Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I thought I'd write up a tutorial on how I did this install, because although on alot of cars these conversion kits are plug 'n play, on my car they were anything but...

The kit I used was one of NYTSKY's (Dave) Helligkeit group buy conversion kits, but I'd assume you will have the same problems with all of them if you have the same lights as mine. My car has the projector type lights which take a h1 globe. However, they have a funky(?) design in which the globe actually sits in the front of a globe holder and this holder gets pushed into the back of the headlight assembly. The following pics show the design...

IMG_6212.jpg

IMG_6217.jpg

As you can see, there is no way that the HID kit globes are going to work in these lights without some mods - the HID globes have their wires running straight into the back of them and will not plug into the standard globe holder.

So to make it work in your lights....

*Before you begin, have both your lights out of the back of the headlight, but only do one at a time - this will allow you to make comparisons in terms of positioning etc*

Step 1: Pull out the globe holder and dissasemble. This involves removing the rubber grommet then carefully bending out the metal tabs

IMG_6213.jpg

Step 2: This was a big leap of faith, because from this point there was no turning back - if it didnt work i'd have to source new holders. All was good in the end though. Start off buy using a hobby/stanley knife to scrape all the silicone goo crap off the back of the plastic holder with the metal tabs on it. This is a messy job, but removing as much as you can will make it much easier to do the next step, which is to drill out the holder. The aim here is to make as large a hole as possible, and also to remove the metal tabs which are moulded into the plastic. I used a bench drill with the largest drill I had (not sure what size, but still left reasonably thick walls on the plastic holder) to carefully drill from the metal tab end of the holder through to the front. If you do this you will notice the metal tabs fold over on the front of the holder making it difficult to drill right through. Once I hit the metal tabs i carefully bent them out of the way, then snapped/cut them off, and finished drilling through.

IMG_6214.jpg

IMG_6215.jpg

Step 3: If you don't have a dremel/multitool this next step will be quite difficult. I used a dremel and cutting/grinding attachments to gradually increase the size of the hole and cut around the plastic that was holding the metal tabs in. I was then able to pry/snap them out.

IMG_6220.jpg

You will notice in the picture there are 3 plastic pins that locate the globe in the right place. In the first light I did I removed these, however I later realised they are important in locating the globe in the right location in the holder, so do your best to avoid damaging these... If you do, its not vital, as you will see further down.

Step 4: Increase the hole size, and removed the electric contacts and file out the holder so that your HID globe base will fit into the hole.

IMG_6224.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 5: It is at this point that you will need to test to make sure your HID globes will fit into the hole. However, on my kit, the globes were wired to a nice rubber grommet and new connections that fit into the headlight plug - neither of which would fit through the hole. This meant I had to cut the wires running to the back of the HID globes and put in some spade connectors.

IMG_6219.jpg

P1040384.jpg

Step 6:

By now, you're HID globes should slot nicely into your modified globe holder, and are ready to be fitted back into the holder and then the headlights... As I mentioned, keeping those 3 little plastic pins means that straight away the globe will fit in place nicely as seen in the first picture, hoewever if you damaged them in the drilling stage you can do what I did for the first light I did (when i didn't realise they were fairly important). I ended up using 3 o-rings around the base to make sure the globe sat in the appropriate location. The first pic below shows the O-ring approach, the second shows the neater and easier plastic pin approach...

IMG_6218.jpg

IMG_6225.jpg

Step 7:

Now you can connect the spade connectors back up, wrap them securely in electrical tape as well to make sure they are well insulated, and reassemble the holder. Make sure you orient the metal ring and the metal clip the right way, then bend the tabs back down to hold it all in place. Don't forget to put the rubber grommet on too, otherwise you will have to try and stretch it over the globe (which from experience is not easy).

IMG_6230.jpg

Step 8: Now you can put it all in the way you would if it was plug n play - connect the HID spade connectors into your existing light plugs, mount your ballasts somewhere secure ( I used some existing holes down behind the front bumper, bolted em up and used some stick on velcro between the ballast and the car frame so they were secure and didn't rattle).

Step 9: Wait until it gets dark and go test em out! Mine came up sweet, with a nice cutoff, minimal hotspots and no adjustment needed. I wouldn't say they are as good as OEM HID headlights, but they are alot better than the standard lights I used to have...

P1040385.jpg

P1040386.jpg

*Thanks to Dahtone Racing for his suggestions on how to fit these in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...id-t194275.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

What an awesome tutorial!

I've had the same HID kid sitting on a shelf in garage for the last 2 years, but due to not being the direct plug in (as advertised) I wasn't prepared to take the risk in modifying the standard setup.

Having a read of this made the install very easy... Love your work!

It'll be a novel change to finally be able to see where I'm going at night.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5054956
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My mate made H1 HID fix into the standard H3C housing for the globe, he shaped the H1 globe to fit into the H3c housing.

Then a few months later i found a HID kit for the H3c, so it was a matter of taking the H1 out and reconnecting the H3C Hid kit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5076301
Share on other sites

I thought the R32 projectors are H3C? for my 32s I was able to get actual plug and play H3C HID kits. literally just remove old globes and plug in new stuff. no need to mod anything at all. maybe look into what exact kit is needed as I'm sure there are plug and play options available that save you having to cut up the standard gear.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5076645
Share on other sites

I thought the R32 projectors are H3C? for my 32s I was able to get actual plug and play H3C HID kits. literally just remove old globes and plug in new stuff. no need to mod anything at all. maybe look into what exact kit is needed as I'm sure there are plug and play options available that save you having to cut up the standard gear.

Yeah for my H3C HID kit i paid over $700 for it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5077927
Share on other sites

My R32 Projectors definitely took the H1 globes and not H3. So I guess all R32 Projector headlights aren't the same.

Have a look at the photo's in the first post, my headlights are exactly the same, so there's obviously a few running around with H1 globes.

Of note, my Fog lights do take H3 bulbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5078119
Share on other sites

My R32 Projectors definitely took the H1 globes and not H3. So I guess all R32 Projector headlights aren't the same.

Have a look at the photo's in the first post, my headlights are exactly the same, so there's obviously a few running around with H1 globes.

Of note, my Fog lights do take H3 bulbs.

Yeah, mine are the same clips, i wanna find some spare so i don't stuff my original ones :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5079942
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I allso have the H3C-bulbs in my R32 and a H3 kit fitted allmost perfect, had a litle trubble fixing the bulb sinte the base is a litle thicket then a halogen bulb base, the piano-wire holding the bulb had to be reshaped a litle with a plier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-5162795
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

Sorry for dig out an old thread. I was trying to install the HID into a bnr32 yesterday and used the same approach as Chris did but somehow the HID bulb can't get in the headlights. It seems like the bulbs are slightly bigger than the housing? Did u guys just plug and play for the bulbs? Mine is using H1 tho.

JK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258377-r32-hid-install/#findComment-6306584
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...