Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought a Garret GT3071r and got it installed by Hills Motorsport , Castle Hill. After the car being there for around 2 days to fit the turbo and lines with a custom dump pipe made up it all went together ok and started fine . I got them to give it a tune and he said something about its bogging down hard under load whenever it wants to go near 13+ Psi . Now i had a VG30 that i used to pump around 14+ into and it drove with no drama pulled around 220RWKW. Now this turbo it runs like complete shit! when it boosts up it pulls hard then around 12 - 13psi it makes like a Popping/Gurgle sound and the car feels like ur slamming the brakes on . I drove it low throttle and then punched it around 6000rpm to 7000rpm and it didnt do the gurgle thing. Do you think he has done a lame ass tune or is there another problem? I replaced my Spark Plugs in Nov and Coil packs were rapped in insulation tape .

Mods:

S2 RB25DET

GCG Garret GT30/71R with AR.82 Housing

Acuator set at 1 BAR

Walbro Fuel Pump

SARD FPR set at idle 40Psi

Apexi SAFC Neo Pro Mode

3" Turbo Back Exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256854-new-turbo-car-runs-like-crap/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

I was under the impression that the stock ECU would hit R+R at around 12psi... which makes perfect sense!

14psi on a vg30 and 14psi on a gt3071r are 2 very different things

different turbos = different air flow rates regardless of the same boost pressure

IMHO -

get a proper fpr and a proper fuel pump.

Walbro is shit, go for Bosch 040 minimum or Bosch 044

also get a $160 Nismo adj.fuel pressure regulator and get away from the sard rising-rate regulator; wrong kind IMO for this application.

make sure you have a Z32 afm....

insulating the coilpacks isnt good enough - selleys industrial strength #401 high-temp silicone sealant all-round as a minimum, to stop wasted spark.

then tune the SAFC properly again, go elsewhere to a reputable tuner if you need to, but have a big tuning session done,

with the fuel being reliable from the Bosch/Nismo combo..... tune tune tune around your reported R&R and you'll be better, all better :(

Id recommend some more ECU mods, such as a remap.

Actually i've got a Blitz 600x300x76mm Intercooler and my AFM doesnt look normal how can i tell its got Z32 or not? i dont need an ECU it run fine on 14Psi on old turbo thats what im tryin to say

VG 30 say, flows 30lb/min of air @ 14psi

The GT3071 say, flows 50lb/min of air @ 12psi

Hence the ECU is having a spastic even with the SAFC on there.

Turbos of different sizes, flow different amounts of air @ any given PSI

Get a decent ECU as i said, and a tune.

All the power is in the ignition map which the safc can't do... This is in addition to your stock ecu having a hissy fit because its not running/responding the way its supposed to.

The car will be MUCH nicer to drive with a proper ECU and you won't have all these dumb issues.

Make sure you go to a proper tuner as well.

Decent aftermarket turbo = Decent aftermarket ecu

Don't waste your time trying to get the SAFC to run it, it's not going to run nice, i learnt that the hard way trying to get my car running on a SAFC before the microtech.

IMO SAFC's are good for the stock turbo, or a slight upgrade such as a highflow. On a 3071R your kidding yourself thinking the SAFC will run it fine.

Edited by PM-R33

i think everyone is missing one important point. shouldnt Hills Motorsport (while "tuning" it) have picked up if the afm was maxing out? or if it was hitting R&R and rectified the problem? if i show u the dyno sheet for the tune they did 4 me (charged me $600 mind u) ul piss yourself laughing. they tuned it via the hand controller and my dyno graph was bout as smooth as bart simpsons hair.

Erm... How do you rectify R&R if there is no ECU to tune??????????????????????

You cant!

The first post clearly said they have informed the owner of the bogging down issue, and this is most likely due to the stock ECU... something they can do nothing about.

This is the problem when people take cars to be tuned, the tuner often has to deal with half baked setups, does the best they can, and then people try to hammer them afterwards.

Just because you apparently have some issue, doesnt mean you need to throw basic logic out the window in this thread.

And nothing wrong with tuning via the H/C... you'll find most experienced tuners can do it easily

Dan, mate that was dead-set hilarious!!!!! Have not heard that one in years, top stuff, keep 'em coming.

Hearing stories like this poor chap, makes me so glad i bought a PFC so early on in the MOD process. Hope it all works out in the end!

your pretty much trying to bone a chick without a stiffy.

Get a popper ECU or at least a Remap and giver her the big O she deserves :P

so you want this guy to tune his car? :D

zoom_19155_royorbison.com_.jpg

srsly tho... you NEED an ecu...

safc can only bend the a/f ratio to trick the ecu into thinking its running differently.

if you were to combine it with a SITC then you would have a bit more of a hope, but by the time you f**k around with that it'll cost the same anyway...

dirtgarage has a PFC for $1500... or at least he did the other day... sell your safc and buy it

As soon as i read the threads title, i knew it had something to do with R&R.

The sensible idea would be to run a VERY low boost - around 5-7psi on your setup and save up for a power FC. You dont want to be running with RNR all the time - Think of what all the bore washing would do to your rings and your oil.

Good luck!

well i spoke to hills they said it was something to do with the spark so i tried my mates coil packs and got new plugs and does the exact same thing!

What annoys me the most is everyone said it was a direct bolt on package and i thought shit it should drive alright and dont have to worry bout the turbo shitting itself! . But i have had nothing but drama!..

First i had to get old turbo removed and new one fitted , They took all day to remove my old one and put new lines in and fit the turbo. I thought everyone was done and away i go , but then no they didnt heat wrap things so i removed and refitted everything with wrap. They told me my old heat sheilds would not fit but i managed to fit them yesterday no drama just bit of playing around .

Took the car back to get it tuned thinkin it would fix it but still came back weird but better then before , thats when they said it was my plugs , hence why i did the plug/coil as mentioned before .

It still drives like shit as soon as it wants to go above 10psi , It never did it beofre but it must be new turbo characteristics! . . I've wasted over $3500 on new turbo plus fitting/Tune and it runs worse then it did on Old turbo

I think im ready to throw it all in and sell everything and go back to stock R33 ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
×
×
  • Create New...