Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your probably right, but the specs as I quoted them for the L20ET are right.

I just transfered all my L20ET bits onto an L24E with the FJ20 turbo and it's heaps different in size (rear housing)

what ecu are you using, and is she alive??

The L20ET one & Yes it is!

Don't have a choice, only L series turbo ECU I have.

As I said before L24E ones are good for landfil.

Why? you offering an alternative?? :ghost:

no, unless you want to look at a wolf3d?? it's just i have all the bits sitting here to do the L24et thing but not the time..was going to spruce up the MR30 hatch with the turbo gear and sell it.. would there have been a different ECU for the L28et engine?

FJ20's came with T28s and T3s.RB20's are T28s,and RB25s are more of a T3.

I had the stock L20ET ECU running my L24ET,and believe me,they're over fueled enough to run a 3L!!!!

can i ask how the L24et went? also with the rb20's was there any difference from red top to silver top with the turbo mounts?

can i ask how the L24et went?

Very nice round town.I had a worked 3 spd auto behind it,with VL stall.Very "zippy" for lack of a better word.Hit the loud pedal,and she was back a gear and of you'd go.Top end wasn't huge,but everything else was pretty much stock,7psi,and no intercooler,so I thought it was pretty respectable.

Got 15.1 (and 96mph?) on G-tech,but most of that was cause of the launches!

Stand on the brakes and the throttle,get 5 psi on the dial,then hop off the brakes and you're in squat heaven! :O

Very nice round town.I had a worked 3 spd auto behind it,with VL stall.Very "zippy" for lack of a better word.Hit the loud pedal,and she was back a gear and of you'd go.Top end wasn't huge,but everything else was pretty much stock,7psi,and no intercooler,so I thought it was pretty respectable.

Got 15.1 (and 96mph?) on G-tech,but most of that was cause of the launches!

Stand on the brakes and the throttle,get 5 psi on the dial,then hop off the brakes and you're in squat heaven! :)

That's pretty interesting, my L24ET will also be non intercooled but with L20ET ECU, but trying a L24E AFM and maybe throttle body, depending on which is the larger plus the T3 FJ20DET turbo and 5 speed man transmission.

Should make an interesting gadget to sell, as my MR30 hatch is a fully optioned Ti with the addition of the PNV interior, & grey dash.

Surely it will be a one off, RED with Grey/Black interior. All OZ delivered reds were brown interior.

As a matter of interest! does anyone know the differences of L series 6 cylinder engines?

Is their hieghts the same or does it increase as the capacity increases?

How far can the L20 be stretched etc, etc.

hey, i think you would find that information on one of the "Z car" websites. The yanks are really into the big "L" series motors. L28.

anyhow, my dad found a really interesting program on the net. it showed what could be done, by mixing the parts from all of the "L" seies motors. (Showed, bore, stroke, compression etc.)

Ill find it and make an attachment soon.

well, spose you drive a v8 commodore or something.

Cos only cheap wine comes in 5 litres. :)

That's well put Mick, but all these dicks have a different thing to say when the 2L is kickin the 5L's ass.

I had a 1750cc Hillman Hunter years ago and on the way back from the snow at 125mph a 5L SLE C'dore couldn't go past me. Could catch and sit on my rear in my slipstream, but when he pulled out to go past, he went backwards.

I only had 165 HP at the fly.

Re that program, PHaT in Tassie has the same I think, but I will do a google search and see what it produces.

Tah :ghost:

just got the HPI DVD #8 and theres a small bit of R30 action at the drags :aroused: mate it was brillant, dos'ent tell you much about the engine set ups but they were putting down mid 11's one got into the 10's :wassup: all running fj's, just for that part alone it was money well spent i give it 3 thumbs up...

theres a BIG (50+ cars)skyline cruise tonight hopefully as its rainning at the moment but i've been to a few in my r31 and there great!!

Is the any wreckers that anyone knows of who have interior pieces such as air vents and side mirror covers for the R30??

what colour interior do you have as i have a mr30 sitting here with baby sh%t brown interior?? side mirror covers are black ofcouse..

Re R30 Fronts!

I have come to the conclusion, after studying both for most of today, If you want to use the Tekamon bonnet with stock headlights, a modified (cut down) stock grille would have to be used, primarily due to the impossible task to remove the chrome trim from under the headlights. To keep uniformity, the cut down stock grille would have to be used.

The Tekamon front was designed to improve aerodynamics, so if the plan is to have a quick car the Tekamon front would be the obvious choice, but if show is more your go, then the stock front is probasbly best.

I will post pics in due course

Or to put another slant on it,just for discussion sake,cause I'm bored,if you stuffed an RB series 6 in there,the stock style front would be better for cooling,as it would allow more air flow to the radiator,as the bay's are pretty full with an RB in there,and hold a bit of heat.

I guess you could also say the same for a big front mounted intercooler...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...