Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G-Zone would be better than the Nismo IMO.

Has the same low rpm response, but you can specify your boost levels, redline and they automatically remove the speed limiter (although I think that the Nismo has this removed as well).

Just note that the low end restriction modification is the "option" which is charged on top of the auction price.

Late last year, it cost 60,500Y for the complete G-Zone remap and yes, it is a changeover service - so you send your ECU to them, they remap it as best they can with your specs and then send it back to you.

Now I'm really confused then... why list it as an auction at all? >_<

Sounds like a good option, just not worth going through the auctions. Have to see if I can find another ECU first...

Now I'm really confused then... why list it as an auction at all? >_<

Sounds like a good option, just not worth going through the auctions. Have to see if I can find another ECU first...

They are listing it as a "service"

You see them all the time on YJ/IM...guard rolling/rotor painting, etc etc...

the fcon Is from what if found out is slightly more powerfull then the emange

the IS is like a emanage plus v manage in one unit so im sure it can do the same

and ye with no one runing fcon v pro i will soon so i wil be able to control my throttle etc etc :nyaanyaa:

well ill just get it all done and start posting a buil thread

but ecu is the first thing to go in so any thing else can be easily tuned in after

I dont think you read it, I will be running the Emanage as a standalone in a few weeks, with full cam control and a cable throttle for under $1000, beat that. :nyaanyaa:

A 4000 rpm launch should hopefully be on the cards if the box survives. lol.

Can't really see that you have no low end restriction considering that you sit it at 3000rpm before letting loose!

Can you send me a vid of your Stagea accelerating from standstill, in drive, from idle?

Watch the boost and when it start's to climb at a fast rate....2,500rpm!!!!

Car will still bog with no stall but full boost is about 3,000 - 3,200rpm.....it's to be expected with the turbo I have and standard stall converter.....before the Nismo ECU boost was not maxing until 5,000rpm and I could NEVER stall and release it like that!

I'll post up a launch with no stall tonight!

Edited by Jetwreck

I dont think you read it, I will be running the Emanage as a standalone in a few weeks, with full cam control and a cable throttle for under $1000, beat that. :nyaanyaa:

A 4000 rpm launch should hopefully be on the cards if the box survives. lol.

good job ,nice

like i said only hks dealers and tuners near me

I dont think you read it, I will be running the Emanage as a standalone in a few weeks, with full cam control and a cable throttle for under $1000, beat that. :nyaanyaa:

A 4000 rpm launch should hopefully be on the cards if the box survives. lol.

done any piston conrod work ?

i sen a nm35 snap a rod after being worked ?

been tld that the stock internals are good up to 350 kw saftly after that not so good ???

Edited by Sidius

Watch the boost and when it start's to climb at a fast rate....2,500rpm!!!!

Car will still bog with no stall but full boost is about 3,000 - 3,200rpm.....it's to be expected with the turbo I have and standard stall converter.....before the Nismo ECU boost was not maxing until 5,000rpm and I could NEVER stall and release it like that!

I'll post up a launch with no stall tonight!

and one from outside.

i couldnt get mine to stall above 2k rpm. if scottys works out, I know the path I'll be taking.

I stalled it last night to try and throttle Percentage on the informeter wouldnt go above 40% ish..

Now I'm really confused then... why list it as an auction at all? >_<

Sounds like a good option, just not worth going through the auctions. Have to see if I can find another ECU first...

I have a spare ECU if you want it!

done any piston conrod work ?

i sen a nm35 snap a rod after being worked ?

been tld that the stock internals are good up to 350 kw saftly after that not so good ???

Who told you that? I have spoken to a VQ30det owner with a TO4Z on it pushing 430wkw on the same rods, they must obviously be good for more than that as he was running that power for a year I think.

I havent done any rod work as I cant find replacements, and even if I got custom ones made, (you dont want to know the prices I got) they wouldnt be as strong as the stock ones. I will be going the 3.5 route anyway as soon as I can afford to rebuild the block I have here, should be good for over 800hp fairly easily.

The Emanage is a standalone if you put the engine in limp mode by the way.

Who told you that? I have spoken to a VQ30det owner with a TO4Z on it pushing 430wkw on the same rods, they must obviously be good for more than that as he was running that power for a year I think.

I havent done any rod work as I cant find replacements, and even if I got custom ones made, (you dont want to know the prices I got) they wouldnt be as strong as the stock ones. I will be going the 3.5 route anyway as soon as I can afford to rebuild the block I have here, should be good for over 800hp fairly easily.

The Emanage is a standalone if you put the engine in limp mode by the way.

have you got a vq30de your planing to build ? should be nice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...