Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
No exactly what the question is...

Doing a burnout? - Drive around the water, backup onto the pad and apply noise.

Isolating the front wheels? - How about one of the Dirtmans 2wd/4wd switch and harnesses...

The 33GTR attessa system if different and you can't just switch from 4wd to 2wd with a switch. You can use a torque split controller but this doesn't fully isolate the rear wheels and isn't good for the transfer case. The proper way to do it is to remove any pressure from the attessa system so that there is no transfer to the front wheels. examples of cars that do this is the heat treatments GTR and Godzilla Motorsports GTR that have a manual pump system to pressurize the transfer case.

There is some combo that you are meant to be able to do, to de-pressurise the transfer case for towing (can't remember it off the top of my head) but it would be a pain in the ass to do on the drag strip.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4622326
Share on other sites

For an R33/R34 why don't you put in a 3 position solenoid valve in the pressure line that goes to the transfer case and flick a switch to divert all the oil back to the reservior... hence no pre-load? Or is it a mechanical pre-load some how?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4622549
Share on other sites

To put the GTR into rear wheel drive is simple.

My R33 Service Manual states:-

There are 2 Methods to change the drive mode to 2WD setting.

1. Remove air evacuation connector, and depress the brake pedal 5 times within 10 seconds after placingthe ignition switch to ON posititon. At the same time the 4WD warning lamp will flash in the meter panel (twice in a second) to indicate it's in 2WD mode. To return the the vehicle drive mode to 4WD mode, place the ignition switch to OFF position and connect air evacuation connector.

2. Remove front propeller shaft.

Can anybody confirm this works??

post-47546-1243496825_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4622599
Share on other sites

shit seems like its all to complicated, was hoping for a quick fix way.

ill be doing heaps of passes on the day so hopefully they will warm up due to the mount of use they are getting but i know they wont be perfect.

and yes i do have a torque splitter and already new that the 2wd/4wd switch doesnt work for r33's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4622688
Share on other sites

For an R33/R34 why don't you put in a 3 position solenoid valve in the pressure line that goes to the transfer case and flick a switch to divert all the oil back to the reservior... hence no pre-load? Or is it a mechanical pre-load some how?

I haven't really looked into it, but something like that could work using a solenoid as I think it pressurizes it when you turn the ignition to acc. Maybe a switch could be rigged up to activate a solenoid to block the line to the transfer case before the car is turned on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4623106
Share on other sites

I haven't really looked into it, but something like that could work using a solenoid as I think it pressurizes it when you turn the ignition to acc. Maybe a switch could be rigged up to activate a solenoid to block the line to the transfer case before the car is turned on?

Yeah I would not block it just return it to the reservior, so the ATESSA ecu can do what ever it wants however the transfer case sees no oil hence does not engage 4WD. Not sure if it is that simple.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4623209
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
To put the GTR into rear wheel drive is simple.

My R33 Service Manual states:-

There are 2 Methods to change the drive mode to 2WD setting.

1. Remove air evacuation connector, and depress the brake pedal 5 times within 10 seconds after placingthe ignition switch to ON posititon. At the same time the 4WD warning lamp will flash in the meter panel (twice in a second) to indicate it's in 2WD mode. To return the the vehicle drive mode to 4WD mode, place the ignition switch to OFF position and connect air evacuation connector.

2. Remove front propeller shaft.

Can anybody confirm this works??

post-47546-1243496825_thumb.jpg

i can confirm that it works a treat used it on a dyno and for skids many times

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/264884-gtr-burnouts/#findComment-4762137
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...