Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As i'm sure you're all aware, we are in for a bit of shopping spree on behalf of the government.

Being the enthusiasts we are, it is probably safe to say a lot of us will spend this money on our cars.

My R33 currently has a 3 inch turbo back exhaust, front mount intercooler, high-flow panel filter and has been boosted to 12 pounds. It has been dyno'd as having 160 rwkw (A little disappointing yes- needs o2 sensor desperately). Everything else is stock.

My question to you is:

What would be the best way for me to spend this $900 bonus on the car? The aim is to increase performance as much as possibile.

Let the ideas flow!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260822-kevin-rudds-stimulus-package/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the liability to pay tax on your earnings rests with you mate as you have to declare it in your income tax return. If you choose to work for cash (lucky you if you can I am spewing about the ludicrous amount of tax I will pay this year) then you already have an advantaged over not giving 30, 40, 45% to the taxman, so you cannot be too aggrieved about not getting a hand out.

On the other hand, I am f**king pissed, I have paid over $60k in tax this year so far and I aint getting shit, who the f**k paid for all these handouts in the first place....... its bullshit

I have one of the $22 boost controllers that were the talk of the town on here a while ago. It does a pretty decent job of keeping boost. But I sometimes find the acceleration is not that smooth, so perhaps a tune would be in order?

the liability to pay tax on your earnings rests with you mate as you have to declare it in your income tax return. If you choose to work for cash (lucky you if you can I am spewing about the ludicrous amount of tax I will pay this year) then you already have an advantaged over not giving 30, 40, 45% to the taxman, so you cannot be too aggrieved about not getting a hand out.

On the other hand, I am f**king pissed, I have paid over $60k in tax this year so far and I aint getting shit, who the f**k paid for all these handouts in the first place....... its bullshit

I'd be pretty happy if I paid 60k in tax, surely it would mean i'm doing ok. Not taking the piss mate, just being honest with you.

Injectors would break the 900 easy, since your only putting out 160rwkw your injectors should be ok for an e85 tune, do that an you'd still probably have 500 left!! New fuel pump as well, 300 still left, spend that on noodles for the next 3 months for the next round of upgrades

I thought it was only for families, not single people.

This government going to ruin the country, they should be saving the money and use it on building pipelines for water from the north or other infrastructure, that would create jobs and help with the droughts and irrigation problems that the growers are facing, now the country will be going broke-jobless-and starving, families could use it but giving it to everyone is playing Russian roulette with the future, wasting our taxes on hand outs to everyone.

On the other hand, I am f**king pissed, I have paid over $60k in tax this year so far and I aint getting shit, who the f**k paid for all these handouts in the first place....... its bullshit

C'mon man, if I was paying more tax than the average person's annual full-time salary I wouldn't be complaining. Tax rates are lower than what they used to be. I ain't happy to be supporting dole-bludgers through c'link, but it's the price we pay to live in this country.

I have one of the $22 boost controllers that were the talk of the town on here a while ago. It does a pretty decent job of keeping boost. But I sometimes find the acceleration is not that smooth, so perhaps a tune would be in order?

PowerFC is what you need.

easy

Status Tuning remap. Cheaper than PowerFC and Trent will make sure you have a top tune. Try buying a Powerfc, getting it installed, and tuning it for the stimulus cost.

That will be most of the $900, then maybe you can just ask him what you should spend with the rest.

And in addition, you're spending it on a local service, which is the best way for the money to be spent. If the daughterboards came from oz it would be ever better!

but yes, cash handouts are f*cking useless - but i'm going to try and make mine as productive as possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...