Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lads,

Had a search no info i could find..

Looking at Nengun and various others places for a possible replacement of my r34 SMIC on my r33.

Question is are ARC SMIC a good options as opposed to going front mount. This i wont be doing as i do not wish to cut holes etc required for installation and the aim is to keep to the car looking factory.

Anyone used these before? They are expensive by the looks of it but im not fussed if it is a decent performing product.

Ive decided to not go berserk with upgrades not sure how long ill have the car. Also searching for a decent Electronic Boost Controller to run around 10psi (rather not be replacing turbos either) and a tuning option without going powerfc etc. Around 200kW or so is the aim.

Current got 169.8 kw atw with a r34 smic, 3inch nismo exhaust and front split dump pipe, K&N Highflow Panel. Stock boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/
Share on other sites

i've got an ARC sidemount in mine at the moment, theyre good coolers imo. slightly larger than the stock SMIC, and about twice as thick (the 100mm model)

running about 195rwkw with stock rb25 gear, ARC smic, 12psi with a turbotech bleed valve, 3" exhaust and remapped ECU

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4570807
Share on other sites

please check the temperature of the inlet and outlet after a few minutes of a trash run on your ARC SMIC

i would be interested in the in and out temps being a SMIC in the side mount location.

the main issue is airflow, an intercooler needs as much as possible to be of any useful purpose.

on a FMIC smack bang in the middle, the turbo side will be too hot to touch after a trash run

and the plenum side will be stone cold. this is how an intercooler should perform.

the issue here isnt power, as it will make power on a dyno no problems

the issue arises when you trash the pants off it on the street non-stop

and then its heatsoaked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4570928
Share on other sites

the JJR stealth cooler kit doesnt require holes to be cut AFAIK so that might be another option

i looked into this but it seems u still gotta cut your reo bar which isnt roadworthy, and also a bit from your front bar which isnt a big deal at all but still. and also ive heard users say the return pipe scrapes curbs if your not careful.

i also thought of getting a good smic but i just cant see it cooling that well, specially on a hot day

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4571650
Share on other sites

the side mounts actually get pretty good airflow as they are ducted. being sealed in a duct they get great flow through the core. the fmics are usually just in the front with lots of air gaps around them. they do work well, but so do the smic. the ARC is a great core. probably a bit overpriced new for what they are, but second hand they can be had for reasonable money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574781
Share on other sites

Whats wrong with your R34 GTT SMIC?

They are good for over 200 kW's...

Quote - "Current got 169.8 kw atw with a r34 smic, 3inch nismo exhaust and front split dump pipe, K&N Highflow Panel. Stock boost."

You've still got a bit of room you can push the power out with the R34 GTT SMIC...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574809
Share on other sites

again im not doubting power etc, im doubting the ability to reduce the intake temperature

even without an intercooler you could make 200rwkw on a single dyno run

it proves nothing, other than a single max power figure at a given RPM

on the street under repeated excessive load is where the difference will matter

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574872
Share on other sites

please check the temperature of the inlet and outlet after a few minutes of a trash run on your ARC SMIC

i would be interested in the in and out temps being a SMIC in the side mount location.

the main issue is airflow, an intercooler needs as much as possible to be of any useful purpose.

on a FMIC smack bang in the middle, the turbo side will be too hot to touch after a trash run

and the plenum side will be stone cold. this is how an intercooler should perform.

the issue here isnt power, as it will make power on a dyno no problems

the issue arises when you trash the pants off it on the street non-stop

and then its heatsoaked

again im not doubting power etc, im doubting the ability to reduce the intake temperature

even without an intercooler you could make 200rwkw on a single dyno run

it proves nothing, other than a single max power figure at a given RPM

on the street under repeated excessive load is where the difference will matter

Iam not too sure what your trying to say...

Are you trying to ask if an ARC SMIC intercooler will prove just as good if not better cooling then the R34 GTT SMIC..?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574915
Share on other sites

i think he's saying, dont waste your time with a side mount. theyre too small, get heatsoaked, and dont cool efficiently on the street.

i agree

the problem with using a thicker core smic to increase volume is that the thicker you go, the less efficient it is. its coz the air trying to cool the core is getting too hot by the time it passes that deep.

if the r34 smic isnt enough, go with a front mount. the benefit of the front mount is the larger front surface area. it can dissipate the heat much better. you will see how cool it remains after a good hard run compared to a smic that will be really fkn hot. that pretty much tells the whole story. ive had both, r34 smic with shroud, and fmic, and that's how it was for me.

but thats just my opinion

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574938
Share on other sites

i think he's saying, dont waste your time with a side mount. theyre too small, get heatsoaked, and dont cool efficiently on the street.

i agree

the problem with using a thicker core smic to increase volume is that the thicker you go, the less efficient it is. its coz the air trying to cool the core is getting too hot by the time it passes that deep.

if the r34 smic isnt enough, go with a front mount. the benefit of the front mount is the larger front surface area. it can dissipate the heat much better. you will see how cool it remains after a good hard run compared to a smic that will be really fkn hot. that pretty much tells the whole story. ive had both, r34 smic with shroud, and fmic, and that's how it was for me.

but thats just my opinion

Yeah right!

I see your point, thanks!

True what you said as the FMIC.

So Mattw 83 wants to run 10 psi after he gets his Boost Controller, would he be pushing the limits of the R34 GTT SMIC and it will get very hot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4574972
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

once the intercooler is heatseaked, this simply JUST reduces its output? No ill affects to components beyond that?

Ill be running 12psi (switchable) by the end of today new eboost being installed and dynoed this arvo ), hopefully she'll hold up...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4597778
Share on other sites

I was running a Trust smic (a little bigger than the R34) with a GCG turbo at around 200AWKW. Worked well including track days. people are running R34 smic with 200-210AWKW no problem. The ARC unit would be better but in my opinion you are fine with the R34 unit (if you didin't have the ducting make one up).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268167-r33-gts25t/#findComment-4599086
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...