Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually, what kind of power figure would I get on a 0.63 housing? Would an external gate be a better option maybe, since loads of people swear by them?

With RB25det you should get about 260~270rwkws on about 18psi with external gate. The .63 turbines is very good for street response but not very good for big power and torque.

Shipping to WA is $35.

Stao, any result from the 2530 spec turbo yet?

Im aiming for 250rwkw but want response like a HKS GTRS. I have a both the stock 2IU turbo and a stock VL RB30 turbo to work with... maybe mix and match?

Yes I currently have them avaliable in .82, and .84 Twin scroll. The .82 comes with the 6 bolt dump pattern or a 3inch Vband.

This is dynosheet is with ATR43G4 (600hp) profile in .82 turbine and .70 comp

Car's got:

850cc high flowed injectors from Created

Ebay cooler kit

Tomei 260 Duration by 8.5mm lift Cams

3inch exhaust with metal cat.

Tail 38mm external gate vented to atmosphere (drilled on top of stock manifold)

Z32 AFM

Z32 ECU with nistune chip and modified loom

301rwkwsrb25det.jpg

Stao, any result from the 2530 spec turbo yet?

Im aiming for 250rwkw but want response like a HKS GTRS. I have a both the stock 2IU turbo and a stock VL RB30 turbo to work with... maybe mix and match?

Any indication on info like this please? am very interested in your service stao, still need help to make up my mind.

That turbo's currently on a RB20det R32 and Here's his reply. hopefully I'll get a dynosheet soon.

This is a print of his reply in my pm.

post-27032-1266669092_thumb.jpg

Stoa, Have you used a turbine housing like the one you made for me before? I just had my Front pipe and Cat replaced with 3" items and the turbo is now hitting over 15psi with no boost controller. I have loosened the preload on the actuator arm and noticed with how the Vband connecter is on the turbo the wastegate flat have very little room to move. I can take pics if you want to have a look.

Yes I currently have them avaliable in .82, and .84 Twin scroll. The .82 comes with the 6 bolt dump pattern or a 3inch Vband.

This is dynosheet is with ATR43G4 (600hp) profile in .82 turbine and .70 comp

Car's got:

850cc high flowed injectors from Created

Ebay cooler kit

Tomei 260 Duration by 8.5mm lift Cams

3inch exhaust with metal cat.

Tail 38mm external gate vented to atmosphere (drilled on top of stock manifold)

Z32 AFM

Z32 ECU with nistune chip and modified loom

301rwkwsrb25det.jpg

Is this turbo housing 6 bolt oem dump pattern or 3 inch vband?

That dyno is fantastic, its up around 300rwkw for a long time not just at peak rpm!

I have heard the 6 bolt oem style is restrictive, do you find the 3 inch vband is better?

Cran:

The actuator's only got about 8mms of movement so the clearance is enough.

Before the ATR43 were released all TR43 and TR43is were running this type of turbine housings which I haven't had any issues, but most of them were running higher then 15psi.

I advise you to get the car dyno tuned to have the correct afr and timing set.

Hary:

That turbo is running off a 6 bolt dump. The car had abit of miss on high rpms which you see, I think if its not popping it should have a slightly rising curve to about 310~15ish KWs.

Cran:

The actuator's only got about 8mms of movement so the clearance is enough.

Before the ATR43 were released all TR43 and TR43is were running this type of turbine housings which I haven't had any issues, but most of them were running higher then 15psi.

I advise you to get the car dyno tuned to have the correct afr and timing set.

Hary:

That turbo is running off a 6 bolt dump. The car had abit of miss on high rpms which you see, I think if its not popping it should have a slightly rising curve to about 310~15ish KWs.

Thanks,

Have you got any comparisons between 6 bolt oem style and 3 inch vband ?

Cran:

The actuator's only got about 8mms of movement so the clearance is enough.

Before the ATR43 were released all TR43 and TR43is were running this type of turbine housings which I haven't had any issues, but most of them were running higher then 15psi.

Sorry but this just seams strange to me whats the point of a 10psi actuator if the turbo can't manage to do anything under 15psi?

Stock turbo wastegate flap has a hell of a lot of movement compared to this one.

The space specified is enough to the amount of movement by the actuator. Also this is a 1KG actuator so to me its doing what its suppose to do.

any way, with the 6bolt pattern, the overall area is greater then the size of the exducer of the turbine wheel. There would be a slight restriction, but I don't think its would affect any thing more then 5KWs.

Sorry but this just seams strange to me whats the point of a 10psi actuator if the turbo can't manage to do anything under 15psi?

Stock turbo wastegate flap has a hell of a lot of movement compared to this one.

if it is a 1kg actuator the minimum boost will be 14psi not 10psi

Hi Tao

Just reading this and he says his Oil line is too short.. I won't have this problem with my r33 rb25det yeh and everything should fit and line up perfectly??

Thanks

Cesar

That turbo's currently on a RB20det R32 and Here's his reply. hopefully I'll get a dynosheet soon.

This is a print of his reply in my pm.

post-27032-1266669092_thumb.jpg

Edited by Black_CSR

They are sold with a T28 drain flange. It is shorter then the stock T3 flange, so you need to extend it with few inches of power steering horse.

Stao, what company makes your plain bearing CHRA? I know you can make a turbo with a garrett ballbearing CHRA but what are the plain bearing types? where are they made and by who?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...