Jump to content
SAU Community

Supercharging R34 Skyline

ahjosh
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Mundi Newbie

The Mundi

Posted
Posted (edited)
thanks dude. much appreciated. in the end i have researched my butt off to make sure im doing the right thing! and i know i am...sure its 30k but i know its gonna be worth it in the end lol :P im happy with my decision.

Well, stroking a 2.5 to a 2.7 is going to adversely effect you compression ratio and make the engine more prone to detonation, you need to shift a huge amount of air for 500kw, the two of these add up to disaster. But I think the sc and engine will run out of huff long before then.

Demotivation09.jpg

Edited by The Mundi
  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Johnny Veteran

Johnny

Posted
Posted

lolz na man she wants to do something unique like blow her car; thats different!

jokes aside, i like the charged route...check out the s15 twincharged which is really cool (i know its turbocharged too) but in the US they are selling quite a few supercharger kits for bmw 3 series with great results! aim for a reasonable amount of power like 400ish hp from an efficient supercharger and you can have a torque monster

The bmw kit is stealth; anodised black it just blends in with the engine covers so it can be made 'stealthy' im a big fan

Sheriff Wan Proficient

Sheriff Wan

Posted
Posted

Well now that I've read this from start to finish I'll comment:

To ahjosh - your a knob.

To the 34 girl - I think you may need to rethink the numbers, I know you say you have done "alot" of research and Im not doubting that. What I am doubting is the ability of a stroked 2.5L engine being able to produce 750Hp with a supercharger.

Regardless of what you do during this rebuild it simply won't flow enough - and if it does it will last all of about 1 day running 40 psi.

I don't mean any disrespect, but have you seen anyone get near these results with an RB25? or RB27? Best I've heard of is about ~200kw

At the end of the day - your car and your money so do what you want. But when its done don't expect people not to say "I told you so"

My 2 cents

zerotohundred Community Regular

zerotohundred

Posted
Posted
Well now that I've read this from start to finish I'll comment:

To ahjosh - your a knob.

To the 34 girl - I think you may need to rethink the numbers, I know you say you have done "alot" of research and Im not doubting that. What I am doubting is the ability of a stroked 2.5L engine being able to produce 750Hp with a supercharger.

Regardless of what you do during this rebuild it simply won't flow enough - and if it does it will last all of about 1 day running 40 psi.

I don't mean any disrespect, but have you seen anyone get near these results with an RB25? or RB27? Best I've heard of is about ~200kw

At the end of the day - your car and your money so do what you want. But when its done don't expect people not to say "I told you so"

My 2 cents

totally agree with u on the fact tht ahjosh is a knob and the chick... but u can take a rb25 is capable of just more than ~200kw. im currently puttin gout 250rwkw....

but yea... 500kw even after increasing to 2.7L is just a joke.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
totally agree with u on the fact tht ahjosh is a knob and the chick... but u can take a rb25 is capable of just more than ~200kw. im currently puttin gout 250rwkw....

but yea... 500kw even after increasing to 2.7L is just a joke.

he's referring to using a supercharger...

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted
RB25's can make a shedload more than 200rwkw - has been proven many times, just not with superchargers...

there's a difference in the exponential power that a turbo makes and the linear power that a supercharger works. Also due to the supercharger's direct attachment to the engine (wheras a turbo works independently off the exhaust) there's a loss incurred. So just because a turbo can let an RB25 make more than 200 easily, doesn't mean a supercharger's gonna be just as easy.

Neuroglider Mentor

Neuroglider

Posted
Posted

just regarding the rb motor..i can't double check, but isn't there a few 1000hp skylines? what engines were they using? probably would be helpful looking up what exactly they did

R33_Dude Rising Star

R33_Dude

Posted
Posted (edited)

Getting the horsepower from a supercharger isn't the problem. Getting the horsepower from a low compression engine to turn the supercharger to begin with will be a problem.

Maybe I should get all of my engineering/car manual stuff out and write up a FAQ on superchargers. It sure would stop a lot of speculation... Hell I'm going to do it.

EDIT: Oh and superchargers don't neccessarily make linear power gains. Centrifugal superchargers have a somewhat similar power curve to a turbo due to their design. Hell don't worry I'll write this FAQ up and be done with it.

Edited by R33_Dude
SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted

It's not hard to tell that no-one has done any real research into it.... 2 seconds of RB supercharger kit found one to suit an RB30 off the shelf.

Castlemain Rod shop do a SC14 kit for an RB30. I'm sure you could use that kit and modify the outlet pipe to suit the NEO. As for wasting cash, a complete kit cost $2400. Easy.

Here's the link

So now go do it.

Modena Grand Master

Modena

Posted
Posted
Ok so lets just say that "hyperthiticly" I'm considering supercharging my r34 skyline as im on my p's,will a sc14 supercharger make enough difference to bother with and would it be hard to hide,I'd plan on setting up a hiden on/off button so i can use it when im on the track and then turn it of for daily driving :)

What will i need? other then the supercharger and do i need to add anything,would i be able to do it myself without any hasel's?

Stick to NA on Ps and turbos on full licence.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...