Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Spraying the turbo with WD40 will do nothing to help the situation.

Here is a potential cause.

Having a series 2 your turbo has a bakerlight compressor wheel, a very hard plastic and this could be scuffing on the housing making a squeek or high pitch squeel.

It happens because the shaft wears out and usually there is forward/backward movement in the shaft causing it to push forward on the housing or backward on the backing plate.

It will eventually explode and throw bits of plastic all through your intake soon if the noise is in fact coming from the turbo.

Or you could have a bird in there that is opposed to greater boost pressures.

Kind of like a Nissan Nazi Budgie.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4522541
Share on other sites

If anybody watched Top Gear on Monday night and saw the actor who drove the well priced car around the circuit and Clarkeson asking about a string of 911 Porches he had owned. As they were chatting about his string of cars he admitted he new bugger all about them and on one occasion was driving his brand new 944 he had picked up the day before, realising he didn't like it he stopped off at the Porche dealership and got another 911. He couldn't tell Clarkeson what model it was and the only one he could remember was the one he was actually driving to the interview. He couldn't even tell if any of them had been a turbo or RS or wide body.

My point ? If someone knows nothing about a particular car and still can't find the time to read enough to at least make some kind of considered opinion as to how it operates then does he deserve ownership ? Of course he does. That's what money is for. I wonder though why there are no longer any genuine GT Falcons left. GTR XU1's ? E49 chargers ? Because they, (like our Skylines will eventually be) were thrashed, crashed and neglected by people who never took five minute's to learn even the basics of maintainance before asking how their engine blew up. But hey, stuff it, it's just a bloody car after all. I shall now don my fire suit. Let the flaming begin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4522564
Share on other sites

Spraying the turbo with WD40 will do nothing to help the situation.

Here is a potential cause.

Having a series 2 your turbo has a bakerlight compressor wheel, a very hard plastic and this could be scuffing on the housing making a squeek or high pitch squeel.

It happens because the shaft wears out and usually there is forward/backward movement in the shaft causing it to push forward on the housing or backward on the backing plate.

It will eventually explode and throw bits of plastic all through your intake soon if the noise is in fact coming from the turbo.

Or you could have a bird in there that is opposed to greater boost pressures.

Kind of like a Nissan Nazi Budgie.

returnaphonecallmuch?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4522620
Share on other sites

Some funny replies there. My problem is, i bought a turbo off someone from the forums, put it on my car a few months back cause mine was f*ked and while changing it the gasket was kind of breaking but i had no way of getting another one because it was a public holiday.

So i used the original gasket. On sunday i had an exhaust leak which sounds like its coming from the gasket between the turbo and manifold. I bought the new gasket today and since half my stuff is out i thought i would spray wd40 in there to possibly help the squeak.

I wanted to know if it would hurt the turbo NOT fix it.

Oh and whats a flange?

Edited by WET-25T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4522698
Share on other sites

the base of your turbine housing bolts the the FLANGE on your manifold. your manifold starts off with a flange, the item that mates agaisnt your head....

if metal flanges remind you of pussy, you are getting some bad pussy.... real bad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4522775
Share on other sites

I sprayed about 0.00007 cents into it. Just the fro nt wheel, then wiped the remains away when it went to the bottom. Meh, im more annoyed that one of the studs came out of the manifold.

To save me the run around and because i need my car for work asap due to my boss not wanting to pick me up everyday, where can i get a new stud and nut?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264507-turbo/#findComment-4523250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
×
×
  • Create New...