Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey just got to 2 questions

number 1

i wars thinking of making a rb20det with 500bhp to start with, becourse not many people have done it, and to see if it can be done. so if you have an idea to what parts i should use it who'd be great. i am going to use a HKS f-con v pro engine management.

number 2

is it even possible to run 2,2 bar of boost on stock internals, becourse there is a man in sweden that clams to run 550bhp and 2,2 bar of boost, here is the specks.

ported head with custom cams.valvs

stainless steel exh.manifold with T70 Turbo

700hp + turbokompressor.

HKS 60mm wastegate with screamer pipe

Jun style polished inlet manifold with 90mm billet trottle

Bosch 1000cc injectors

twin Whalbro fuelpumps

modified fuelsystem

GTR style large intercooler 3# pipes

Link Engine Managment system

water/methanol injected to support the 98oct std pump fuel

when going over 2 bar of boost

HKS ignition amplifier

Nos system

launch control/antilag system

sorry if my spelling is a bit off

Edited by larsgtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/
Share on other sites

Its pointless. A waste of money. It will be lag city like no tomorrow. Youd be better off going RB25. But if you want to do it, then do it.

2.2 Bar on a stock bottom end...you can try it, but dont expect it to last more than a couple of dyno runs!

Ive heard of someone running 2.0 Bar through an SR20. Its crazy!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4479997
Share on other sites

here is a pretty crazy rb20 built by OHperformance i had on the dyno the other week the revlimit was 9800 and sounded sweet, real credit to the guys.... :) 490hp at the wheels.

post-34927-1237175255_thumb.jpg

Edited by URAS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4480124
Share on other sites

here is a pretty crazy rb20 built by OHperformance i had on the dyno the other week the revlimit was 9800 and sounded sweet, real credit to the guys.... :) 490hp at the wheels.

it must be mental from 5000rpm to 6,000rpm!! lol it triples it's power in 1,000rpm! does it still make power after 7500rpm?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4480168
Share on other sites

there is a reason not many people have 700hp turbos on RB20's... did some people go on school holidays early?

T70 turbo sounds like a piece of shit http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eb...bo-t130247.html

5000rpm of lag does not sound like fun, IMO, if you want that power, RB30DET or a turbo LS1 :)

Edited by Ryan1600
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4480335
Share on other sites

femno: i know that it is better going for a rb25 but here were i live they have some strict rules about engine swaps, the only way i can do it, is if the people that decide if it is going on the road or not, cant see the difference on the two engines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481018
Share on other sites

They have strict rules about motor swaps...

Yet you can make the motor you have into a 500bhp item?

Sounds like laws there are dumber than here in Victoria, and i thought that wasn't possible.

500bhp would be about as useless as 1000bhp from a OS 3ltr :verymad:

Whats the use of the car? You would get far more enjoyment, speed and so on from a RB20 that has more response.

Such lag that would require would make the car slower

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481060
Share on other sites

i am going to use the car as a every day car in the summer.

if i remove the cover over the plugs so they cant see on the cover if it is a rb20 or a rb25, but is there any other way they can see that it is a rb25, and not a rb20

Edited by larsgtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481127
Share on other sites

If you buy an R33 RB25DET it is easy to pick the difference as the inlet cam gear looks completely different and the inlet manifold is clearly different. Get an R32 RB25DE and turbo it, nobody can tell the difference externally. I was going to put 25 internals in one for a cheater RB20 but am happy with the 340hp at the wheels my std RB20 makes so sold off the engine, rods, cams and pistons etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481575
Share on other sites

300rwkw+ & RB20 in my book does not equal alright for a daily driver :P

250-270rwkw & RB20 IMO is about the limit, otherwise you just hurt resposne too much to enjoy it and you have to drive with your foot up the car everywhere you go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481695
Share on other sites

here is a pretty crazy rb20 built by OHperformance i had on the dyno the other week the revlimit was 9800 and sounded sweet, real credit to the guys.... :P 490hp at the wheels.

Sorry to go off topic here but you wouldnt happen to have a video?

Would LOVE to hear it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481849
Share on other sites

300rwkw+ & RB20 in my book does not equal alright for a daily driver :P

250-270rwkw & RB20 IMO is about the limit, otherwise you just hurt resposne too much to enjoy it and you have to drive with your foot up the car everywhere you go

i Dont know Ash, 4 years ao people said anything more then a 2530 and 220rwkws was too much for a std RB20. A new manifold and some different turbo combos are getting thrown at Ben and we will soon know where we land, it will be between 260 and 310rwkws somewhere. Just have to find the combo that works best, cant wait to see if the std 20 can handle the extra power and more importantly revs :D

...walks off and starts singing "anything an RB25 can do, and RB20 can do better... :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261284-high-power-rb20/#findComment-4481943
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...