Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Josh, you do know that the L Series was around before the L20ET don't you...

Nice pic of Sams car btw

Shane, yeah thats what I want to do, but every time I try to ask people about that they don't know wtf I'm talking about or if its even possible... As I see it, as long as the ECU worked with the standard sensors you'd just need to make a fly lead that went between the standard loom and the new ecu

Hey Josh,

I dont know of any R30's that had a live axel rear end, they were all made in Japan.and L24's have been around since the 60's i think, in 240z and 240c's.

Ohh yeah, you want yours to go better, cut a big hole in the top of your airbox. makes a notable improvement, and sounds totaly nuts....hmmmm.induction noises.

Ohh yeah, can anyone tell me what sort of diff is standard in the MR30 Ti? mine seems to spin both wheels sometimes, but mostly only single spinners. non LSD diffs can still spin both wheels in conditions cant they?

And does anyone know of the Paul Newman for sale at the moment, i saw it in the trading post, and i want to know more about it.

Also, if anyone has a manual MR30 that they re wrecking, i want a manual box, and all the gear necicary for a conversion from auto (Pedal assy. etc.) and a disk brake rear out of a hatch.

Cheers, Mick.

ohh yeah,

Josh, how much of an improvement was the exhaust? Do you still have the dodgy right angle bit at the back?

I m planning on getting exhaust and extractors done soon and want to know how good they are. Do you think it would work if i had the exhaust cross diagonaly accross the car, so it can exit at the cutout, but without the 90 degree bend? If anyone has done this, please let me know

Cheers again, Mick.

another topic: whats the off set for the r30? would it be the same as the r31 as these rims fit the r31 and i want the 17" for the r30...

The standard R30 Ti alloy rim was 15 x 6 & +25 offset

My Monza rims are 16 x 8 & +38 offset

So I would assume the 17's are x 7 and so long as the offset is +38 or less all should be cool.

Having said that, there are a lot of R30's getting around with R31 Silhouette rims on them.

yeah hi everybody i just put this new site on the net all about r30's it was a school project so yeah..... not all facts are correct but check it out and email me if u have any information i can add or comments on the site.  

www.mr30.tk

thanks Josh

Sorry Josh, but your site is full of holes.

Just a suggestion, try asking a few questions FIRST before going to print because you look awfully silly when you have to correct yourself.

I have only looked at the first 3 links and the fullboost pic is an R31 series 2 or 3, not an R30.

Your specs are out to hell.

Engine: L24E (E represents electronic fuel injection)

2393 cc SOHC 6 cyl 12 valve

Power: stock 93.4 Kw @ 5600 rpm

Torque: stock 179 Nm @ 4400 rpm

Max Weight: 1250 Kg

There has never been an L26E or L28E, in Australia to the best of my knowledge, as both Z cars were carburetted.

You forgot about L16B, L18B & L20B, all 4 cyl SOHC 8 valve engines that came out in Datsun 1600's in the mid 60's, then 180B, 200B.

There was only one R30 that came out with a live rear axle and that was the van/station wagon and I have NEVER seen one in Australia. All Australian delivered MR sedans and hatches came out with R180 open diffs, 3.9:1 ratio.

DR & HR series Japanese Imports came out with R200 LSD's 3.9:1 ratio.

Will post again later if I find anymore anomylies

yeah hi everybody i just put this new site on the net all about r30's it was a school project so yeah..... not all facts are correct but check it out and email me if u have any information i can add or comments on the site.  

www.mr30.tk

thanks Josh

Quick correction:

Both the 260 & 280Z's Aussie delivered were carbie inducted, the L28E in Japan was an L28ET, that never came to Aust, to my knowledge.

Other than that it's fairly accurate Josh, all in all not a bad project, just a pity the research wasn't more extensive.

What you may have noticed, all USA 280Z's were our 260 body.

Bing-bong....your attention please Ghostrider  :D

I hope to have it engineered and emissions tested, registered etc by end of this year, but going off road straight after rego for HKS exhaust with ext gate, Trust inlet plenum, GT3540 turbo, and 3.5 inch system, FMIC etc, etc.

