Jump to content
SAU Community

What Engine Oil To Use

RBTWENY5

By RBTWENY5,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RBTWENY5 Community Regular

RBTWENY5

Posted
Posted

ok i know this has been brought up probably a thousand times and ive even read a couple of threads on engine oil but i dont get it all the 20w to 50w or sumthin all that stuff just trips me out so i was wondering what the best engine oil would be for my car i have a 1993 r33 gtst and its done 101 000ks if that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266812-what-engine-oil-to-use/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The first number basically tells you how quickly the oil will be circulated from a cold start. You need a 0 or 10 there.

The W isn't all that important, but it's hard to avoid. It means "Winter", but I'm not sure exactly how it works.

The second number tells you how well protected the engine is while running. It depends on the engine as to what number you need, but the Nissan spec is 30. You could go to a 40 if you like.

The other bit you need is the SAE specification. I think it's up to "SM" - anything above "SJ" should be ok. This is basically a measure of all the additives, and how well they should work.

Synthetic is probably the way to go, but a semi-synthetic or full mineral will still work.

Stick with the brand names - Mobil 1, Castrol, Penrite, etc - and you should be ok. Avoid the "generic" brands - K-Mart, Woolworths, Target and the like. The regular Woolies Catalogue can offer good prices for oil.

(OO)Firty Free(OO) Rising Star

(OO)Firty Free(OO)

Posted
Posted (edited)
ok i know this has been brought up probably a thousand times and ive even read a couple of threads on engine oil but i dont get it all the 20w to 50w or sumthin all that stuff just trips me out so i was wondering what the best engine oil would be for my car i have a 1993 r33 gtst and its done 101 000ks if that helps

Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 Fully synthetic is what i use in my 33. Prices range from $75-$80 for 5 litres. A lot of people on here use the Motul Chrono but thats over $100 and is only sold in 4ltr and 1ltr bottles. Noticed your car has done 100 000k's have you changed timing belt etc? if not it would be advisable.

Edited by RB25DETS2
myRB25DETT Community Regular

myRB25DETT

Posted
Posted
Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 Fully synthetic is what i use in my 33. Prices range from $75-$80 for 5 litres. A lot of people on here use the Motul Chrono but thats over $100 and is only sold in 4ltr and 1ltr bottles. Noticed your car has done 100 000k's have you changed timing belt etc? if not it would be advisable.

Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 Fully synthetic <--- good stuff here..i used it for my R34 GTT...but thinking using the Motul 4100 next time...

SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted

Use to use Motol Chrono, very good oil mate you can't go wrong but for $100 for 4 litres it'll depends on your pocket cause remember 4 litres aren't enough.

Neway I'm using royal purple now around $80 for 5 litres and it's doing a very good job. I've got about 110 000 KM on the clock and around 250 RWKW so it is a good oil.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

To me oil is something that people shouldn't be tight about. Amazes me how some people can complain about spending $80+ on oil every 3 or so months, yet it's the same person that spends $1000 on gauges and $400 on a blow off valve. (Not talking about any one specific but more so of what i see through work).

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted
i swear by castrol edge 10-60 which costs around $75 depending where you get it from

Unless your belting it hard on a track thats a tad too "thick" in the ways of viscosity.

Oil depends on how you drive. If you are the "average" skyline driver that takes it easy when its cold then gives it a bit of stick while its warm any where from the 5W30 to the 15w40 will be ok. Basically the more you belt the car the higher the oil temp gets, which decreases its viscosity. If you are on the track you want something "thicker" because the oil will get to higher temps make it "thinner" (very very basic way of thinking about it)

a31lunacy Proficient

a31lunacy

Posted
Posted

go redline oil number one choice and then motul anything else really don't get a mention in my books you would be surprised how much of a difference a good oil makes to the performance of a car turbos spool faster engine revs easier and not too mention its better protected

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...