Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are few more Photos of Powered Up high flowed R33 turbo with 2IU turbine housing:

Note the difference in volume of modifed turbine housing on the right:

housings.jpg

pufront.jpg

purear.jpg

Thats some cool modifications and porting to the housing.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

Whats the response difference or lag difference between the G2 and the GT3040?

I have a R34 GTT Auto, a brought a GT3040(GT3082) with a .82 rear housing a while ago to put on. Now i think it might lag to much with the auto.

Am thinking of selling, to get the ATR43 G2 or get the original Skyline turbo high flowed.

PS. Only just found this forum topic and have just joined SAU

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

On GT3040, boost wouldnt come on at all under 3500 (which when driving normally is annoying) with G2 turbo comes on about 2700 (only couple of pounds which count when your trying to over take). Full boost 3500 rpm.

LAG:

On gt3040 i would have full boost at around 4500

G2 1st gear 4000, 2nd gear 3500, 3rd gear 3400 5th 3200 rpm.

My opinion:

I was supposed to go for G2 from the start, and mates talked me into getting 3040 instead (M I S T A K E). Unwanted attention, got put off the road. canary.

G2 is better or as good up to 5000RPM, after that not as good but very close to GT3040 IMO. Fully legal, i recommend G2.

Hi

Thanks for the info. I will look at selling the GT3082

do you guys do replacment for standard turbos on a r33 gtr? what specs are they and how much power would the rebuilt turbos make? also how much would they cost? sorry couldnt find anythin reading through the pages only found rb25 upgrades nothing for the rb26.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

Hi

I will be looking at getting one in the future

What is the latest prices on the

Skyline ATR43 G2 0.63 turbo?

and

High Flow R34 G3 OP6?

thanks

ATR43G2 .63 with high pressure actautor and braided oil feeding line we can do for $1530.

To high flow your stock R34 turbo cost $960 including braided oil feeding line. high pressure actautor is additional at $150 each.

With RB26 we normally high flow them to 2860RS spec. which works out to be the -9 configurations in your stock turbine and comp housings. they would be ok for up to 320rwkws before you need bigger turbine housings. Response wise they feels like the N1 steel wheel turbos. Not as responsive as the stock cermaic wheels.

Photos at:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/gtrturbos.htm

We can build custom .60 A/R comp and .64 / .86 turbine with OEM boltup pattern for those if required.

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

I'm curious as to whether you have done one of these custom turbo's for a GTR yet and if so any dyno graphs or similar or info :D

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

Hi there. If you are looks to make around 230rwkws with excellent street driving ability I can high flow your stock turbo to same spec as a 2530.

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Sounds very interesting, what is the price on this for an R34 OP6 turbo?

Convert that into OP6 R34 turbo cost $1000 including braided oil feeding line and oil drain adaptor.

To do this we have to modify T28 bearing housing to suit a T3x pring turbine housing.

Have done few. Not as many as other turbos thou. Have also driven one. Un-tuned, car pulled hard after 4500RPM but have lost fairbit of response to stock ceramic turbos. its about 300RPM laggier then stock N1 turbos.

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

I was thinking if you could use the new VARA turbo's that your making in a GTR...maybe not :D

Probably not at this stage. They are too small to work with.

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

Standard from $800 + GST + oil line $80 = $960

Powered up high flow from $1100 + Oil line $80 + $150 High pressure actautor = $1310

This might be a silly question but is it possible to just replace the standard ceramic turbo wheel with a steel turbo wheel so that boost can be raised safely above 12psi? Do you offer a price for that? Would it still require a different oil line?

We actually build a brand new turbo core with bigger wheels, then machine your stock housings to suit it. We only use steel turbine wheels. So are you actually getting back a brand new turbo inside your factory housings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...