Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
you CAN fit te37's with good offset on a gtst, you just have to work the guards a bit.... not a widebody kit, just a roll/flare and its done

easy 18x10 +12 fit... and with te's you really dont need any more dish than that

Any photos of this??? would be interesting to see :) ... also does anyone have some photos of big wheels with flared guards (standard guards)

Since the R33 has a curvy character and i think (purely subjective) that the more squarey shaped wheels e.g. TE37's, LMGT4's, even XD9's don't bring out the best in the car, they suit boxier shapes like R32s and R34s. Rims with sharp ends like Buddy Club P1's, Work Emotion KR Cai's, even BBS styles would better suit the curvy nature of R33s

Hope you don't mind Vu, but i think your R33 converts non-believers haha

post-55803-1251177812_thumb.jpg

Same goes with Silvia S15's

post-55803-1251176638_thumb.jpg

Danny

Edited by squareznboxez
  • 2 weeks later...
+ another one for P1s....

They rock. Simple and clean shape. They suit the R33 as a 90's era car by respecting it. Too be honest I'm kind of opposed to the whole 'mod movement where guards are rolled/flared etc.....it's brutalising the intended design of the car. In 20 years time the original car as an 'era design' will look x10 better than the highly cosmetically modded stuff of today. They will be like faded tatts or the embarresing haircuts you had years ago.

What size are those P1's BTW? 17"

Edited by Battery_backup
They rock. Simple and clean shape. They suit the R33 as a 90's era car by respecting it. Too be honest I'm kind of opposed to the whole 'mod movement where guards are rolled/flared etc.....it's brutalising the intended design of the car. In 20 years time the original car as an 'era design' will look x10 better than the highly cosmetically modded stuff of today. They will be like faded tatts or the embarresing haircuts you had years ago.

What size are those P1's BTW? 17"

Yeah... the best performance size good old 17 inch =D

Width and offset?

forgot... ill check tomrorw since im taking off my rims to do my rotors and brake pads...

how about advans on a r33? look good dont you think?

IMG_90361.jpg

P1's do look great on 33's.

Not a huge fan of any 3 spoke wheel, but those look alright I'm guessing because they're black.

I'm not either. They look a bit weak and insubstantial. I wonder if they are more prone to buckling etc?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...