anyone here know if insurance will cover for a double din? I am thinking of installing one and got told that.. for it to be legal it has to be connected to the handbrake?

thanks

beepee

  • 2 weeks later...
Quick question, now that I have my car back after the accident, I am still covered under my current policy, right?

Call them, when my car was stolen, recovered and written off and they paid me out it was cancelled from then.

  • 2 weeks later...

ok i posted this previously in wasteland but theres actually a thread here for it... i recently bought a gtr and engine has been swapped and ive told just cars this and they said it will need to be registered with the car before they cover me..

so does this mean i have to go through regency? or is it an id check at a cop station? (where they will probably send me to regency anyway cos it s a skyline!)

no get a change of engine form put the original engine number on the form the new number and hand it in to service SA they will check the engine isn't stolen and with in 10mins of being at a counter you should be on your was with no fee to pay

rating 1, no history for 10yrs of any naughties.

Stagea, modified, 13k value $650pa premium with Just cars

thats actually quite good tangles....but it also depends on how old you are.....

  • 4 weeks later...

Not very impressed with shannons

Called up last sunday to report my accident and was assured that an assessor would be out the next day to have a look at it.

Car got towed by shannons to the workshop on the Monday. Was assured that provided I get the approval in time, I should be able to get the car fixed before the Riverland car show.

Workshop was able to price the parts and labour by the Wed, and they had the quote faxed to shannons on thursday.

Heard nothing from Shannons since I'd called them on the Sunday (poor service!) so I called up yesterday to see what was going on...

Shannons could not find the quote (aka the douche on the phone was adamant they didn't have it), so I called up the Workshop who resent the quote. I called Shannons back straight away and spoke to the consultant on the phone who confirmed it had came in straight away, and that there would be a delay of >2 weeks< before getting an assessor out there. I told the guy this was unacceptable based upon what I was told on the Sunday (and given the fact that it had already been a week). Was told he would do what he could for me. Again, no call back from any shannons rep.

Called again today. Got possibly the dumbest call centre operator who said they couldn't do anything to speed up the assessor. At this stage I was getting pretty pissed off and told him that I was unimpressed with the lack of service and requested to speak to a manager. He told me it wasn't possible since the manager was on the phone. I told him I would wait. He told me that the manager was going to be a long time. I asked him why he thought the manager would be a long time. He didn't have an answer, but came back with a weak response about how to make a complaint. I told him I didn't want to make a complaint, that I wanted to speak to his manager and that I would wait on hold.

After 15 minutes of being on hold, it turns out instead of transferring me to his manager, he transferred me to the assessors department, where I finally got to speak to someone who wasn't completely useless. She made an appointment for an assessor to go out this coming thursday, 1.5 weeks after originally placing the claim. It seems I have the same assessor that writeoff had, so I'm hoping that I don't get screwed around by their incompetence.

I think its pretty shithouse that a company that says 'they put the car first' don't even bother to pro-actively contact their customers, nor do they have an acceptable assessment time. Justcars, AAMI, SGIC and RAA all have assessors on site within 48 hours, and they're supposed to be lesser insurers than shannons.

I think I'll be getting a quote from H2P later on. Can't go to justcars (because they suck - no agreed value) and I'm seriously unimpressed with Shannons. Given the fact we generally pay $1-2k per year on our cars, doesn't that entitle us to some basic service? You know, like calling the customer and keeping them informed. I had to call back several times due to the incompetence of the people in the call centre not knowing their own procedures...

When you take this into account, as well as the dramas writeoff has had over the last year, I have to say I'm rather disillusioned with Shannons and their so called 'premium insurance'

End rant.

-D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...