Other than that, how long is a piece of string?

Have to get an MR30 Ti hatch finished as well.

But rest assured, I will do a stop, revive, survive stop n Port for at least one day and will let you know when. Probably a Friday night, leave here 3ish and be in Port about 7:30ish maybe.

You plan on doing some cruising eh! :ghost:

Hey Josh,

I dont know of any R30's that had a live axel rear end, they were all made in Japan.and L24's have been around since the 60's i think, in 240z and 240c's.

Ohh yeah, you want yours to go better, cut a big hole in the top of your airbox.  makes a notable improvement, and sounds totaly nuts....hmmmm.induction noises.

Ohh yeah, can anyone tell me what sort of diff is standard in the MR30 Ti?  mine seems to spin both wheels sometimes, but mostly only single spinners. non LSD diffs can still spin both wheels in conditions cant they?

And does anyone know of the Paul Newman for sale at the moment, i saw it in the trading post, and i want to know more about it.

Also, if anyone has a manual MR30 that they re wrecking, i want a manual box, and all the gear necicary for a conversion from auto (Pedal assy. etc.) and a disk brake rear out of a hatch.

Cheers, Mick.

Don't they WRECK them in Adelaide?????

If you want I could organise a gearbox & I have a pedal box spare.

All the ancilliary bits would come from the gearbox source.

Cheers! :ghost:

Hey Josh,

I dont know of any R30's that had a live axel rear end, they were all made in Japan.and L24's have been around since the 60's i think, in 240z and 240c's.

Ohh yeah, you want yours to go better, cut a big hole in the top of your airbox.  makes a notable improvement, and sounds totaly nuts....hmmmm.induction noises.

Ohh yeah, can anyone tell me what sort of diff is standard in the MR30 Ti?  mine seems to spin both wheels sometimes, but mostly only single spinners. non LSD diffs can still spin both wheels in conditions cant they?

And does anyone know of the Paul Newman for sale at the moment, i saw it in the trading post, and i want to know more about it.

Also, if anyone has a manual MR30 that they re wrecking, i want a manual box, and all the gear necicary for a conversion from auto (Pedal assy. etc.) and a disk brake rear out of a hatch.

Cheers, Mick.

And remember when you cut the hole in the top of the airbox, your gunna suck in sh!t loads of HOT engine bay air. Great for performance as heat KILLS HP.

You forgot about L16B, L18B & L20B, all 4 cyl SOHC 8 valve engines that came out in Datsun 1600's in the mid 60's, then 180B, 200B.

Hahaha....Ghostrider, YOU forgot the L13 and L14 that also came out in the Datsun 1600's obviously they werent called 1600's with those engines, they were called Bluebirds.

The L13, L14,L16 and L18 didn't have the "B" designation, either.

The earliest L series you will find would be a 1968 model as they were released in 1969.(Obviously they were being built before they were released)

Odd that his site is based in the netherlands too.....(or appears to be)

hole in filter box still okay tho since at least it gets some cold air through the snorkel thing. my pod is the biggest K&N thing they have and it just sits there and doesnt really get cold air from anywhere but i dont know how to do a CAI on a DR30 there isnt much room to play with and not any hole in the spoiler to feed a pipe or something up to it :P

south africa built R30 skylines.Like australia had 910.these had live axles.I also think that all short wheel base body[4 cyl SOHC had live rear].well I havnt noticed any difference removing air intakes.i assume the air filters not up to the job.as the car gets hot air from RH side AND MINE GOES HEEPS BETTER with water temps in the high 90's.

some of the Zcars,I think 280Ztarga, are efi.never seen a 260 EFI,the turbo wasnt a spec for australia.and some usa models have b/w T5.I think there is a spec difference from state to state in OZ untill 1988,also states other than NSW,VIC AND LATTER TAS had seporate distribution networks and in 1908's have different ADRS.280C have efi.I had planned to use a L20A,L24 twin carb in my holden many years ago,so i was looking at ADR complience and needed a L24E,L28E..

