Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your probably right, but the specs as I quoted them for the L20ET are right.

I just transfered all my L20ET bits onto an L24E with the FJ20 turbo and it's heaps different in size (rear housing)

what ecu are you using, and is she alive??

The L20ET one & Yes it is!

Don't have a choice, only L series turbo ECU I have.

As I said before L24E ones are good for landfil.

Why? you offering an alternative?? :ghost:

no, unless you want to look at a wolf3d?? it's just i have all the bits sitting here to do the L24et thing but not the time..was going to spruce up the MR30 hatch with the turbo gear and sell it.. would there have been a different ECU for the L28et engine?

FJ20's came with T28s and T3s.RB20's are T28s,and RB25s are more of a T3.

I had the stock L20ET ECU running my L24ET,and believe me,they're over fueled enough to run a 3L!!!!

can i ask how the L24et went? also with the rb20's was there any difference from red top to silver top with the turbo mounts?

can i ask how the L24et went?

Very nice round town.I had a worked 3 spd auto behind it,with VL stall.Very "zippy" for lack of a better word.Hit the loud pedal,and she was back a gear and of you'd go.Top end wasn't huge,but everything else was pretty much stock,7psi,and no intercooler,so I thought it was pretty respectable.

Got 15.1 (and 96mph?) on G-tech,but most of that was cause of the launches!

Stand on the brakes and the throttle,get 5 psi on the dial,then hop off the brakes and you're in squat heaven! :O

Very nice round town.I had a worked 3 spd auto behind it,with VL stall.Very "zippy" for lack of a better word.Hit the loud pedal,and she was back a gear and of you'd go.Top end wasn't huge,but everything else was pretty much stock,7psi,and no intercooler,so I thought it was pretty respectable.

Got 15.1 (and 96mph?) on G-tech,but most of that was cause of the launches!

Stand on the brakes and the throttle,get 5 psi on the dial,then hop off the brakes and you're in squat heaven! :)

That's pretty interesting, my L24ET will also be non intercooled but with L20ET ECU, but trying a L24E AFM and maybe throttle body, depending on which is the larger plus the T3 FJ20DET turbo and 5 speed man transmission.

Should make an interesting gadget to sell, as my MR30 hatch is a fully optioned Ti with the addition of the PNV interior, & grey dash.

Surely it will be a one off, RED with Grey/Black interior. All OZ delivered reds were brown interior.

As a matter of interest! does anyone know the differences of L series 6 cylinder engines?

Is their hieghts the same or does it increase as the capacity increases?

How far can the L20 be stretched etc, etc.

hey, i think you would find that information on one of the "Z car" websites. The yanks are really into the big "L" series motors. L28.

anyhow, my dad found a really interesting program on the net. it showed what could be done, by mixing the parts from all of the "L" seies motors. (Showed, bore, stroke, compression etc.)

Ill find it and make an attachment soon.

well, spose you drive a v8 commodore or something.

Cos only cheap wine comes in 5 litres. :)

That's well put Mick, but all these dicks have a different thing to say when the 2L is kickin the 5L's ass.

I had a 1750cc Hillman Hunter years ago and on the way back from the snow at 125mph a 5L SLE C'dore couldn't go past me. Could catch and sit on my rear in my slipstream, but when he pulled out to go past, he went backwards.

I only had 165 HP at the fly.

Re that program, PHaT in Tassie has the same I think, but I will do a google search and see what it produces.

Tah :ghost:

just got the HPI DVD #8 and theres a small bit of R30 action at the drags :aroused: mate it was brillant, dos'ent tell you much about the engine set ups but they were putting down mid 11's one got into the 10's :wassup: all running fj's, just for that part alone it was money well spent i give it 3 thumbs up...

theres a BIG (50+ cars)skyline cruise tonight hopefully as its rainning at the moment but i've been to a few in my r31 and there great!!

Is the any wreckers that anyone knows of who have interior pieces such as air vents and side mirror covers for the R30??

what colour interior do you have as i have a mr30 sitting here with baby sh%t brown interior?? side mirror covers are black ofcouse..

Re R30 Fronts!

I have come to the conclusion, after studying both for most of today, If you want to use the Tekamon bonnet with stock headlights, a modified (cut down) stock grille would have to be used, primarily due to the impossible task to remove the chrome trim from under the headlights. To keep uniformity, the cut down stock grille would have to be used.

The Tekamon front was designed to improve aerodynamics, so if the plan is to have a quick car the Tekamon front would be the obvious choice, but if show is more your go, then the stock front is probasbly best.

I will post pics in due course

Or to put another slant on it,just for discussion sake,cause I'm bored,if you stuffed an RB series 6 in there,the stock style front would be better for cooling,as it would allow more air flow to the radiator,as the bay's are pretty full with an RB in there,and hold a bit of heat.

I guess you could also say the same for a big front mounted intercooler...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...