Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

incorrect. i would suggest looking closely at the maxima unit from a wreck.

it consists of:

steering wheel with switch

clockspring

brake and cruise lockout switches

lockout relay

electronic control unit

vacuum pump

vac servo and cable.

the latter comes in various lengths so find one that suits your car and use that.

in my case with a rb20 it was taken from a U13 bluebird.

if you do grab a mid late 90s unit get the matching electronics from the same car. the vac pump and servo you can mix and match to suit

your position in the engine bay providing you get the cable and thread length correct.

  • 4 weeks later...

True, I have been there with the old vacuum versions. A common problem with both though for me I think might be fitting the actuator somewhere in amongst all the gear in the 4WD stagea's engine bay... but will give it a shot.

I'm keen to see how this all turns out as I've been missing the cruise control from my old Statesman. I don't suppose auto and manual would be any different? Please keep updating. And a price list of all the parts would be lovely if you find them and don't mind.

Cheers.

True, I have been there with the old vacuum versions. A common problem with both though for me I think might be fitting the actuator somewhere in amongst all the gear in the 4WD stagea's engine bay... but will give it a shot.

mine sits one the firewall.

531052_4995735574411_516077483_n.jpg

middle top of image.

pump you can put anywhere. mine is actually in the stock spot in front of the strut tower drivers side.

539712_4995734974396_197079199_n.jpg

I have since revised that bracket to a early 90s maxima one. it sits on the strut now.

costs - not really relevant. all of it will be secondhand from wreckers.

auto and manual ARE different electrically. if you are going to pull one from a wreck make sure you grab everything attached to it.

Thanks Chris. I was going to ask where to fit the actuator in the engine bay of an RS4 C34... it's pretty packed in there :(

I think I will have to mount mine in the cabin (under the dash). The only thing which concerns me is I don't know how noisy the unit will be when it's operating.

Also, does anybody know if there is a cruise light in the dash?

Edited by DaveB

Thanks Chris. I was going to ask where to fit the actuator in the engine bay of an RS4 C34... it's pretty packed in there :(

I think I will have to mount mine in the cabin (under the dash). The only thing which concerns me is I don't know how noisy the unit will be when it's operating.

Also, does anybody know if there is a cruise light in the dash?

it will fit out side. give me a bit to do scotts one and I will pop a few images up. no light in the dash going to use two LEDs or if I can find a spare light socket in the dash I will make something fit.

it will fit out side. give me a bit to do scotts one and I will pop a few images up. no light in the dash going to use two LEDs or if I can find a spare light socket in the dash I will make something fit.

Awesome, thanks :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...