Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are certainly other options out there, but not many.

For the MY11+ GTR with the 390mm front rotors you only really have Alcon and AP rotors as a direct rotor replacement, though these still require new hats.

The 390mm fronts are better than the 380s on the MY09-10, but still prone to cracking, like this after a couple of days on track:

post-77793-0-74361000-1341538172_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

^ same as the r32 rotors - crack across the cross drill section.

i noticed that the alcon & ap rotors are slotted for the r35, so why have nissan cross drilled rotors from factory? you wonder if this was a marketing ploy for replacement purposes / ongoing business (similar to that of the iphone with glass screen which does not bounce well)

I wouldn't worry about forking out $$$$$$ for rotors. When mine are done and dusted, I'll be going with DBA 5000's.

Guys on NAGTROC have said nothing but positives, I've used DBA's on my Subaru STi's for track and daily work with no issues what so ever.

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/topic/66648-dba-5000-series-rotor-ring-set/

I wouldn't worry about forking out $$$$$$ for rotors. When mine are done and dusted, I'll be going with DBA 5000's.

Guys on NAGTROC have said nothing but positives, I've used DBA's on my Subaru STi's for track and daily work with no issues what so ever.

http://www.nagtroc.o...rotor-ring-set/

DBA's are great & I use them as well. $325 per rotor makes it almost 90% cheaper than the oem's :)

Australia have developed A LOT of good upgrade parts for the legacy GTR's & seems to be the same trend for the R35

I don't know why they are drilled, the holes fill up with brake dust after a few track sessions anyway.

I asked DBA about 390mm rotors a few months ago, they were waiting for an OEM sample to work with...So doesn't sound like they will be available anytime soon, but I will certainly get them when I can.

I don't know why they are drilled, the holes fill up with brake dust after a few track sessions anyway.

I asked DBA about 390mm rotors a few months ago, they were waiting for an OEM sample to work with...So doesn't sound like they will be available anytime soon, but I will certainly get them when I can.

Don't ask the Aus DBA boys, you gotta go DBAusa.com to get the good stuff. They make them already, this is direct from their USA website.. Mind you these fit up to Feb 2011 build cars.. Anything after nada!

Front Rotor

DBA 52320BLKS DBA 2 req

DBA 52320GLDXS DBA 2 req

DBA 52322.1S DBA 2 req

Replacement ring to suit OE hat DBA52322.1XS DBA 2 req

Replacement ring to suit OE hat

Rear Rotor

DBA 52321BLKS DBA 2 req

DBA 52321GLDXS DBA 2 req

DBA 52323.1S DBA 2 req

Replacement ring to suit OE hat DBA 52323.1XS DBA 2 req

Replacement ring to suit OE hat

Edited by Wardski

why wouldn't you go with the AP's? i've used quite a few sets with nil issues. Not trying to cause a shytestorm but nearly every DBA i've used (admit on other cars) have warped pretty quickly. Might be the way it's bedded in (my fault perhaps) but from my perspective the DBA's are more fragile in that sense. I wouldn't buy them, at least not for track. For the street, sure.

why wouldn't you go with the AP's? i've used quite a few sets with nil issues. Not trying to cause a shytestorm but nearly every DBA i've used (admit on other cars) have warped pretty quickly. Might be the way it's bedded in (my fault perhaps) but from my perspective the DBA's are more fragile in that sense. I wouldn't buy them, at least not for track. For the street, sure.

DBA rotors can be hit n miss, but this was more like 5 years ago. I've had about 5 sets on the STi, and not one have had any issues - other than wearing down too fast - but that was probably more my fault than anything else :whistling:

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...