Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

Drop the cat, have a play with the EBC, that dip and claiming back up shape looks strange. To get around the 280rwkws mark it needs to hold around 20psi up top.

Further more, pretty much all results came out of the test car are on aftermarket manifolds. I will see Trent next week to trail a larger turbine housing for the SS2, which should compensate a little working with stock exhaust manifold.

It looks either wastegate is unsealed or VCT is not activated.

Ask Sean to change the VCT settings through the ECU and see it response to power curve. 2ndly the actuator has to be removed for turbo installation and in many cases the pre-load was let by the operating mechanic (many believed they shouldn't be tensioned) or not been corrected adjusted after installation.

I installed turbo to engine, then engine into car. Actuator hasn't been adjusted. But i will check it Saturday morning And test Vct just to be sure.

Might be able to log boost against Rpm then drop Cat and compare and see if it gains much response

Edited by t_revz

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

P9200055_zps10e337e0.jpg

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Interesting that they didn't use any correction method, I've never had a run on Allstar's dyno without SAE being used.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

Thats honestly a pretty good graph man.. I can imagine you would want boost in as early as possible, and to hit the mark for power, but that is all in by 4k already.

It definitely has the marks of a fast car, and I do believe the turbo is performing based on the shape of the curve. For a turbo thats capable of more power, to me it looks like its not running enough boost, or theres a flow restriction of some sort (other than the turbo). As its only a minor hold back on boost and your missing 10-20% power.

Theres definitely more in it once you work out whats holding it back.

Yeah I'm not too concerned. But would like to get the most out of it after spendibg so much time and money on it. Regardless I want to change exhaust from behind the dump, check all obvious things then wind more into it. I'm confident with more boost the power curve should be close to everyone else.

But yeah it feels fast as for me after only driving a ford ranger and grand vitara for the last 3 yrs ;)

Hi all

I bought on of hypergears highflows around 6 months ago with the intention to put it on my track car, but as life likes to play its little games, the track car was stripped and sold.

But I kept a few select bits to make myself a budget, reliable and responsive daily driven drifter

A r33 4 door, so sticking to the budget I fitted a front mount cooler, a intank fuel pump, the highflow I had (r33 21U rear, 14psi actuator) and a microtech lt16 I had.

Then took it in for a tune, stock injectors(remember budget build) and all

So on a safe tune, to handle me thrashing it at the track :P

The injectors had a little left in them at 300hp but 282rwhp (208kw) was the final tune

For the very minimal cash outlay, I'm very very happy with the result

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Great result for a very budget build! That turbo would be good for 18psi at least, so I can see it would really come alive with some injectors and more boost.

Good work, I would be happy with the result of a nice reliable ultimately budget build like that.

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

Thanks mate, I did consider going the injector path but for the extra outlay I might just stick with this setup, it seems to drive so well and still has the balls to fry tyres rolling onto boost in lower gears.

Either way I am in QR matsuri in 2 weeks so will see how good it goes :)

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Edited by johnnilicte

a cheap option for injectors are S15 450cc injectors, they flow decent amount and can be had for next to nothing on silvia forums :woot:

just read you have a GT-t, fail on my side lol

Not a fail on your side, fail by me, I should update that, I've had 4 different cars since the r34 4 door

This is a series 1 r33 4 door :D

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

even more, I was making 246 kW on my old shitbox with the duty cycle at around 70ish %

I dont want to set the bar too high, it is a HF and is running a microguess. The microguess is the biggest holdup, to keep the tune safe I say discount about 20 from what it can do as a maximum.

Make much difference?

I see mine says 2000+4000 while simonr32's says 2000+3000. Googled last night but didn't find an answer. I know nothing about correction methods so have some studying to do

I wouldn't have a clue myself, but from memory Simon said it adds 7% to the total power. As does their dyno apparently. So together my power figure is apparently 14% out. I think that's what it worked out to, the question was whether my 393rwhp figure on Allstar's dyno was accurate compared to my 318rwhp on Autoworx Dyno Dynamics a day later.

haha well there you go!

S15 450s will get you up to 230kw man, easily.

Still a lot of effort for and extra 20 odd kw lol, but I will keep my eye out for some cheapies as I'm always on nissansilvia.com

But I have my basic engine setup I wanted :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...