Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the drain You can modify the stock drain pipe with a bit of high quality heater hose from Repco (cost $14/M):

oildrain2.JPG

Installation guide with the G3 is at page 39:

http://www.skylinesa...d/page__st__760

I just had a piece of 90 degrees 2.5 inches pipe from turbo to cooler piping then just poded the front at that time. Or just a 4inches 45 degrees hose with a straight pipe and pod.

With the rubber pipe generally if it doesn't touch it won't burn. If it does looks like going to touch then we normally put a small whole on the the end of of and pull it back against the bracket with a small zip tie.

also can you send me a photo of your engine bay? must be a very neat setup :P I'm installing another SS3 prototype I will post some photos of how that looks like on my car and whats required.

I'll take a photo in the morning, it's finally all back together and running like a dream :D No air-locks or anything which I was very surprised about, I did bleed the system but usually it takes a couple of tries to get all the air out. Now I just need to get the screamer pipe made up and it's ready for the tune on Friday.

My setup is quite neat now, apart from my hot cooler pipe which is hideous confused.gif Will be getting that remade and then it should look the goods :) Then rocker cover respray, then custom catch can, then then then... It never ends huh.gif

Could you explain a little more about the air con drain? The dump pipe is touching it, by quite a bit actually. What do you mean you put a hole on the end of it???

My dump pipe is also close to the air con drain as in it has burnt it. Does this explain why I am getting some water dripping on the feet of the front passenger when the aircon is on?

There is about an inch of space, maybe a little less, between my dump (jjr) and that rubber hose. I'd wrap the dump in heat wrap. My old car had a wrapped dump and it really did make a difference to cabin temps.

Bah. My pipe is already melted :( May have to just delete the air-con down.gif

I think thats an overreaction! Its only the release of the condensation isnt it?? It just drops water on the ground. So if there is a hole burnt in it, then either the water will drop out the hole that was burnt or in my case the water is dripping back inside the passenger feet area.

Yehh Jeff, comment was more in reaction to the amount of fking around I had to do in order to keep my aircon. It just seems to be in the way of everything, including my screamer pipe. And I would rather not have water coming into the cabin every time I use the aircon glare.gif Anyway, for those who are interested, here's a few pictures of my setup:

New turbo. Size comparison. For science ;)

IMG_0008-2.jpg

Old vs New:

IMG_0020.jpg

How it sits without any of the plumbing. At this stage I thought it was going to be easy unsure.gif

IMG_0012.jpg

In this image you can see the issues I have with the dump touching the drain pipe as well as the screamer pipe fitment. It's gonna be a hell of a custom job for that screamer.

IMG_0017.jpg

And in this image you can see how far over it moved my intake pipe. I used to be able to fit my radiator overflow in there as well, but that's had to be relocated.

IMG_0018.jpg

And finally this is how my bay looks in general. It actually looks much neater than my previous setup did, I spared no expense with this setup.

IMG_0019.jpg

I'm playing with the idea of doing a full write-up for the install, but unfortunately I didn't take any pictures along the way... If there's any interest in me doing it then I guess I can give it a go anyway. Or if anyone wants pictures of anything in specific then I can go and take some for you.

Edited by Hanaldo

Thats the Current ATR43G3 in .82 rear.

Also If you can actually pickup about 600RPMs of better response by getting rid of that big cooler pipe goes across the engine bay.

I don't believe you.

Check here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__pid__6051685__st__2700

The E85 run has forward facing plenum that runs 1/3 of piping compare to mine which also run over the engine bay. Appears most people with forward facing plenums do run shorter cooler piping pickups better response then others whom run cross over piping.

Check here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__pid__6051685__st__2700

The E85 run has forward facing plenum that runs 1/3 of piping compare to mine which also run over the engine bay. Appears most people with forward facing plenums do run shorter cooler piping pickups better response then others whom run cross over piping.

Different cars right with different setups? Would need to do a direct before/after comparison on the same car.

I dare say the forward facer would not help response.

My reasoning is that longer runners give better torque and flow distribution. Larger volume in the intake tracts also gives better volume ability. IE a fatter cooler pipe after the IC than before (more volume for the denser charge).

Be it myself I would run a pipe atleast the hose ID of the throttle body from the TB to the cooler. I would run it 90 degrees from the TB then out by the manifold like the HKS cooler pipes do, eliminating the big crossover pipe.

I would do this not to shorten the length but to eliminate that crappy crossover pipe which varies the ID.

He’s running a Plazaman plenum. In theory shorter cooler piping reduces lag as the length in air travel is shorter, with less volume to fill, same as bigger or smaller coolers. Mine and Abe's car are identical in setup except shorter cooler piping and plenum, E85 should also have some effects as well. I’m also in the process of designing a shorter piping on the plenum side, should make a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...