Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im about to buy some aftermarket gauges for my r34gtt 4 gauges in total now which gauges are the most important/necessary ones for a good setup with up 290rwkw aftermarket turbo and computer efcourse!

this far ive got in mind oil temp, water temp, exhaust temp, boost.

dont hesitate to tell me what you think and why.

thanks..

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline

What you need depends on your set up, me personally i'm looking at oil press, oil temp, water temp and air/fuel, all with warning lights, i don't need a boost gauge as i have a electronic boost controller (PRofec B-spec 2) which has a reading which i never look at anyway (if I'm on boost I'm just holding on and watching where I'm going), I'm just looking for gauges that when i have a quick glance at them if the red light comes on i know to back off because there's something wrong.

none of these are important for a mild street car

the std gauges are fine

whats more important is

how its tuned

watching when it knocks

how your boost controller is setup

these by far outweighs the cost and purpose of having guages everywhere

your boost controller should have a safety cut, ie it should back off if boost flies past the target pressure, ie something fails, it shouldnt run unlimited boost

when the engine is knocking you should have a warning or alarm or some form of protection

it should be tuned so that you get good economy, it has aggressive timing (within knock limits) and is setup for average conditions

Oil temp, last Saturday driving in 46'C day [day of bushfires] my oil went to 108"C, I hated it, but slowed down and it settled on 97'C, so very necessary.

Oil pressure normally is 3.5 at 3000rpm, on this day it was more like 3.0, but I was semi reassured that at least I had useable pressure.

Exhaust temp, cos you can see how hard your turbo side is working and also know when you can turn your ignition off [so you don't always need to use your turbo timer or wait around unlit 2 minutes are up etc]

Water temp, I've never really needed an accurate figure, as long as its not increasing or overheating, then its OK, so you only need an indicator, not a real time measure.

You will drive to suit the conditions and the readings of the above three, the others are handy, but not necessarily condition dependant, more tune dependant. And if you using a PFC [and some other ECU's] then you will get a reading from them during or at the end of the trip anyway.

But I don't do any track days, mainly highway/main road only, so your use could change this.

oil/boost press

water/oil temp

I wouldnt do without my wideband afr but as above - an engine can knock even when running rich so its not foolproof.

Edited by DCIEVE
even 108 is probably fine for oil temp

yeah, could be, but who wants to get stuck on the Hume highway on a 46'C day.......lol

On a normal 30'C or less day, it sits on around 85'C, so a 20'C increase is time for some caution in my books, to be sure to be sure!

On another note, it must have frustrated the hell out of the highway patrol car that snuck out and followed me for approx. 20km into Holbrook and I wasn't speeding or hooning at all - too hot.

ok im beggining to sway to these gauges oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, exhaust temp as my electronic boost controller reads/displays boost and has a auto over boost cut limiter.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...