Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh i was joking around mate. But it would be cool if you did do that!

Its common to find awd people annoyed when a rwd car shows them how its done. Good work on that mate!

Well there are a few engine mods in progress, and some ancillary mods also. Moved the wastegate to collect from the ex housing, and some dry sump pump/gear mods. Had to rebuild the pump again after the last blow up. Most of it is just to help fix silly problems weve put up with for a while. Other things to make sure parts are running correctly. But we will see how it all goes at this next track day we attend.

We are looking forward to running the car again and it hopefully not blowing up!

  • Replies 277
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Simon, this the same motor i think it is?

got any shots of it assembled? and congrats on the purchase.

Hi Chris,

Yes this is the same motor just without your exquisite 34 red cam covers :(

No it's still in sydney, ( go and have a look!) i've been so time poor, even if the engine was here it'd still be sitting on an engine stand :D

Purchase? You mean the GTR?? Got it home Sunday night after a longish drive to Brissy.

the car itself has a few oil issues - front crank seal and rear main seal as well as a number of suspension bushes etc. Was supposed to have an N1 block but its the standard 05U stamped on the side. Can't confirm the internals, could very well be standard, so this 2630 may very well still find it's way into the GTR yet!

I'm going to have a chat with Kyle re the twin scroll option but still have the 2530's as number 1 option

Hi Chris,

Yes this is the same motor just without your exquisite 34 red cam covers :D

No it's still in sydney, ( go and have a look!) i've been so time poor, even if the engine was here it'd still be sitting on an engine stand :D

Purchase? You mean the GTR?? Got it home Sunday night after a longish drive to Brissy.

the car itself has a few oil issues - front crank seal and rear main seal as well as a number of suspension bushes etc. Was supposed to have an N1 block but its the standard 05U stamped on the side. Can't confirm the internals, could very well be standard, so this 2630 may very well still find it's way into the GTR yet!

you're shitting me :P

i should organise to go have a chat to him, i know time poor for sure. but re: the stand, it would be anyway until you choose a car for it :D

26/30 in GTR, rebuild the 26 for the 4 door

you're shitting me :(

i should organise to go have a chat to him, i know time poor for sure. but re: the stand, it would be anyway until you choose a car for it :)

26/30 in GTR, rebuild the 26 for the 4 door

Yep, he was supposed to bring it up back in late January... but its still there :( To be honest i haven't had anytime to do anything with it but it's getting very close now.

The 4 door is going to make way for the GTR, the 26 seems quite strong, but i'm still deciding what to do with it. I may just keep the 25 in the Sil80, sell the 26 and drop the 26/30 into the GTR :)

That oven of yours still working overtime?

Yep, he was supposed to bring it up back in late January... but its still there :) To be honest i haven't had anytime to do anything with it but it's getting very close now.

The 4 door is going to make way for the GTR, the 26 seems quite strong, but i'm still deciding what to do with it. I may just keep the 25 in the Sil80, sell the 26 and drop the 26/30 into the GTR :)

That oven of yours still working overtime?

tough choices hey :P

oven, yeah its flat out as always :) it time to move up in the world with it though ;)

tough choices hey :)

oven, yeah its flat out as always :) it time to move up in the world with it though ;)

Apparently the engine should be here in a little over a week....

I can't wait to get it back and take some finished pics, of course they'll show off the magnificent R34 red cam covers :(

Have almost convinced myself the 26/30 will go into the GTR.

Do you happen to have a build log on the sileighty?

I've got my RB26 in the shed now, complete with broken bottom end. Thinking about going 30 bottom end (stock) to keep the dream alive til I get money to build a quality bottom end.

I'd like to know what sumps we can use in our S13s, and also what else did you need to do to get the RB in place? I grabbed a tape measure, and it looks like I can't fit thermos between engine and radiator..

Do you happen to have a build log on the sileighty?

