Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wasn't suggesting you were. We are using the same dyno's here on the east coast as the guys on the west.

To a point yes we are, the trap speed is not indicative of 280rwkw. Given even a mild variance for settings.

Further more the belief the turbo's cant make enough power for 10's (over 350rwkw) which has also been dispelled by Marko R1 in another thread

Ash,

I was saying on a stock bottom end motor, it would not be safe to push 350rwkw from SS's, not that it cannot be done.

I have left that point alone for some time now.

I am just racking my brains trying to work out why the car has 380 - 383 rwhp (two separate dynos confirm), I drove a pretty much flawless 1/4 and she only ran a 12.3 at 111 MPH (albeit the 60' at 1.82 seconds indicates the launch could have been better but I was running 18 265's and into a 24 kph headwind).

Many on here have suggested the trap speed indicates down on power, so I am trying to work out why, I thought the exposed pods and extended idling time while waiting to stage and run could have caused a reduction in power, hence me asking about the intake temps.

Can someone tell me how a CAI is installed on the 33 GTR. Looking at my front bar, where the left hand indicator is, there is a section of the plastic 'bar' type set up that is missing and a plastic channel/tube runs from there but I cannot work out where it runs to, but it definitely does not seem to outlet into the area of the engine bay where the pods are.

I will try to meet up with Rev210 to see how this can be improved BEFORE I go back to xspeed for the power tune.

Hopefully at the end of the day, once all this CAI and partition stuff is done, the car is tuned, I can run a low 11 at about 125ish MPH and all will be sorted and power matching trap speed (wishful thinking??)

the only other thing I can think of then is a boost leak - on the dyno it hits 17psi at about 4,200 and holds to about 5,000 then tapers down to 15 and holds steady.

At the drags I did not see any higher than 15.5 at all.

So if 17psi was the 283rwkw, I guess the lower PSI (possible boost leak after tune) then explain the 110MPH trap speed?

what is involved in a proper workshop boost leak test - I mean getting told 'it will take a couple of hours of looking around the pipes' does not seem to be a very scientific way of doing it - I though you blocked off the turbo intake pipes or something and then pressure test the system using some form of tool?

BOOST LEAK TEST- take off air inlet,use your silicon hose joiner that goes on the front of the turbo an put a block in it.(i use a can of bog thats the same size)now take off a vacume line-i use fuel pressure line off intake manifold,use a compressor with an small hand air blower ,slide the vac line over the end of the air blower an fill the engine with air, this will show up all the leaks you will hear the air coming out.dont need to much air.It takes a matter of 5 mins.

nah she was planted, just shifted into 4th.

60: 1.805

330 5.077

660 7.905 at 141.08kph

1000: 10.295

1/4: 12.346 at 110.02 mph or 177.06kph

Its laying over in the deep end,on a working set up your mph should be around 25mph frm half track.do my boost test leak i told you.Its possible you loosing boost an when your shifting its taking to long to regain boost.Did you watch boost gauge frm pass to pass an did it vary? i had the same problem i run 1.5 bar an make 402rwhp on a rb20 an only went 108mph,watching gauge only go almost 1 bar an took to long for boost to recover hense low mph.Did my test an had a massive crack in my silicon elbow coming off the turbo,it burnt through frm heat on exhaust manifold.

what does 'laying over in the deep end mean'? not running hard in the latter stages of the 1/4?

actually now that you mention it, I was feeling a slight dead spot after the changes, like it went off boost completely and hesitated slightly (maybe half to one second) and then came back on so maybe I do have another leak somewhere.

Does that boost leak test work for a twin? I have the HKS racing chamber kit which replaces silicon from turbos to intercooler with hard piping but in saying that something else on that side may have given. I know that I have replaced all the clamps on the intercooler hoses as the bottom left one kept letting go and they are now holding good, which means other sections may have loosened.

The last few days I have also noticed a louder slightly different from usual intake/spool noise coming from the left side when I drove with windows down in a narrow street so I could be that on the strip I cracked a pipe or something and it is only a slight leak because I was still hitting about 15 psi. I also noticed this weekend that my boost seems to be coming on a little later, maybe 500rpm or so, so that is all now making me think there is a boost leak somewhere

Edited by R33GTRKid
Can someone tell me how a CAI is installed on the 33 GTR.

Ok i cant tell you how to do a CAI on 33 GTR exactly but i'm sure its similar to a 32. Heres pics of what i did...note that the pod is enclosed in a custom airbox aswell.

