Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Arx Wheel Options


[[d a n n y]]
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Danny, my brother inlaw has them in a 19 on his R33, they are awesome with the big dish. Good choice mate.

bought 20x8 advanti vienna's with +35 offset

wat tyesr should i put on

245/40? or 45?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about if i wanted to run lower profile tyres

i get a RS or RX cluster and run lower profile..

wouldnt the speedo read correct then?

I'd 'fast' it to be sure, but I expect that a different sender would be required in the gearbox.

Also, does the AR-X run a different diff. ratio?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Would this be suitable for an ARX?

19x9.5 +16 and 19x10.5 +12??

What tyre sizes would be suitable?

I dont like low profile that much, is it more expensive?

I think those wheel will sticking out heaps from the guard,

Im runing 18x9 25+ and its already very close to the edge of the flare!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hm...cool

any1 intrested in ARX wheels???

EOI atm cuz my new wheels are coming in..

Stock 18"s? :blink:

What condition are they in? i.e. gutter rash, nissan mech's with rattle guns etc lol

What rubber you got on them?

Just thinking about it, but I think the 19" Osaka rims will be the go :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock 18"s? :blink:

What condition are they in? i.e. gutter rash, nissan mech's with rattle guns etc lol

What rubber you got on them?

Just thinking about it, but I think the 19" Osaka rims will be the go :)

LOL. You and your Osaka rims!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Have changed my mind to get some ROH modenas, however not sure that when I order them i can specify width, will 10inch be too wide for an arx, also do you tell them the offset etc? 20inch then 10inch wide too fat?

10" may be too wide... depends on the offset and if you want your rims sticking out from the guards.

The widest I would go would be about a 9" wide rim with a +20 offset.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
10" may be too wide... depends on the offset and if you want your rims sticking out from the guards.

The widest I would go would be about a 9" wide rim with a +20 offset.

Hi,

Just about to order these but dont know what offset to choose?

Can someone shed some light ? The order form is here http://www.roh.com.au/external_media/roh_m..._order_form.pdf but i have no idea what to fill in.

Thank you so much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can safely fit 10" on the rear with a +40 offset on a RS 250t so with the extra guards on an ARX you could go wider. The biggest issue on the M35 is the front swing arm. I think the max you can go on a RS up front would be 9J with a +28ish offset. That will take it right to the guard and only leave 8-10mm between the rim and swing arm - so its pushing it.

as MX Fly suggested 8.5J +22 offset is prime (maybe you can go bigger with the ARX guards)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as MX Fly suggested 8.5J +22 offset is prime (maybe you can go bigger with the ARX guards)

The problem would be that under the flares, you still have the standard panel work to deal with. Still you could certainly do some hardcore guard rolling, as it's all out of sight. That would definitely change things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • lol, yeah, and how gutted I am now I’m back over in Europe (actual Europe) and dealing with the nightmare of U.K.-Continental Europe bureaucracy.   Anyway, arrived in NL early January with the BMW, whilst the Skyline followed suit about a week later. Both cars ended up stuck with their relative importers for about six weeks. Since then, I made a trip to the Nurburgring with a friend and have since ditched the Skyline in the garage. This week, I finally managed to find a suitable shop to do an alignment so hopped on over to Germany to fix the miserable mess the local Netherlands shop conducted; the car was just not aggressive enough in the rear for my driving style - I found myself understeering a fair bit at the ring which was really a first for me with this car. Mis-matched F&R tyres can be held partly responsible - have now moved to F+R NS2Rs. One thing I’ve noticed is the 180kph limiter just does not cut it here. I quickly hit that (for the first time) in Germany on the autobahn. Japanese circuits are small - at least the ones that were near me. I rarely spent much time in 4th. After much deliberation with the HKS SLD, I have ordered Nistune from Matt. Whilst the Skyline has been gathering dust I got to learning the highly neglected BMW I bought in the U.K. was in fact just that, highly neglected. Took the ol’ dog down to Switzerland last weekend with a progressively deteriorating front end. It went from vibration during braking at highway speed on the way down, to vibrating non-stop on the way back. I’ve already fixed numerous engine issues - low oil pressure, f**ked injectors, incorrect coils and plugs, electric water pump. Still to do is a suspension and brake overhaul, rear subframe replacement and likely more ageing engine electrical components. But I must say, I love it. After so long with the Skyline, I really didn’t know cars could be so comfortable.    
    • Thanks. I adjusted my soft cut to 7600rpm and if I see I'm still making power there, I'll consider readjusting to possibly 7800rpm while on the dyno. 
    • Yeah not sure. I sourced another relay no problem, its definitely a relay according to Nissan parts, they used those specific relays on a bunch if cars around that time, but my two options are, find a behind dash wiring loom which is proving difficult, or get the current loom fixed up by the shop when they put my rebuilt engine back in, they are confident in their auto electrical abilities. Thing is my current loom has anti-theft stuff and GPS immobilisers wired into it so easiest option may be to just fix the current one to save ripping apart the immobiliser. 
    • Took it apart to get to the bearing found out i was wrong the bearing was pressed on to the diff side and the part i removed only had the bearing side, checked the bearing all looked fine took the shaft end to a shop and they recon it was movement from back and forth that made the marks and not rumbling about, so i just changed the seal and put it all back again.
    • Oh dear. That's um. There's like. Um. a lot of bare wires there. Take the whole thing out. Something is very very shorted somewhere. IT IS NOT CAUSED BY THAT "RELAY" (assuming it is a relay).
×
×
  • Create New...