Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sort of worked...

Aaron and I went for a squirt today, he looked at the gauges while I drove. We found my ecu definitely opens the throttle 100% at launch, but only if the brake was off for a second or two beforehand.

I looked at the ECU diagram and found the brake pedal input wire, not knowing if it would put the car in limp mode or if the brake lights would work, I snipped the wire and backed the car out.

The brake lights worked, and now I had 100% throttle at stall. A drive told me the abs still operated and the takeoff was much better, with the car hitting the 4000 rpm stall limit off the line with little effort.

I will let you know how the car drives over the next few days and if there are any side effects but for now it looks like Pipster pointed us toward the holy grail. :cheers:

Yep and can't believe how simple It really was obviously scotts is running off a built box which means I'm also testing it out for the next few day on the stock box to see if it handles. Scott now has an advantage with the high stall.. On my gbox it's improved a little but because I have a 2000rpm stall I can't do much ATM. But In saying that I can now boost up to 8-9psi on stall with 100% throttle and launch the bastard much better than before. I cant believe we did it, hopefully this will save us over $1000 each by not having To go gzone or nismo anymore!

Woohooo, that's brilliant !

I'll give that a go myself. Will do the before & after tests under same conditions of course, to try & take the 'subjectiveness' out of the equation.

I love low (or zero) cost solutions that give great results. No one can be dissapointed hey

If you want to try it, its pin 55 on the ecu. Its a pink wire with a blue line.(around the middle of the plug.) Just make sure you tape up both snipped ends well. :thumbsup:

(Dont hold me responsible if you damage anything please.) lol.

i rekon the nismo already has this out of the box thats probably why we have better throttle response........

but this is a shit loads cheaper lol

can you confirm this by getting hold of an informeter and stalling it up, before chopping the wire?

would be interesting to know, as i know andys impul is only doing 36% on stall as standard

his is KNOWN to have the throttle limit.

are you guys 100% sure there IS a performance increase?

heres my theory, the informeter is reading the throttle input from your foot. the ECU limits THAT signal to 38% (or whatever) due to its programming.

i have an informeter mate, ill be driving to work tomorrow so ill check it out in the back streets. wont be chopping any wires yet

yeh because before when scott would stall, it would hold him at 2000ish RPM,, now it limits him to his high stall converter.. which means the extra opening has increased, i also noticed a 5psi increase from where it was before for mee..

im sure he did lol

im glad we all worked together to get past this problem :)

now craig and i cant son of rajab our nismo all over you guys :(

Does that mean if this works out everyone gets membership to the awesome forum? :nyaanyaa:

im sure he did lol

im glad we all worked together to get past this problem :)

now craig and i cant son of rajab our nismo all over you guys :(

Nismo awesome is still awesome; but free awesome is the awesomest kind of awesome.:thumbsup:

'Cept for boobies...:thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...