I've got my RB26 in the shed now, complete with broken bottom end. Thinking about going 30 bottom end (stock) to keep the dream alive til I get money to build a quality bottom end.

I'd like to know what sumps we can use in our S13s, and also what else did you need to do to get the RB in place? I grabbed a tape measure, and it looks like I can't fit thermos between engine and radiator..

I do but it's really old and all thepics are on another computer, the RB has been on the car since 2001. Car was standard, came with a CA18auto, i removed that and fitted and RB20, that was 8 years ago, i removed that and built the current RB25, that' s been in the car since around 2004/5

I guess you're asking what's required to fit an RB into an S13?

There's lots of info on nissnsivlia.com do a search, but short version R32 cross member and then everything else slots straight in. That's the short version.

Standard sump just need a front ARB to clear it, i use a whiteline item.

i can provide the rundown. doing it now. r33 turbo x member with r33 turbo brackets and rb20 or rb30 mounts (or any other 40mm or smaller, im making custom solid mounts anyway ) this setup is the lowest combo. (mine is a 26/30 so i need it to be low as possible)

you will read somewhere that people use r33 x member and rb20 engine brackets. they are using r33 non turbo member so dont get confused and its not lower anyway just bad information. the r33 turbo x member and brackets sit flat and the non turbo x member sits on an angle like the 32 x member.

also, if you use an a31, r32 or r33 non turbo x member. The rb30 engine brackets are identical to the a31, 32 or r33 non turbo brackets except the hole is not offset and they will sit the motor back another 5-10mm.

using a 25 box you will need rb25 tailshaft yoke welded on the end of a manual s13 tailshaft (no need to shorten it) although i think you can break the uni joint and join it there (not sure as i have not done that yet) you need to customise the gearbox mount bracket

using a 20box you can pop the manual tailshaft straight in. you need the gearbox mount with 'c' stamped in it i think.

  • 1 month later...
tough choices hey :P

oven, yeah its flat out as always :laugh: it time to move up in the world with it though :laugh:

**UPDATE**

Apparently the engine is on its way to Brisbane, but i'll believe that when it arrives.

The engine in the GTR developed a knock a few months ago driving home :laugh: Not sure what, until it's pulled apart. So that decided for me.

Bought the adaptor plate and the 26/30 will go into the GTR :bunny:

Have some dash 5's on order, should be a good match. Don't expect it to be in the car for a few months, but $$ poor at the moment

  • 1 month later...

**UPDATE**

The 26 is now out of the car, awaiting it's new heart. After a really really long wait, the 26/30 is supposed to be leaving Sydney on Monday. I know i've said that before but it's very frustrating when you can't control what is and isn't happening...

Bought the -5's in the end and am very keen to see how they match with the 3 litre.

Sourcing a twin plate clutch as the Nismo twin plate the car was supposed to have is a single of an unknown brand :)

More money but i am confident it'll be worth it in the end. Gearbox is getting a recondition with new synchro's while it's out as well.

Really looking forward to getting back into the GTR. Didn't have it for long before the engine had a lean out and one of the bearings had a sad. Rest seems fine, need to decide whether to sell it or recondition it and put it to one side in case the 25 in the Sil80 ever has any drama's....

Am keeping the standard manifolds, just a light port and ceramic coating for them, the Xforce dumps will also get a coating as will the exhaust housing of the -5's.

Other than that, it should be going in a few weeks.....whenever shanef decides to make that sump adaptor for me!!

I don't believe it but the engine has arrived. Seems longer than 8 months since i was screwing it together.

Clutch off getting some new innards, still waiting on the adaptor plate and the bits have been sent for ceramic coatings to be applied. Hopefully have it running in 2-3 weeks.

I'm off out of the country first week in October for a week or so so hopefully it'll be ready to start when i get back.

Here's a pic of then engine after i'd opened the crate it came in...Still to fit the valley covers GTR label but at least it's here :)

post-3168-1253426542_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...