I hope to have it engineered and emissions tested, registered etc by end of this year, but going off road straight after rego for HKS exhaust with ext gate, Trust inlet plenum, GT3540 turbo, and 3.5 inch system, FMIC etc, etc.

Other than that, how long is a piece of string?

Have to get an MR30 Ti hatch finished as well.

But rest assured, I will do a stop, revive, survive stop n Port for at least one day and will let you know when. Probably a Friday night, leave here 3ish and be in Port about 7:30ish maybe.

You plan on doing some cruising eh! :ghost:

ooooh,sounds nice! Big HP here you come! lol

I don't know how long a piece of string is...what sort of string is it? :jk:

Friday night in Port sounds cool! Not that there's many good cars here that go out,but anyway.....

I always plan on doing some cruising,but no bastard ever want to go with me!!!

I'll be in Terrigal next sunday in the Skyline,on a cruise actually!

And just to be a pain in the arse again,that Mobil 75-90 synthetic lsd oil,was that like $74 for 5L(or maybe it was 4L) I went and loked at some today,but it didnt mention anything about being suited to lsd's.Didnt say unsuitable either,but Id like to be sure first. :P

tar

ohh yeah,  

Josh, how much of an improvement was the exhaust?  Do  you still have the dodgy right angle bit at the back?

I m planning on getting exhaust and extractors done soon and want to know how good they are.  Do you think it would work if i had the exhaust cross diagonaly accross the car, so it can exit at the cutout, but without the 90 degree bend?  If anyone has done this, please let me know

Cheers again, Mick.

yeah mick, with the exhaust i got rid of those 2 90degree turns and had a new cut out of the left hand side, and still looks good. I did not get extractors just 2 1/2 " throughout. There was a noticable power increase and there is a higher top speed. :wassup:

Thanks to everyone for your corrections, I will update the website pretty soon. Feel free to keep commenting.

Cheers

Josh

Friday night in Port sounds cool! Not that there's many good cars here that go out,but anyway.....

I always plan on doing some cruising,but no bastard ever want to go with me!!!

i was just in Port Mac up from Tas for 8 days (but not in my car), but saw r32(gunmetal with kustom plates?, an r33 and a pimpin red 200sx but thats it, cool place tho great beach and more laid back, not too hot and the chicks at roxys go off!!definately a place to stop on the way up north..

:aroused: Damn missed the thread.

newby alert!! got a HR30 sedan L20T 5sp all standard not many around need any basic improvements eg: FJ20 B'fly? 'cooler? anything? starting from scratch on this one!! :aroused: Woftam is just a club for guys who are too old to do anything else that requires energy!

yeah mick, with the exhaust i got rid of those 2 90degree turns and had a new cut out of the left hand side, and still looks good. I  did not get extractors just 2 1/2 " throughout. There was a noticable power increase and there  is a higher top speed.  :wassup:  

Thanks to everyone for your corrections, I will update the website pretty soon. Feel free to keep commenting.  

Cheers

Josh

Are you aware that the 2 x 90 degree bends and subsequently the exhaust outlet being on the driver's side, is a result of Australian only, bureaucratic bullshit about protecting the pedestrian from exhaust emissions.

The Japanese car had the exhaust outlet on the left, directly out from the silencer.

:aroused: Damn missed the thread.

newby alert!!   got a HR30 sedan L20T 5sp all standard not many around need any basic improvements eg: FJ20 B'fly? 'cooler? anything? starting from scratch on this one!! :aroused:  Woftam is just a club for guys who are too old to do anything else that requires energy!

Are you for real???????

At 90! I'm surprised you can drive a performance car at all.

My father is 89, and THE WORST god damn driver I have ever seen, holds an open license and is scared shitless driving in excess of 80 klicks.

I'm damned if I know how he manages to hussle the RTA each year in his driving test.

I suppose the theory is slow is better, as opposed to some youngen wanting to drive at the speed limit is an idiot.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...