Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate, I hope you do get something extra for having a Nismo ECU :blink: . You'd have to be annoyed at paying money for nothing more than you could get by cutting a wire.

Surely Nismo don't just disable that input and sell it for $800 or whatever?? That would be a huge scam if that was the case lol.

I can tell you this....If I put the Standard ECU or Impul on my car with the turbo I have on it its a Fat Black laggy POS.....4,800rpm before boost starts to climb. With the Nismo it was full boost by about 4,200rpm before the tune.....after the tune full boost by 3,200RPM and Cihan pulled some timing out because it was too reactive.

Kickdown has also been played with!

oh and I can do more than 171.5km/h. :P

I'll lay London to a brick that if a Nismo came up on IM you guy's would be all over it!.....it's the best plug and play mod you can get!...snipping the wire just let's you do burnout's!....well maybe not for Aaron :P

Edited by Jetwreck

I can tell you this....If I put the Standard ECU or Impul on my car with the turbo I have on it its a Fat Black laggy POS.....4,800rpm before boost starts to climb. With the Nismo it was full boost by about 4,200rpm before the tune.....after the tune full boost by 3,200RPM and Cihan pulled some timing out because it was too reactive.

Kickdown has also been played with!

oh and I can do more than 171.5km/h. :P

I'll lay London to a brick that if a Nismo came up on IM you guy's would be all over it!.....it's the best plug and play mod you can get!...snipping the wire just let's you do burnout's!....well maybe not for Aaron

i dont think it would still let anyone with a highflow do burnouts(stock ecu that is). without a high stall its only a little bit better...

i think my next challenge is to disable the attessa with a switch, and still be able to keep ABS.. the plug under the dash puts the 4WD light on, but i think it reacts the same and pushing the "synchro" switch.

which leads me to believe there is clearly more to the ECU than a throttle opening..

i dont think it would still let anyone with a highflow do burnouts(stock ecu that is). without a high stall its only a little bit better...

i think my next challenge is to disable the attessa with a switch, and still be able to keep ABS.. the plug under the dash puts the 4WD light on, but i think it reacts the same and pushing the "synchro" switch.

which leads me to believe there is clearly more to the ECU than a throttle opening..

You need awesome installed!thumbsup.gif

i dont think it would still let anyone with a highflow do burnouts(stock ecu that is). without a high stall its only a little bit better...

i think my next challenge is to disable the attessa with a switch, and still be able to keep ABS.. the plug under the dash puts the 4WD light on, but i think it reacts the same and pushing the "synchro" switch.

which leads me to believe there is clearly more to the ECU than a throttle opening..

One of my test launches yesterday (with brake switch disconnected) caused the 4WD light to come on :whistling:, but this mod doesn't mean instant burnouts.

Our ECU's are very much like women; I don't think any of us guys really understand how they work, but we know what we'd like them to do better, LOL

One of my test launches yesterday (with brake switch disconnected) caused the 4WD light to come on :whistling:, but this mod doesn't mean instant burnouts.

Our ECU's are very much like women; I don't think any of us guys really understand how they work, but we know what we'd like them to do better, LOL

LOL

yeh theres a plug attached to the OBD port, this is 'meant' to disable the 4WD. unplugging it certainly turns the 4WD light on, but it felt more so of 50/50 distro as i couldnt spin the wheels up at all and it was wet. but it definitely pulled as if the roads were dry..

i want more of a 0/100 lol

LOL

yeh theres a plug attached to the OBD port, this is 'meant' to disable the 4WD. unplugging it certainly turns the 4WD light on, but it felt more so of 50/50 distro as i couldnt spin the wheels up at all and it was wet. but it definitely pulled as if the roads were dry..

i want more of a 0/100 lol

why don't you try one of these then....use to have one on our old R32 GTR....worked very well.

http://www.ebay.com....=item19c5b4b24f

sent off a question asking them if it works for the M35.

Would like to see what our cars would run on the Dyno just in RWD!!!

Edited by Jetwreck

it would be something I could consider..

but i wouldnt know where to start with wiring it in succesfully I cant seem to find a diagram for our attessa wiring system..

but isnt that more for being able to split torque to the front when you want instead of when needed.

it says that normal mode is just 'stock'

it would be something I could consider..

but i wouldnt know where to start with wiring it in succesfully I cant seem to find a diagram for our attessa wiring system..

but isnt that more for being able to split torque to the front when you want instead of when needed.

it says that normal mode is just 'stock'

FFS!....isn't that what you want.....man your sizzled :P

It does for me. :)

Haha, yeah I know for a few of you guys it does. I was meaning for the majority of us with minimal mods, but you knew that & were just showing off ! LOL

why don't you try one of these then....use to have one on our old R32 GTR....worked very well.

http://www.ebay.com....=item19c5b4b24f

sent off a question asking them if it works for the M35.

Would like to see what our cars would run on the Dyno just in RWD!!!

I enquired about this one a while ago & it's never been used in a M35 yet. I can't see why it wouldn't work with our cars, but.....

OK, found the message:

"As far as I know no one is using one on an M35. If you want to take some photos of the G-sensors and connector under the center console I can certainly tell you if it is likely to work and I would be willing to refund your unit if it turned out not to be suitable after trying.

Regards Justin"

I really wanted more front wheel torque for those wet days when you want to get where you're going quicker & with less RWD "fun".:happy:

Edited by Commsman

I enquired about this one a while ago & it's never been used in a M35 yet. I can't see why it wouldn't work with our cars, but.....

OK, found the message:

"As far as I know no one is using one on an M35. If you want to take some photos of the G-sensors and connector under the center console I can certainly tell you if it is likely to work and I would be willing to refund your unit if it turned out not to be suitable after trying.

Regards Justin"

I really wanted more front wheel torque for those wet days when you want to get where you're going quicker & with less RWD "fun".:happy:

dont you have a synchro button?

dont you have a synchro button?

Yes I do :yes: But so what?

You're going to tell me that using syncro will engage proper 4WD, right?... Well when I do that it feels like I'm driving a 4WD with the front hubs locked. You know, harder to turn in tight spaces etc. What I want is partial or progressive front wheel torque, without the "lock up" feel.:huh:

LOL

yeh theres a plug attached to the OBD port, this is 'meant' to disable the 4WD. unplugging it certainly turns the 4WD light on, but it felt more so of 50/50 distro as i couldnt spin the wheels up at all and it was wet. but it definitely pulled as if the roads were dry..

i want more of a 0/100 lol

did you unplug it and pump the break pedal 5 times?

Yes I do :yes: But so what?

You're going to tell me that using syncro will engage proper 4WD, right?... Well when I do that it feels like I'm driving a 4WD with the front hubs locked. You know, harder to turn in tight spaces etc. What I want is partial or progressive front wheel torque, without the "lock up" feel.:huh:

lol yehhhhmellow.gif

i liked it, mine doesnt feel to jittery

did you unplug it and pump the break pedal 5 times?

yeh it doesnt do anything.. but i figured out full time RWD read the attesa thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...