Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by rsx84

im in the site at this very moment using a translator assist and couldnt work out why two prices, translation makes no sence, thanks.

heh, heh... thats what I`m here for! (kinda)

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so rezz can u get us some stuff?

260km cluster is at the top of my list

followed by a front bar

i got my rb20 yesterday...uses a map sensor so no need for afm after all. but she idles all over the shop something about a open loop control or sumthing...um....help!

Originally posted by rsx84

Rezz, when you say exchange it for one of thiers, is that that they produce the 260km panel?  i did notice that they are completly different gages to the ones mine has (in terms of display levels).

They outsource the the speedo "faces" from another company. They only change the face and the little speedo mechanism inside as far as I know, so you give them yours (with 25,000 odd yen)and they give you another reconditioned "260km/h" cluster in return... the work they do on the cluster is quite minimal.

Hi Guys,

Have a '81 HR30 coupe L20E & 5 speed in the garage, seems to be no demand for these old girls. Have offered it for sale complete, but no bites, next weekend will start dismantling it.

One guy has already put dibs on the taillights & window seals, car is virtually complete...anyone looking for trim pieces etc?

And what would a DR30 grill sell for? Every other R30 I have seen has some variation of a honeycomb-type grill on it, but not this very early one (chassis number low twenty thousand).

Russ

Timaru, N.Z.

[email protected]

Gus this is the dr30 updated grill

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/edit...security=NIXjvs

when you say got dibs on window seals is that the rubber around the out side as im looking for the seal between the front door window and rear window,

rsx84,

The grill is the 'prior-term' to quote babelfish/r30.co.jp, is identical to all the early DR30's.

And sorry, yes, the strips of rubber between the front door window & rear window have been claimed by StageFumer11.

99% of other parts are available, if it comes to wrecking it, I will strip what I can and put it away in the garage. The price of early RX stuff is going ballistic, I guess the demand will outstrip supply soon for R30 stuff.

hmm could be interested in a few things

nz could be a doozey for shipping tho

im still keen for a dr30 front bar despite the cost of freight and the greedy middle man

oh yeah...the 260k dash cluster, the tach goes to 9 grand as well doesnt it as opposed to the aussie ones reading to 8??

gus, always the way full into that 1% that is just not there, no worrys carn't think of any thing else that i might need, wait a minute what rims do you have? that translator still didnt help much.

stu, i think there is also one that goes to 10, not that there would be any need to see it hit 10 grand(bang)!!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...