Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Other thing is the turbos are REALLY laggy.

I get 18psi by 6000rpm and power drops off completely at 22psi at 7500rpm so theres no point revving past there...

Has it been tuned? If it has I'd be finding someone else to tune it.

Has it been tuned? If it has I'd be finding someone else to tune it.

I think this is your issue as well.

Is the engine healthy i.e. done a compression test as this could be the source as well? Your tuner should have diagnosed if there was an issue from the onset.

It can be low reading all it likes. 18 psi at 6000 rpm then falls over at 7500 is the issue.

This is the dyno chart. If you could interperet it that would be great.

Sorry its not in RPM. If it helps, I've got an RB25 box and 4.08 gears.

post-89539-0-77603300-1366269500_thumb.jpg

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

R33GTR motor. 155PSI compression on all 6

2860-5 turbos

255L walbro pump

Nismo 600CC injectors

RB25 box and 3.08 diff gears

Coppermix clutch

STD r33 GTR FMIC piping

Power FC D Jectro

Greddy Profec B

8psi actuators

Is that what you need to know?

What turbos are they?
What's the rest of the setup?

Edited by TheGeniusMoose

R33GTR motor. 155PSI compression on all 6

2860-5 turbos

255L walbro pump

Nismo 600CC injectors

RB25 box and 3.08 diff gears

Coppermix clutch

STD r33 GTR FMIC piping

Power FC D Jectro

Greddy Profec B

8psi actuators

Is that what you need to know?

Also need exhaust details. You should have minimum 3.5in with metallic matrix cat. Take a look at the RB26 sticky to see what you should be getting - something is seriously wrong with your result. Injectors might run out of puff if they're not clean.

Twin 3" dumps into a 3.5 decat and 3" cat back

Also need exhaust details. You should have minimum 3.5in with metallic matrix cat. Take a look at the RB26 sticky to see what you should be getting - something is seriously wrong with your result. Injectors might run out of puff if they're not clean.

I'd have thought cam gears wind a bit more response in and not a whole heap of power. Regardless... something in my current setup is very wrong without buying new stuff I think.

Depends which way you turn the gears.

Here is a question for you rev heads.

My build comprises of the following:

Tomei Advance Spec RB26 (long engine) spec are here http://www.tomeipowered.com/BTE/index.php/2011/04/28/rb26-complete-engine-advanced-spec/

Garrett 2860R -5s (ex. housings lightly ported)

HKS actuators (set at 1 bar each)

OEM ex. Manifolds (ported)

Mines dump Pipes (Pipe diameter: 70φ)

Midori Ti front pipes (80φ diameter)

Catco Race Cat (3' diameter)

Tomei Ti Expreme cat back exhaust (3.5' diameter)

HKS fuel rail

HKS 1,000cc injectors

Tomei fuel pressure regulator

SARD Intank Fuel Pump (280ltr p/h) (in bold because I believe this will be a weak point)

Nismo Plenum

Cooling Pro I/C (100mm)

Apexi Power FC + HC

To be tuned on E85

Boost say 20psi

What power do you think I should make? and do you think that choice of -5s is appropriate?

Why have a 3 inch cat ? Make it the same size as your catback.

I thought that would be restriction....where can I get a 3.5in cat back from?

And why only 20 psi. IIRC, those Tomei engines are 8:5:1 (correct me if I'm wrong). 24 on pump fuel!

20psi was just an estimate

Advance spec is 8:4:1 (same as Tomei 2.8 Genesis) if that changes anything???

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...