Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kasko - I got mine done at a 4wd specialist and they quoted $350, asked for $450 and I paid $350 after some arguing.

Stao. Will that little extension work for my turbo with boost drop issues?

Anyone wanna change my clutch so I can join this race :(

Got quoted $500 for the change

I got quoted the same amount (including flywheel machining) and Im on the Central Coast NSW....

that was from a brake and clutch place though...

so I'll do it myself I reckon... its just heavy, everything else is straight forward.

How much power are you running to want to choose from those expensive clutches?

Im running 290rwkw soon to have E85 and jump to about 320rwkw..

Im looking at running Exedy extra extra extra heavy duty clutch $738 abouts...

Im looking at running Exedy extra extra extra heavy duty clutch $738 abouts...

that clutch will just hold onto 330..

NPC 10' carbotic..about 750$ Simon-s14 uses on his drift car holds 360kw no worries..Few other people have said they are great too..nice soft pedal feel

allthough really if your going to race it you want the flywheel as well (it has a cooling panel to prolong clutch life) which is another 450$..but you could run without it..

thats what im getting anyway.. :thumbsup:

its actually rated alot higher than that, the extra extra HD holds 330, this will hold alot more...

Hamish is abusing it on his 325rwkw ProS setup, been using it a while too...

But I'll look into the NPC clutch too thanks...

Just a note. The excedy heavy duty can't hold 200kw. IN POOR CONDITION

So yeah. If it was new, it was bed in wrong or driven bad and ruined.

200kw is stock clutch territory.

Right now I am tuned to about 240rwkw.

In the future I may chase 260-270 on E85

So just need something that can handle up to 270.

so you could getaway with NSK-7056HHDB for $691

Power Holding Capability (At Flywheel): 499hp / 372kw

its actually rated alot higher than that, the extra extra HD holds 330, this will hold alot more...

Hamish is abusing it on his 325rwkw ProS setup, been using it a while too...

But I'll look into the NPC clutch too thanks...

Oh ok, there's an extra extra on the extra extra...

I guess Hamish buys clutches like he buys his clothes...:laugh:

Are these street friendly clutches?

Button clutches are normally the ON or OFF type?

Buttons take a lot of effort to drive and maintain IMHO.

The HHHDB (3x heavy duty button) normally gets sticky in traffic and wont like to shift easy or come out of gear. If you know how to use it and stop it from doing that, they are OK.

I would rather have a HHHD which is the 3x hd without the button. It just makes it easier to manage and less stress getting around. It will be forgiving like a normal clutch, where as the buttons dont appreciate driver error. Your passengers will appreciate it even less lol

seems excessive though to spend $1200-2000 on a clutch for the sort of power were talking about here...

any suggestions for better clutches then that dont go over $1K

I use PBR made Clutch Industries RPM kits. They don't exceed the $400 mark too often and have not had one let me down yet.

I havent used one on a 500hp skyline though lol

Ive had exceedy brass button clutch it was ok for around 300rwkws. Other wise try extreme clutch. I had them in my 300zx and sil180, they are good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...