Jump to content
SAU Community

Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

hypergear

By hypergear,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 12.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Lithium
Lithium

I was reading through the thread and was going to weigh in anyway, though looks like you're very much on the page I am reading from - so I'll +1 with with a bit more anecdotal evidence to support it

hypergear
hypergear

The ATR28SS15 would be a perfect turbo for your application. I didn't look into some thing even smaller as it doesn't make that much of a difference in response but did loses quite a lot of power. I'

Dose Pipe Sutututu
Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ lol... maybe I'll use a 3" intake pipe and add in more bends.. that usually gets the suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutuuututuutut going LOL. Anyhow, some real world facts to back up the results.. errbody likes ti

Posted Images

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Haha well the bigger the wheel the more accurate it is! :P

Yeh I'm rechecking TDC every time. Thing is, even if TDC was out, that would give me the wrong degree, it wouldn't give me the same degree every time. The error must be elsewhere. I've tried using a different reference value on the dial indicator, and that gives me a different result. Which shouldn't happen. But I can't work out why it does that...

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Yep already tried that. Have also tried doing it graphically, so using another degree wheel and working out the mid point of the numbers on the image. It comes out the same every time. Its strange. When I adjust the gear, the final value stays the same. When I change the reference value the finale degree value changes. It should be opposite.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nope, I'm calling it quits. I tried moving the dial indicator to the other lobe and setting it up again, end result was the same. So to double check I just took down the dial indicator measurements every 20 degrees and then plotted it in Excel, and it gave me a near perfect valve curve figure. So the dial indicator is tracking the lobe perfectly, it's not an issue with that. I am 100% stumped, I have absolutely no idea what is happening. Doesn't make any sense and nothing I do fixes it.

Starting to wonder if there is an issue with the cam lobe symmetry. But surely it must be something more simple than that, I MUST be making a mistake somewhere. I just can't find it :( 2 whole days wasted doing this shit now :/

Edited by Hanaldo
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Car is near Mundaring, Trev.

BUT, I have figured out the issue :D must have come to me in my sleep last night because I woke up knowing what it was. Its because I'm using a 180 degree wheel, bastard thing. I just got unlucky with where the degree value fell on the degree wheel, and lost track of which side of 0/180 I was measuring. So the first time I moved it one of my values was 172 and it all worked and I moved it but only by 4 degrees. Then the next times I tried to adjust it, the degree values had flipped to the OTHER side of 180. So I was getting something like 177-179 etc. but it was on the other side of TDC, which I didn't account for in my formula. Had my first value been at ~100° then it never would have flipped over and I wouldn't have had an issue, I just happened to get a value very close to 180 and 0.

So essentially it was my formula that was wrong because it wasn't accounting for being on the other side. This could still happen with a 360 degree wheel but it would be even more unlikely that the degree value falls close to 0°. But really you just have to be quite vigilant of which side of TDC you are working on

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Car is near Mundaring, Trev.

BUT, I have figured out the issue :D must have come to me in my sleep last night because I woke up knowing what it was. Its because I'm using a 180 degree wheel, bastard thing. I just got unlucky with where the degree value fell on the degree wheel, and lost track of which side of 0/180 I was measuring. So the first time I moved it one of my values was 172 and it all worked and I moved it but only by 4 degrees. Then the next times I tried to adjust it, the degree values had flipped to the OTHER side of 180. So I was getting something like 177-179 etc. but it was on the other side of TDC, which I didn't account for in my formula. Had my first value been at ~100° then it never would have flipped over and I wouldn't have had an issue, I just happened to get a value very close to 180 and 0.

So essentially it was my formula that was wrong because it wasn't accounting for being on the other side. This could still happen with a 360 degree wheel but it would be even more unlikely that the degree value falls close to 0°. But really you just have to be quite vigilant of which side of TDC you are working on

:wacko: lol

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Haha soooo after measuring it CORRECTLY this time, I've found that all my adjusting has put my intake cam at... 60° :blink: 60° out now! Haha. Would have expected that far out I would like be hitting valves, but I'm not. Now to correct!

t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted (edited)

No way. 60 out is about 8 teeth :/

My way was fool proof :whistling: my young bloke was a bit too crook to travel today anyway.free tomorrow If your still having dramas. Hope you get it sorted!

Edited by t_revz
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

60 out is 4 teeth on mine, each tooth is 15 crank degrees. I skipped a tooth trying to get more advancement on the gear, then ended up skipping it 2 teeth because it wasn't moving (was aware it couldn't be have been correct, was just trying something I knew would makea it move). Then I went to turn it back and accidentally turned it the wrong way, so it was 4 teeth.

All good now, spot on 120 degrees! Just rechecking my exhaust but that should be perfect.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

No, when I started the intake cam was at 112.2°. So 7.8° retarded. Its now where it should be at 120°. With 4 different reference values on dial indicator to make sure :P

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

No, when I started the intake cam was at 112.2°. So 7.8° retarded. Its now where it should be at 120°. With 4 different reference values on dial indicator to make sure :P

I think you are the retarded spanner in the works :P j/k, get it sorted man! Cant wait to hear good news!

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Haha Yeh well that's what I was doing for the last two days, moving the gear backwards and forwards and not getting anywhere :/ all sorted now, time to out it all back together. I somehow don't think my car will be very driveable until I get a tune now though :(

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^^^^

Those is definitely educational materials. would be great if you can post a write up on those cams.

Below is the latest SL21G, or you can call it the SLSS2 or S(L+S2). Basically the Current SS2 with SL2 turbine in 10cm housing. Its suppose to be on the dyno today, Unfortunately my Walbro 20000262 fuel pump burnt out last night and my car was tolled back by RACV lol. Its getting a 20000267 pump installed very soon and getting tuned in a week time.

Below is photo of the new prototype (and the dead fuel pump):

sl2ss2comps.jpg

sl2ss2turbines.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Pads for R32 GTS-t, R32 GT-R non V-Spec (Sumitomo), R33 GTS-t and R34 GT-t are all interchangeable. R34 GT uses a 2x piston caliper, hence it didn't fit.
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Checked with amayama and nope, the full S2 manual set is not available anymore. Unsurprising, but still disappointing as the ? on availability gave a glimmer of hope.
    • joshuaho96
      Tomei gasket

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
×
×
  • Create New...