Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

why are people running these turbos at 17-18psi and not 22psi?? Whats the go with the dude above asking for a 14psi actuator, why not a 22psi one?? confused...:unsure:

The headgasket, the combustion pressure, the heat. Alot of issues come in when running high boost. I don't think the standard headgasket is good for much above 18psi for too long, especially on 15+ year old motors. You are really gonna start increasing the intake air charge on long runs. Sure it looks good on a dyno but how long is your motor going to last you.

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

Its a sloppy setup having an actuator which opens randomly when on boost. On this low pressure actuator I got from you, sometimes it opens at 8psi sometimes it will shoot up to 14psi. Other days it won't go anywhere near 11psi. Its very strange. Air temp wont mean shit, pressure is pressure, if the actuator is holding 10 constant, it should always hold 10 constant. I'm guessing maybe when under bonnet temps or the turbo temps get hot, the spring may get soft causing boost to flop or the spring to work out of spec.

I don't know but I do need to run more boost but scared to do so with these actuators. Are you able to source Garret actuators to fit your turbos? Have you considered kinugawa actuators?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Actuator-SUBARU-Legacy-WRX-IHI-VF40-VF46-15-Psi-/280712012508?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415bbd62dc

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

I manage to hold boost pretty well? Drops off around 2psi towards redline, that's deliberate though.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup.

My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy.

What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

Greddy Profec Bspec II.

Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level.

First of all turbos are different with unique wheel design as well as housing and gate sizes. Means the back pressure in them are not the same. So high pressure actuator only means it hold certain pressure on the turbo that has been specifically made for, refer to what I was originally asked to build.

If you run an actuator from a different turbo to on some thing else obviously its going to give different readings. Eg. If I run an actuator that made to hold 18psi on a .58 rear housing, then that actuator will hold 24psi on a .82 rear housing. As the back pressure from the .58 is lot greater then the .82. Only means its not the correct part, does not mean its bad quality.

That is why I asked you to keep the original actuator I've tested and supplied with the turbo, or buy it back from my self. Have a look at my boost pressure curve for the SS2, that is a perfect actuator for that turbo.

In terms of High pressure actuators we have 4 different spring settings so I guess you've fitted the strongest one by luck, same as what I've fitted on the SS1-PU.

Oooh yeah. Just paid for the pu prototype. Excited to see how she goes.

Will post up results when the cars been tuned.

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes!

Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

He mentioned something about an RB25 drift car at some stage, I forget where...

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

Ah cool.

Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings?

My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

I'll check all my settings for ya tomorrow mate :thumbsup:

Probably want some thing knocks less on high boost.

Also For people who's thinking doing Z32 ECU with Nistune on R33. Don't do it. I'm having so much trouble getting it to work, they are unreliable, and many areas that can’t be touched.

Big thanks Trent's spent 6 hours tuning and try to fix it and it just don't work.

I'm thinking of modding the illustration car back to stock or going for a PFC or Link ecu for my next run.

Uh oh. I have a about 5 z32-r33 nistunes to do this month. U have me scared now. With my drift car ill be running a rb20 ecu with a msd or similar rpm window switch.

Boys the prototype pu turbo will be going onto a customers R33. Very tidy car running power fc, 3inch etc. And a profec B i fitted to it last sunday.

My r32 gtst with rb25 drift car is running a different turbo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...