Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interesting development!

Carlo, I have decided to go for an ATS carbon twin-plate, so unfortunately your Exedy clutch will not get a run this time, but I think it would be great for all of us if we could address the issues raised by Risking and Dazmo... In addition to the above two comments, I also heard of instances of the clutch shearing the flywheel bolts (below pic)...

exedy_carbon_bolt.jpg

As you can imagine, cars on this website (and in this section specifically) make pretty high power and torque numbers, so it would be great if I could put Exedy back on our lists for the next clutch that we all will inevitably have to buy...

I was definitely drawn (and also at the same time.... apprehensive) about the flywheel design. It looks extremely light... Possibly TOO light? Are you able to give us some weight specs of the clutch (total), clutch discs and flywheel?

Cheers,

Andrew.

  • Replies 615
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nothing doing :D

Car is sitting very stationary in a corner of John's workshop until my clutch comes... I've been told "about a week".

Sorry Daz, but I couldn't pull out of the purchase. Once they have your money, there ain't no getting it back :(

we put a exidy twin in the targa car for the v8 supercar support race, i think it was a carbon one by the price (dad just got it fitted and didn't tell me much about it). But dad kept over heating it on the start line, seems it dosn't like being revd for very long on the line. Which left him with clutch slip for 1/2 a lap (he backed off till it gripped again) Never had that problem with the sports ceramic that we run in targa.

After chopping and changing about eleventy billion times, I'm currently waiting on a Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate (Competition Spec)

Nothing wrong with that Andrew, I have a super coppermix twin plate and must say its the best clutch I've had in regards too how light it is on the leg and has quite a bit of give on taking off. It's not a ON/Off sort of clutch that jerks or stalls if not given heaps of revs..

Other clutches I have used are Nismo G-MAX twin plate, Exedy twin plate and OS twin plate.

Oh, and my car did see the track quite a bit, handling 350rwkws no problem....

Exactly. Hence why its standard issue in the ZTUNE...

Hi Jack, and good choice Andrew. You realise your car is late model R32 and has pull type clutch, so you will need to convert everything over to push type? I guess who you bought this from advise on this? That silver R32 GTR here the silver one has one of these clutches, and nice to drive yet strong.

FYI car is on hoist looking at us, waiting, with The SLot Car sleeping underneath atm.

if he ordered the right nismo coppermix clutch (ie a late 32/33 pull one) then he wont need the converter stuff. they make a compatible clutch so you don't have to convert. :down:

ouch!

ahh well even if its the wrong one its easy enough to convert the box to push, and gives a better selection of aftermarket clutches too.

those os/giken style pull to push kits on the other hand sound like a silly idea

Hey all...

Yep, I know that I have a PULL gearbox.... I made sure that I ordered a PULL version, so it should bolt straight on :P

Clutch should be here soon, so hopefully the white whipper snipper will be moving under its own power again soon!

Hey Risking

Would be very interested to hear about what broke , in the Twin Plate Exedy Carbon-R Kit , As i mentioned to merli any info on this style of kit would be fantastic , Reason for asking i'm the Qld Sale's Rep for Exedy Australia , All an any feed back on the kit would be fantastic !

Cheers

Carlo

Qld Sale's

Exedy Australia Pty Ltd

Eagle Farm Qld .

Not to go off on a tangent too much from this build thread, but seeing you posted I shall post the crap your company sold to me, then didn’t want to know about it nor want to inspect it for a design fault.

This clutch, was installed by a clutch specialist, this clutch lasted not even 72hrs. I wanted a clutch to use in my car as my OS twin plate was getting rebuilt. The phone monkey at the time was adamant this would be up to the task…

CIMG07812eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07872eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

CIMG07832eJPGmsgBF2B8030-CEF6-446A-.jpg

To be honest as this was a couple of years ago, I’m not even phased if you reply.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...