Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A recent thread of someone wanting a 300k speedo for a stagea got me started on this

It is possible to recalibrate the factory speedo to read up to 300 or 320 opposed to the factory 180k/hr

I have contacted Otto Instruments in Brisbane and they can perform the work. The cost will be approx $75.

You will have to send your speedo to them and they can do the work the same day. Takes approx 1 hour

I asked about a change over setup, but they would have to reset/adjust the odometer reading for each car which will cost more

The next problem is new dial faces for the speedo. To get these made can/could be very expensive to get Stagea specific ones made. It might be possible to to use R33 or silvia dials commonly sold on ebay etc. There are some for Stagea's on Yahoo auctions japan, but sure if they read to 300k/hr. Will need to research this part.

C34 Series 1 stagea's have black/grey faces and series 2 have white/silver faces. If I find a source for these, they will be white.

If the whole lot can be done for approx $150, who would be interested. If I can good numbers I will try to get these sorted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268988-who-would-want-a-300320khr-speedo/
Share on other sites

I want one! I believe they are available in Japan (Dolphin?) but so far I have had no luck tracking one down. As a matter of fact i have a spare speedo cluster i could send away to be done.

I want one! I believe they are available in Japan (Dolphin?) but so far I have had no luck tracking one down. As a matter of fact i have a spare speedo cluster i could send away to be done.

No need to get the dolphin one as it will cost over $600+

I have just spoke to a aftermarket dial face supplier and sent of some pics for him to work with

He is going to do a design over the week end and provide a price. His current models for other cars sell for approx $70 set.

So the target of $150 with the calibration done should be achievable.

Having a think about this speedo - the main thing that you need people to sign up for is the dial face as presumably there will be some set up costs and say 20 would be cheaper (each) than 3 off. So that is where the group buy comes in and i guess you will need money up front. There was a previous proposal for a full set of dials that glow in the dark or something (don't know what happened to that) but for my part I want the dial to look as near stock as possible. If you go for 320km/hr max that will suit everyone ( I only know of one Stagea that will get anywhere near that but at least it should do the job for any level of mods or repowers).

The other bit, recalibrating the speedo will probably be the same price for one or more. In fact Jaycar do a kit that will recalibrate the speedo by up to 99% so that would do the job for those keen enough and able to build the kit. On the other hand i am pretty sure an instrument shop in Auckland here can do the job ( and probably in various Australian cities) so I am really just after the dial face.

  • 1 year later...
A recent thread of someone wanting a 300k speedo for a stagea got me started on this

It is possible to recalibrate the factory speedo to read up to 300 or 320 opposed to the factory 180k/hr

I have contacted Otto Instruments in Brisbane and they can perform the work. The cost will be approx $75.

You will have to send your speedo to them and they can do the work the same day. Takes approx 1 hour

I asked about a change over setup, but they would have to reset/adjust the odometer reading for each car which will cost more

The next problem is new dial faces for the speedo. To get these made can/could be very expensive to get Stagea specific ones made. It might be possible to to use R33 or silvia dials commonly sold on ebay etc. There are some for Stagea's on Yahoo auctions japan, but sure if they read to 300k/hr. Will need to research this part.

C34 Series 1 stagea's have black/grey faces and series 2 have white/silver faces. If I find a source for these, they will be white.

If the whole lot can be done for approx $150, who would be interested. If I can good numbers I will try to get these sorted

So is this still happening or are the faces now available? What came of this? I am very interested in a speedo thats above 180kmh! (although i would want a series 1 black face)

What do i need to do, who do i contact...etc

I think that was my recent thread that sparked the discussion :banana:

Im interested in this Darrin.

The dolphin units aren't being produced any more, only 2 left in stock at Dolphin as of 3months ago maybe none now.

$1300 approx landed in Aus.

ps. just missed out on a nismo one with lcd screen a month ago, went for $1300 approx on the auctions.

Edited by Stagea_Neo
  • 5 months later...

OK I have had some 300km/hr dials made. They are for S1 Stagea. I imagine they would fit S2 (but they would be the wrong colour). They are printed on a self adhesive material - just peel of the backing and stick them on your old dial (or you could cut out the shape in something else if you want to preserve your old dial). As it says earlier in this thread you will then have to sort out one of two methods for getting them to read correctly. The pic is of my spare cluster. My car is still (:/ ) in a workshop so I can't show you the night time view. When I can I will put up an ad in the for sale section. If you can't wait you can get one now for AU$35 posted. I only got 10 made so 9 left!

PS if someone is keen you could buy my spare cluster and either use it as an exchange one or take turns to put it in your car while your own is getting modified (if you don't go the Jaycar way):

http://www.trademe.c...px?id=362354726

004-1.jpg

005-1.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...