I enlarged a hole that was already underneath my pod to approx 100mm in size. Fitted a rubber seal to the exposed metal. Fitted a 100mm PVC elbow joiner in the hole (Fits very snugly). Sprayed it black. Fitted some 100mm household flexible exhaust fan ducting to the pipe and then joined to inlet hole on my front bar. Gained 14kw atw on my following dyno run and also gives much better top end and obviously cooler intake temps. Have since modified my front bar inlet to a sealed duct that goes from the size of inlet hole and tapers in to 100mm but havent got pics or dynoed as yet.

Heres the pics..

post-28482-1234948428_thumb.jpg

post-28482-1234948469_thumb.jpg

post-28482-1234948355_thumb.jpg

Sorry bout the bad quality of pics. Hope that helps give you an idea of what to do.

what does 'laying over in the deep end mean'? not running hard in the latter stages of the 1/4?

actually now that you mention it, I was feeling a slight dead spot after the changes, like it went off boost completely and hesitated slightly (maybe half to one second) and then came back on so maybe I do have another leak somewhere.

Does that boost leak test work for a twin? I have the HKS racing chamber kit which replaces silicon from turbos to intercooler with hard piping but in saying that something else on that side may have given. I know that I have replaced all the clamps on the intercooler hoses as the bottom left one kept letting go and they are now holding good, which means other sections may have loosened.

The last few days I have also noticed a louder slightly different from usual intake/spool noise coming from the left side when I drove with windows down in a narrow street so I could be that on the strip I cracked a pipe or something and it is only a slight leak because I was still hitting about 15 psi. I also noticed this weekend that my boost seems to be coming on a little later, maybe 500rpm or so, so that is all now making me think there is a boost leak somewhere

Laying over means loosing power or stops making power,an for deep end yeah after 1/2 track

on ya twins take off ya pod filters an get 2 peices silicon hoses an block them wherever you can then you will be able to do this test.This will show any vac leaks which is costing you boost an power.If your engine is mapped for a certain boost setting an the engine is not seeing that desired boost you possibly will foul up ya plugs.As for your noise ya hearing it sounds a definate boost leak.let me no how you go..

32 GTR has the IAT in the plenum the 33 I believe has it in the IC piping towards the front of the car to prevent heatsoak. Unsure of its exact location.

I have mine located in the inner bumpers IC piping.

I find the std IAT sensor to be quite slow reacting. Would be nice if there was a replacement that were considerably quicker. I've looked at the GM IAT's but they are way off. :)

The GTR IAT definitely modifies ignition and from memory fuel also. Its been a while since I hooked the datalogit up to it.

Edited by TheRogue

33 gtr's have them in the same location as 32gtr's. 34's have them in the intercooler end tank. PFC's may have a fuel comp tanle, but i dont think so, stock ecu definately doesn't effect fueling, only ignition, and only over 70 deg inlet temps.

why dont you do another day down at the strip??

that way you can eliminate the head wind, and temp issue?

what does 'laying over in the deep end mean'? not running hard in the latter stages of the 1/4?

actually now that you mention it, I was feeling a slight dead spot after the changes, like it went off boost completely and hesitated slightly (maybe half to one second) and then came back on so maybe I do have another leak somewhere.

Does that boost leak test work for a twin? I have the HKS racing chamber kit which replaces silicon from turbos to intercooler with hard piping but in saying that something else on that side may have given. I know that I have replaced all the clamps on the intercooler hoses as the bottom left one kept letting go and they are now holding good, which means other sections may have loosened.

The last few days I have also noticed a louder slightly different from usual intake/spool noise coming from the left side when I drove with windows down in a narrow street so I could be that on the strip I cracked a pipe or something and it is only a slight leak because I was still hitting about 15 psi. I also noticed this weekend that my boost seems to be coming on a little later, maybe 500rpm or so, so that is all now making me think there is a boost leak somewhere

does the gtr only have a air temp sensor or did da gtst have one and if so where's it at

Only RB26's have them standard, RB25's don't and im pretty sure neither do RB20's.

I installed a universal one just after the filter, that way i have exact intake temps into the turbo, not after what the intercooler has cooled.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PRICE  : $1400 LOCATION   : NSW Central Coast FIT  :  All Nissan 350Z type Z33 and Infinity G35 Coupe. See delivery note. Hi, brand new, unused, still in the box.  ($1850.00 is what i paid ) My bad luck !!! I thought my right front  Bilstein was cactus so i bought the ST 's to replace all.  Turns out the right front is fine ( loose mounting after service  by a well known importer of Bilsteins ) So im selling the ST's. They are made by KW ( no intro needed ) . Iam on the Central Coast and im willing to meet up in Sydney metro, within reason and Newcastle.
    • Yep, yeah would need to do the flywheel although the 6 bolt NA clutch can handle a 20de if just wants to replace the stocker.
    • No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
    • Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
×
×
  • Create New...