Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

according to the turbo builder there is a .56 and .63 rear housing size. i'm trying to determine if i have the .63

if it's the .56 then i guess it's probably not worth the change over, as you've already pointed out. I will however seriously consider the change if i have the .63 or can get a .63

according to the turbo builder there is a .56 and .63 rear housing size. i'm trying to determine if i have the .63

if it's the .56 then i guess it's probably not worth the change over, as you've already pointed out. I will however seriously consider the change if i have the .63 or can get a .63

R33 is smaller = .56 or whatever

R34 is larger = .63 or whatever

OP6 (via search) - has always been .63.

So you know where the base is to work out backwards in this instance that R33 would be smaller than .63... ie .56

true, but i'm getting confused as previous posts indicate the R33 is .48 and the R34 can be EITHER .56 or .63 - Al previously mentioned that the 34 as TWO different rear housings.

mythbusters ahoy

GTR twin turbos are 0.48 a/r rear

so therefore a single GTS turbo would be larger, as its a big single, so 0.56 a/r rear for GTS turbo sounds about right

and 0.63 a/r for the OP6 sounds about right again - OP6 being for VG30 single turbo setup

The turbine housing A/R number is just that - a number .

The important thing is the application of the largest of the three housings (OP6 one) - which was a four cam single turbo VG30DET .

I think the best way to look at them is 2L size , 2.5L size and 3L size .

I'd say if you fitted the OP6 housing to an otherwise std R33 GTS25T you would get a noticable lag penalty because the housings passage is larger and gas speed will be slower through the turbine blades .

If you did things to pull the bottom end torque up like increased CR or better cams or porting etc the loss of low end starts to disapear .

Nissan got around it in one case by using a larger 3L engine and another by having variable cam timing on the R34GTt .

The ability to vary cam timing makes a huge difference because you can alter the valve overlap period throughout the engines rev range . With less overlap at low engine speeds you can drag the dynamic or effective compression ratio up and not have the lack of low speed torque that say the R33 version would have with the larger OP6 turbine housing .

I noticed that people are quoting differences in power output ie the std vs OP6 housing on R33s .

There would be other influences such as more sophisticated engine mamagement and cam profiles etc but from memory an R33 made 184 Kw out of the box where an R34 did 206 Kw ?

I suppose the ~ 20Kw gives a rough idea of what the potential difference would be minus the electronics and cam profile differences .

Thoughts ?

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Pity you couldn't get a better curve with your turbo tune today Daniel :)

I have an OP6 VG30 rear housing just sitting here if you really want it, but I think you might be hunting down somebody else atm :down:

Edited by MacGillaZ

hey mate, nice to meet ya ;) Andrew wasn't it? or have i got that completely wrong? :P sorry, i am shocking with names. Lots of people say that, but i really am stupidly bad with names.

i'll send ya a pm bout the OP6, keeping my options open at the moment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...