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hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

Edited by AtomicBomberMan
  • Like 1
hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

just take the belt off if you go on the track !!!!

I have the 1000hp balancer yes you can run the a/c just take the belt off when you race it but in saying that i have reved my engine to 9000rpm and the compressor and belt are fine same with the power steer.

Guest snotass
I have the 1000hp balancer yes you can run the a/c just take the belt off when you race it but in saying that i have reved my engine to 9000rpm and the compressor and belt are fine same with the power steer.

Ross Tuff bond offer a very good Balancer to suit your application.http://www.rosstuffbond.com.au/

Hey Chris,

You've made me think now! i bought one in the group buy that passed a few months back! i bought mine for a r34, (since i bought an r34 motor thinking i had all the accessories off it) i cant remember if i bought the 1000hp model or not. starting to hope i did now

But i do recall someone saying remove the ac belt when racing.. not a problem for me now since a/c has been pulled out!

Hey Chris,

You've made me think now! i bought one in the group buy that passed a few months back! i bought mine for a r34, (since i bought an r34 motor thinking i had all the accessories off it) i cant remember if i bought the 1000hp model or not. starting to hope i did now

But i do recall someone saying remove the ac belt when racing.. not a problem for me now since a/c has been pulled out!

Hey Andrew,

You bought a 500hp version mate.. There are a few big HP gtr's (900HP) running the 500Hp balancer with no probs.

As above just remove the a/c belt when your racing.

Cheers

Johno

im also looking at getting mine installed ATI 500hp.. whats the deal with underdrive/overdrive.. also with 500hp ill be able to run a/c from whats been said, is it only at track 'racing' i will have to remove the belt, wot about on the street giving occassional squirts

my question exactly bwr! what do they and yourselves consider "racing"? how much of a pain is it to take off the belt? what are the consequences of not taking the belt off?

what is the difference between taking the belt off when racing and turning the ac off when racing?

i have heard mark berry and russell newman ran into heaps or problems with their ross balancers, i think with the centres delaminating. Ross sent them quite a few to trial before tsukuba, i dont know if ross ever solved the problem. i do know that once they changed over to an ati, all problems solved and they have never looked back. can anyone confirm?

Edited by AtomicBomberMan

How much power are you looking at making AND what are you looking to use the car for?

If your going to be making well in excess of 500Hp and racing the car on the circut more than once a year get the 1000 and be done with it - taking off the A/C belt is a 5 min job.

If your just building a street car get the 500. As mentiond above there are a few GTRs floating about with much higher outputs than 500Hp with these.

Taking the belt off means that the crank doesnt have to drive the aircon - simply turning off the aircon doesnt stop the fact that the crank still turns the aircon belt = more work for the crank.

Hope theat makes sense.

Also as a side note - not a good idea to compare your car with Mark and Russells flat out race car....

  • 10 months later...

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

I would bet your idler was 3/4 screwed before hand (its a common 32 thing), we have used a fair few 1000hp ATi's and never had any subsequent failures on the road.

Slightly old post I know but for all running A/c with the 1000hp design beware

While running on the highway today my idler pulley failed taking out both the A/C belt an power steering belt and nearly the waterpump/alternator belt as well

I can not confirm 100% this was because of my 1000hp damper but it is at this point the prime suspect

I had was certain I had ordered the lower spec 500hp upon checking ATI's site I realised

I had in fact been supplied with a 1000hp version

A/c was not on at the time an I had just done some 3rd gear runs to resonably high revs

and was slowing right up when it let go 80 or so in 4th

as the idea of the trip was to help with running the car in so no constant revs etc.

if you look at the size of the idler pulley ie much much smaller than the drive pulley on the crank even stock

let alone 25% overdriven it must do some fairly obscene rev's

i have a slightly used 600hp one (around 100 hrs) if you want to swap. Can i tempt you with a few Edith Cowan's ??

hi all, i am in the process of putting my engine together. ive come to the problem now i dont know what balancer to buy. i am using a hks step 3 2.6L billet crank, hks pistons, trust carillo rods and an ats twin plate carbon clutch with lightened flywheel. all these parts were balanced by the machine shop to suit an ati balancer. my problem is, i dont really understand what i really need. yes i do want to rev the engine, but do i get the 500hp version or the 1000hp version? i am definitely not aiming for 1000hp, but i have heard that the 500hp model is a little too light to stop the harmonic vibrations. however if i go the 1000hp version, it does not allow me to run aircon. is this true? what do they mean by underdriven/overdriven pulleys?

ON THE ATI WEBSITE IT STATES FOR THE 1000HP MODEL

1000HP Damper includes new aluminum water pump pulley for clearance. A/C belt is a 25% overdrive - DO NOT USE BELT IF RACING! 15% underdrive on power steering, OEM size on water pump.

can anyone explain what this means? can i or cant i run aircon? or do i need to remove aircon belt if i want to race?

Please help!

Call Ati- they will make you a custom dampner at minimal additional cost. I recently had a 500hp rb26 ballancer modified to suit rb25. I just sent them a technical drawing of what I wanted and they modified it to my spesification. The guys are happy to work with you.

Cheers

Justin

Edited by XRATED
I would bet your idler was 3/4 screwed before hand (its a common 32 thing), we have used a fair few 1000hp ATi's and never had any subsequent failures on the road.

Dont doubt that for a second pretty sure thats what pushed it over the edge though,

Interested to hear you have had a few survive though gives me some hope

Out of curiosity were they tracked cars or jus cruisers

if I only had to take the belt of for trackdays I could live with that

i have a slightly used 600hp one (around 100 hrs) if you want to swap. Can i tempt you with a few Edith Cowan's ??

Damn Dirt had to google that to wasn't sure jus what u were offering, wikipedia tells all though

Will pm ya once I have had a chance to talk to my engine builder Monday

Call Ati- they will make you a custom dampner at minimal additional cost. I recently had a 500hp rb26 ballancer modified to suit rb25. I just sent them a technical drawing of what I wanted and they modified it to my spesification. The guys are happy to work with you.

Cheers

Justin

Not sure they could change the A/C pulley being it is the main one carrying the weight

will chat to em monday though regardless

appreciate the imput guys

thanx

Edited by noone
Not sure they could change the A/C pulley being it is the main one carrying the weight

will chat to em monday though regardless

What about asking them to supply a larger pulley on the A/C itself to slow it down (new belt required obviously).. is this a viable option?

They supply a water pump pulley, why not an A/C one?

If they do that, buy 2 and I'll have one. :)

replacing the A/C pulley would not be a viable option as would require rebuilding the whole compressor

cant see it being an option really

It is not a bolt on like the water pump etc

Have never seen a aftermarket kit that supplies this

really doubt its possible

Edited by noone
  • 2 months later...

Trying find advise on balancers,

just took delivery of an R33 GTR with step 2 HKS crank 2.8 etc etc ( SLY33's you may know of it )

took it in to get tuned, and noticed its only got 5",600hp drag-400hp street ATI balancer ( thats what it says on it )

engine is well into 700hp's, shop said I need bigger one ?? $1000 ??

seems to make sense, but spoke to guy that built it, and said that one would be fine ??

any pearls ??

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