Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok,no one discuss it with me then! :goddam:

:cheers:

Adam,I'm going to try some of that Redline Shockproof in my gearbox and diff next change...

As for the front: After much deliberation, if the new air dam is to be used, the tekamon front is the go, but if staying basically stock, I think the tekamon bonnet would look best with modified stock grille and stock headlights.

For Oil: I use 75W/90 Mobil full synthetic in both LSD & Gearbox

YES

I agree with you :D

Hmmm... 75/90... cool

I swear my diff isnt standard... on the way to a friends place in the hills last night, going up a set of very sharp hairpins on a slope, was in second, lowish revs, once I turn the front wheels a certain amount the diff sort of locks and the inside wheel chirps. I've noticed it when I've done sharp rolling u turns (little or no power on) and its chirped then too

Is that normal?

The car came from Japan with a few bits like the Watanabes, adjustable suspension, 3 inch exhaust, momo wheel, Jenesis (I think) front bar with offset plate and a huge GT wing

My car also chirps in 2nd gear quite easy.....maybe all R200 diffs are like it???

Redline oil is the way to go, it does wonders for notchy as hell toyota boxes, I'm bout to try some in my car...... I'll let you know how it goes!

Does anyone else get this problem on a semi-standard FJ20 box....... for example, coming to a red light, shift out of gear into neutral and coast up to the lights, when it comes time to go again, 1st is a mofo to engage!!! Anyone had similar problems or know what it is???

The engagement problem can be said for many makes and models as ease of selection depends entirely on the alignment of the gears at the stationary position. If it doesn't go into first easy, take second, then first and it should go in easy, second time around.

with my front i have a relativly large cooler sitting infront of the radiator, the 2 slits at the front feed air to the radiator as the fmic sits rather low (for that perposs) i also raised the bonnet using washers about 10-13mm at the hindges to get a little more air flow through the engine bay...

Hey all, has anyone in here modified their Aussie R30?

Im planning on getting extractors and a custom 2 1/2 inch. exhaust made soon.

has anyone done this? if so, how much difference did it make?

I already have a K&N panel filter in a modified air box. Also, does anyone have a manual R30 that they want to sell chaep?

I just want the necicary parts to convert my auto to manual.

and, does anyone have a R30 wagon that they are wrecking? I want the disc brake rear.

And finaly, i want some Jap spec taillights, anyone have any for sale?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...