Jump to content
SAU Community

Gearbox Headache !


RBPOWA-(TJ)
 Share

Recommended Posts

Got my shift kit fitted today at a workshop i wont name for the reason of people being bias ...

now you all may of known of my gerbox problem, leaking gasket going into limp mode yada yada yada.

shift kit they said works fine but it could be better somthing about pressure, BUT its slipping real bad in reverse, so bad it couldnt even back over a change in concrete height the size of a coke bottle cap.

now they are saying the best of the worst is, its just the bands need replacing. worse it a rebuild $$$$.

if they replace the bands, the Stage 1 (valve body mod) shift kit will still be to strong for the clutch packs.

now i dont know what else is inside the gear box besides bands, clutch packs and valve body, but a reabuild is what ? changing of parts to fresh ones , or changing parts to stronger ones to now suit the valve body.

car's done 107,000km's, so rebuild is on the cards anyway, just wasnt expecting it so soon.

IDEA's ... ADVICE .. OPINIONS ... PLEASE

rebuild the box. (if need be) or source a Gearbox (GTT - GTST - GTR) and take a lucky dip at condition and do the Manual conversion.

Cheers TJ

P.S sorry about the essay was just thinking as i was typing :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

fark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just replaced my box, bought a 2nd hand one, lower km's than mine, Stage 1 shift kit, torque converter rebuilt, bands adjusted, total exercise around $1500. Feels like new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hm. . . .

another box . . . . .go manual . . .. damn this is a hard decision to make.

im gonna talk with them today now that i got the day off, damn rain !

get some $$ idea's and cost price's then sit on it for a week or 2 to work it out.

cause manual will change the whole feel of the car. would i need to find a ECU for the manual ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you specifically want an auto go Manual. I reckon your best bet would buy an R32 or R33 GTR front cut and drop the motor and gearbox straight in then sell your motor and gearbox to recoup some cash. (You might even get some nice brembos for the front also) :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did I hear Brembo???? I have been quiety looking for a nice brake upgrade, with the power mine is putting out I am finding the stock brakes are just crap!

Back on topic.... It depends on what you want the car for? If you want it sporty then go for the manual. I am kind of the other way around, I bought the manual because I have always had them and now am thinking I would rather an auto as I only drive the car to and from work and just can be bothered with a manual anymore.

Decide where your heart is with manual and auto and then go from there, if you have to rebuld the auto at $5000 then it wont be any more to go manual I'm guessing.

As as I want an auto though, I love having a sporty drive in my manual!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've got a auto for daily driving and a auto for my weekend car (stagea)

just want a manual, but in the stagea is alot of city traffic, manual is a bitch, but i wanna get on the track also. also hoping to keep it for a family car, but the MOD BUG has bitten

i dont think i'll ever make my mind up lol .

just read ALEX CIMS topic a while back about converting. heap load of parts and labour involved with the clutch cyl position, pedals, handbreak, center console sourcing. costly in the end.

rebuild, i know its a strong unit then, able to hold more power, then taking a guess with a second hand box.

to many pro's and cons for this

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just read ALEX CIMS topic a while back about converting. heap load of parts and labour involved with the clutch cyl position, pedals, handbreak, center console sourcing. costly in the end.

rebuild, i know its a strong unit then, able to hold more power, then taking a guess with a second hand box.

I convert my series 2 to a manual. It cost around $3000 for parts with centre console etc. Depends what clutch you. mine was a Jim berry at $900

I did some of the labour and paided some to do the box swap. Was another $600.

I think best option for now is grab a s/hand auto box for $200-400 and fit that. Then if you are keen, collect all the manual conversion parts over time and do the swap later.

Alex never did it, so he was only only guessing what was involved. Some of his threads are funny.

It is not that hard of a job to do with the right parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I convert my series 2 to a manual. It cost around $3000 for parts with centre console etc. Depends what clutch you. mine was a Jim berry at $900

I did some of the labour and paided some to do the box swap. Was another $600.

I think best option for now is grab a s/hand auto box for $200-400 and fit that. Then if you are keen, collect all the manual conversion parts over time and do the swap later.

Alex never did it, so he was only only guessing what was involved. Some of his threads are funny.

It is not that hard of a job to do with the right parts.

manual conversions are the sort of thing even me(who is over working on cars) will have a go at! i recon it could be done for 3k

clutch in my 1600 was awesome, and in traffic i would just let it part way out and roll in traffic, never used the throttle, so its still only one foot, like an auto :)

i dont see the point in buying another auto for the price of the labor for the conversion, just to bin it when you go manual, you have a second car, so park it and save for the manual!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just did the shift kit, sump off job . . . fluids all topped up , service kit also put in.

there getting their boss to have a look at it tomorrow.

oh yeah ANOTHER ISSUE .... when looking at Rebuild they kept looking at RE401'A'

then i told them it was a 'B' they all kind of looked at each other .... so i asked them ' you knew it was a B right, thats what i booked it in for '

thats where i got worried. hopefully the boss is very professional and works the shit out ...

OR you could get them to install the right f^(king kit!

If you booked it in for a 'B' and they installed the 'A', then they should fix their screwup

:banana: Goddamnit! Why is the customer expected to pay for a "specialist" mechanic's mistake? :/

Edited by iamhe77
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok guys talked to the boss man today.

ran me through all this mumbo jumbo about what he puts inside his boxes and all that. basically comes down to

Stock gear box will now become GEAR BOX ON STEROIDS!!! :D

doing a full rebuild on my box somthing they call STAGE 2 REBUILD good for around 350-400rwkw

and very afordable :D;) , so when i get the funds i will drop it in, he offerd to do it now and i pay him off (but i dont like being in debt to people) , very nice guy very nice indeed :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok guys talked to the boss man today.

ran me through all this mumbo jumbo about what he puts inside his boxes and all that. basically comes down to

Stock gear box will now become GEAR BOX ON STEROIDS!!! :banana:

doing a full rebuild on my box somthing they call STAGE 2 REBUILD good for around 350-400rwkw

and very afordable :D :D , so when i get the funds i will drop it in, he offerd to do it now and i pay him off (but i dont like being in debt to people) , very nice guy very nice indeed :D

PM me a ballpark figure if you dont mind :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like something similiar to what i just had done to mine.. Stronger clutches, kevler bands, all new steals and Stage 2 shift kit.. cost me $2200 from KEAS/GZM Automotive

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PM me a ballpark figure if you dont mind :banana:

I too would like to know the ballpark figure TJ.

Can you also tel me what they are doing to make it a "stage 2" kit.... and who is doing it of course!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PM me a ballpark figure if you dont mind :D
Sounds like something similiar to what i just had done to mine.. Stronger clutches, kevler bands, all new steals and Stage 2 shift kit.. cost me $2200 from KEAS/GZM Automotive
I too would like to know the ballpark figure TJ.

Can you also tel me what they are doing to make it a "stage 2" kit.... and who is doing it of course!

$1800 . . . but im only paying $1330 next visit cause already got the Stage 1 valve body done. just havent got reverse cause the box cant keep up with PSI of the fluid going through the box, the box is just tired.

with the clutch packs there down it will be like 'brass button clutch' i think thats what they refered it to. when you can ride the clutch in a manual car, just rev and launch basically.

but being an auto, the clutch packs wont really kick in till changin from fisrt and second and so on. i.e manual quick shifting feeling.

all the bands will be stonger items also, as well as the orings. basically everything that can come out, will be replaced with new items and stronger items.

i'll be getting an e-mail from RVO PERFORMANCE sometime this weekend with a full list of whats goin in there :banana:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
×
×
  • Create New...