Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Only update so far is today I got a winch mounted to my trailer, it looks alittle weird but now I should be able to load/unload the car onto my trailer by myself anywhere.

I'll get a battery for it tomorrow and try it out.

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

NOTE:

You may have noticed this thread has been moved.

SAU Admin have decided to run a new section for "Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups"

As such your thread is a prime example of what we wanted to house in this section.

We have left links in the sections you originally posted also to allow easy access to the threads new home.

Any issues, please feel free to pm myself or N1GTR.

Cheers Col

  • 3 weeks later...

Yeah mate did Wakefield and OP GP earlier this year with sau. Only a 1:17 around Wakefield, first ever time in the car. Was way more confident in it at OP GP but was concentrating on lines and smoothness rather than outright pace. Didn't get any laptimes there though.

nice car Ben - might have to hassle you for a visit one day.

I'm a stone throw from the crossroads, you probably go past my house everytime you go to Penrith.

good stuff mate! you must be pleased to get it out there. :P

Of course, it's no angry GTR but it serves its purpose well and that is a good time at the track on a non-existent budget (I haven't spent a cent on it for repairs or maintenance after 2 trackdays).

  • 4 weeks later...

Whooooo started first go this arvo!! My mechanic thinks ive been trying to kick it over before the fuel pump has had long enough to get some fuel to the engine so I waited an extra 30sec and it started immediately, last time it was started was 3wks ago :D

I added some roll bar padding and 2 stickers ;)

That is my only update lol

Yup the morning courses were too tight for the car, thats almost the most lock ive ever used (compared to a circuit) so had to learn how it reacted to so much lock. The rear end just had too much grip and kept pushing the car, the front tyres werent even warm let alone sticky.

Spoke to Phil Ward at Oran Park on Sunday and he said next time to remove the front sway bar and that will allow it to turn tight corners, thats what they have to do during wet races otherwise they understeer off the track.

Was a great experience though, gave me heaps more confidence in the car.

  • 3 weeks later...

Time to add some aero updates to try and make it more stable at high speeds.

Bought a sheet of 3000x1500x2mm for $170 which will be used to make an undertray as the majority of my car is completely open with no floor at all.

I'll make it in 3 sections so that the front + rear can be removed if required without having to remove the entire piece. The middle section should take no more than an hour to cut+fit because their is plenty of bracing available but the front section i'll have to add bracing so I can see that taking a few afternoons to complete.

post-1296-1253087375_thumb.jpg

Looks like we need to change suppliers if you got it for that price Ben.

what are you going to cut it with? best thing for 4/5 inch grinders are alloy blades that look like wood blades - or you can use a regular wood circular saw to cut it out.

Goodluck, be interesting to hear your results after its completed

Yup, I think coz the guy I got it from orders alot of it for his work he probably get a better buy price.

My little jigsaw will cut through it just fine, thats what I used to cut the door trims for my last gtr without any issues.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

Been ages since I updated this so....

Splurged abit of money over the past week because I attended the CircuitClub Wakefield Park trackday on Australia day however ran out of time to set it all up so will have to test it next trackday.

A set of new secondhand Yokohama Avon tyres. I use the Formula Ford size tyre but this time I grabbed 4x rear tyres which are and inch taller and wider than what i've previously used (the front tyres from a Formula Ford). They have easily 50% tread and cost me $200 for the set.

med_article_17261-img_0.jpg

RaceLogic Performance Box for all my timing needs. Haven't been able to play with it yet because I didn't realise it needed permanent power, thought it would have an internal battery so will have to get it wired into my car. It has sooo many options I get lost just even reading the manual, however just from playing with the device here at home I think the actual screen size should be larger, gonna be hard to read the numbers whilst doing 200kmh. Picked this up for $515.

PerformanceBox.jpg

Also bought a GoPro HD Motorsports. Seen this camera probably a year ago but it always had pathetic sound however from what I have read this new High Def model (1080p @ 30fps) supposedly fixes that problem along with some other new features. Comes with a handful of small connectors and mounting pads however on my first test video tonight (just to the shops n back at dusk) I still had issues getting it to sit at the angle I wanted so just need some more practice with it. I'll grab the rollbar mounting accessory and also a spare battery (2.5hrs recording time for each battery). In 720p mode it requires about 100mb per minute of video so it's quite heavy on the 16gb SDHC memory card I got for it (wanted a 32gb but nobody local had stock). All up it cost me $460 with the 16gb memory card.

Go_Pro_camera.jpg

Next was some CAM's stickers from ebay. I'm too lazy to make this stuff myself and been busy with work so it's way easier to just hand over the cash and pick it up at the post office the following day. At first glance im not even sure they will fit on my side windows haha. Total cost was about $45

cams_full_set.jpg

On my list now is a window net + fittings, a larger oil cooler and alluminium intake and also new windows to replace the scratched set I currently have.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...