Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am keen on getting some insurance.

Just wondering when you guys are listing your mods for insurance, do ya list mods that are defectable? eg. say u have an aftermarket turbo, would u need to specify what sort of turbo it is or simply say i have a turbo

I am keen on getting some insurance.

Just wondering when you guys are listing your mods for insurance, do ya list mods that are defectable? eg. say u have an aftermarket turbo, would u need to specify what sort of turbo it is or simply say i have a turbo

you dont have any?

Ok, heres a query.. I get alot of mixed reactions about shannons,

they WONT insure under 25's

nah they will i know a guy who... bla bla bla.

I want to insure my car with them, as my policy with Just Car ends in Feb. Whats the best way to get around the customer service person telling me they wont touch me (in a non sexual way)?

I have got my insurance with Shannons damo.

I am 22 since last Dec

93 R33 GTS25T - Agreed value off $20K

Monthly payments of $193.09 and Excess is only $900

So not a bad deal from where i am

I have got my insurance with Shannons damo.

I am 22 since last Dec

93 R33 GTS25T - Agreed value off $20K

Monthly payments of $193.09 and Excess is only $900

So not a bad deal from where i am

I think id rather save $50 a week and pay the extra excess. Just drive carefully. lol.

List everything! They couldn't care if it's defectable.

I'm worried about renewing my insurance! I have a heap of mods to list, plus a few other changes. Ah!

yes you can list it and should but watch that one, on page 20 mid way down of the "just cars" disclosure notice, says the car must be roadworthy? or the item most not be a contributing factor in the accident to be covered? pretty vague and I'm sure they come come back on you pretty easy , say coil overs are defecatable but you have them, bang your not covered if they get picky? cause they dont pass ADR they could just pin the blame on you? anyone had that happen yet ?

Im on just cars but its due now so good bye just cars they wont cover my car for enough dosh. lumleys seems to be the cheapest so far for us oldies...no one under 25 and no limist to the amounts of coverage value

details posted soon.

and rhys5169 is right Ive heard horror stories form mates who crash skylines,NS,WRX even commies done up they will try everything not to pay out, the insurance in this country is shit. in USA they write you a check on the spot, no worries no BS. unless your drunk or kill someone it take mere min to sort out the car. if the mod is fitting safe and listed its covered , no extra excess except stereos over 5000k. they want video proof or reciepts. not sure why the insurance here is so bad???????

some places do a credit check to come up with your worthiness for insurance?, they figure if your a bad credit risk you could also be running a scam on them? ask them if your in doubt ?

Edited by sapphiregraphics
I think id rather save $50 a week and pay the extra excess. Just drive carefully. lol.

Personal prefrence Damo

I prefer to pay the extra now and then when i am in strife with a crash then dont have to worry abt too much excess

I have got my insurance with Shannons damo.

I am 22 since last Dec

93 R33 GTS25T - Agreed value off $20K

Monthly payments of $193.09 and Excess is only $900

So not a bad deal from where i am

thats nice, i had no idea they would insure someone under 25 w/turbo car. im gonna try my luck when i turn 22 now!lol

thats nice, i had no idea they would insure someone under 25 w/turbo car. im gonna try my luck when i turn 22 now!lol

i have had that policy since april last year mate

so at that stage i was 21

yes you can list it and should but watch that one, on page 20 mid way down of the "just cars" disclosure notice, says the car must be roadworthy? or the item most not be a contributing factor in the accident to be covered? pretty vague and I'm sure they come come back on you pretty easy , say coil overs are defecatable but you have them, bang your not covered if they get picky? cause they dont pass ADR they could just pin the blame on you? anyone had that happen yet ?

ahhh, the 2 magic words that are key to any insurance or warranty claim.

Also applies to new car warranty.........if you mod a new car and it goes bang, as long as the mod wasn't a contributing factor, you're covered.

Mind you, they'll try and bluff you sometimes like the big 90/10 rort that some rip off insurance companies try to put over you, whereby they state that you're 10% at fault just for being there.......even if you were stationary and legally parked!?

Can't believe some companies still try that crap.......I suppose that while there are still suckers out there that fall for it, they'll continue to do so.

so theoretically speaking, id i slam on the brakes and go up someones backside, and write my car off, they can deem my cover invalid because coilovers and aftermarket wheels may have contributed to increasing my braking distance?

so theoretically speaking, id i slam on the brakes and go up someones backside, and write my car off, they can deem my cover invalid because coilovers and aftermarket wheels may have contributed to increasing my braking distance?

ok now what if said wheels and coilovers decreased your braking distance and the guy behind you runs up the back of you who's fault will they claim that is

possibly Damo.......if they can deem that the car was way too low and had no suspension travel to transfer weight to your front wheels hence the extra long skid or if the suspension was too stiff and wheels were airborne over a rippled surface.........me thinks you're gonna be stuffed........and pray no one is hurt either.

makes the thousands of drivers, import and otherwise, with aftermarket suspension think doesn't it? Not that it says anywhere that coilover suspension is a defectable item, as pete says below, adjustable is defectable, which covers 99% of aftermarket coils.

edited, my bad

adjustable coilovers have, and always will be defectable, but if they don't contribute to an accident, you're more than likely gonna get away with it.....I can't speak for all insurance companies but they generally share their investigators (subcontactors like me)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...