Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

123 is probably closer to around 340rwkw - but either way it's a good result. Bit better 60ft and it'll be much closer to the 11 end :down:

Interesting figure on that boost, you sure they are -9's though?

Only reason i ask is those figures seem more representative of -5's on a factory head from all the results in the RB26 thread and other threads (they are pretty much identical)

Once you spend a bit of coin on the head/motor etc then 20psi seems to deliver around 380rwkw give/take which would also correlate with your results :D

yeah you have a point i might add its a rebuilt motor freshened up with forged Mahle pistons and bearings pretty much a nissan engine with all the bolt on goodies to boot.

The -5s are they not a 350hp rated turbo i cant remember i just payed the bill and went by what i was told was the next size up. From what i have seen and heard the -5 seem alot laggier than how my gtr responds and from arond 2 yrs ago when i did it all the -9 where the imbetween of the -7 and -5 .

Unless the slight increase in cubic capacity has hit that figure easier then that may be the casw due to the slight hone and bore when the engine was rebuilt i dont know just a gtr lover who has spent shit loads on my prized possesion.

cheers,

Dave

Edited by Mr GTR-32

The -5s are rated @ 360hp turbo

The -9s are around 320hp turbo

The above are iff memory serves me correct of course haha, been a while since ive got digging. I think we might be onto something here :D

It would be approx 2.5-3 years ago the -9's were not a listed part. So it might be possible.

Also, the -7s & -9's are basically the same response. -9's just make a bit more power :)

Again not saying your result is wrong or anything as your MPH is indeed close. It's an interesting discussuion now you've said you purchased 350hp turbos? :down:

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Hi all,

Dave have sent couple of MMS of the dyno graph and timeslip to me not long ago.

So there it is, you'll need to tilt your head for the graph :/ .

post-13169-1277429048_thumb.jpg

post-13169-1277429082_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Grant

p.s. Man, this is nice curve there.

I have found my dyno graph and wsid docket grant will post these up some time when he gets them from me im hopeless at uploading pics etc haha, I defeinately have -9s R31 Nismoid checked my purchase docket as i purchased these through just jap and they are 320hp rated from Garrett.

Slightly slower Mph than i stated as it was a while ago but not far of i got a a 121.64Mph or 196Klms still good for 11 flat if i learn how to launch and go there with good tyres not crap lol.

cheers,

Dave

Thanks for checking :D

Given the dyno graph is a tad "high" by the IT correction, you have around 320-330rwkw and MPH backs that up nicely.

Good result for 18psi with those turbos!

You are also loosing 2psi towards the top end - you might want to get boost control looked into as it would make it hold even harder to redline if it didn't start falling away after around 5300rpm :miner:

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

Yeah boost drops of i am running an eboost 2 what would i need to do to hold the boost better change EBC which i dont want to do they are sp damn expensive.

Well i hope this backs up my experiences with the -9s they are awesome, next time round its head work and some -5s been told with some minor head porting and good cams they to hopefully wont be to laggy. But thats a while away for now ill stick with the sharp response of what ive got.

cheers,

Dave

What's the pre-load set to on the waste gates? Are they set to the same pressure?

Are you driving around on the same boost setting all the time?

Straight from turbosmart's website:

the maximium boost pressure (set point), the spool up rate of the turbocharger (gate pressure) and the reaction time of the controller (sensitivity).

You should be able to help level it out using the gate pressure and the sensitivity.

I'm looking at fitting a set of -5's, and I have a question on the side:

My car is already tuned at 18psi, power fc. When I install the -5's am I able to drive the car at WOT within the 10-18 psi bracket before a new tune?

I know that I should (and obviously will) get another tune, but I want to get some cams first before putting $$ into dyno. Just putting the question out there.

If it's related to airflow, instead of boost (AFM's) - Will it drive at WOT using lower boost since (my pure example) the total airflow will still be within the tuned range?

(The way I figured is as long as I stay within the table on the power fc (not too much rpm or air flow) and everything is still safe?)

Edited by GTRPowa

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

18psi from a pair of -5's and 18psi from say -9's is completely different, sure the intake system is pressurized the same as 18psi, but the -5 will be flowing alot more air than the example -9.. the engine has no idea what psi the turbos are running at, only about how much air is passing through the AFMs

Hence the other half of my question, if I run at a lower boost, whatever amount needed that I'm not going off the charts on my Air Flow resolution on my tune, then it's ok for a temporary basis?

How about you just take it easy like any other person would?

Kepe rev's below 3000-3500rpm until you have time to get it all checked correctly? Best course of action in my book :blush:

Better yet don't drive it at all :blush: is it worth the risk really ?

Also as for -5's with a built motor and some go fast bits I see no reason why 430-460AWKW can't be acheived :blush:

Edited by Nee-san
I'm not familiar with the eboost 2 - but if there are some gain settings to alter, that would likely help.

Talk to your tuner mate, they would have the best idea about it if they set it up initially :blush:

Post 18 of this thread shows my car running an eboost 2. It has rpm input so you should be able to get it to hold full boost all the way to the redline. Mine does. Like Ash says, your tuner should be able to fix this and you shouldn't need another EBC.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ds-t280020.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...